Garden Shears: specifications, types

This tool in most cases is manual and mechanical, requiring physical impact. However, at the turn of 2021 and 2022, battery versions began to appear, simplifying work. Most of the tools below can be either mechanical or cordless. More details about them:

- Secateurs. A fairly simple and easy-to-use garden tool designed for cutting branches, small shoots on the crowns of trees, shrubs, harvesting grapes and solving other similar problems. Outwardly similar to scissors and can be used either with two hands or with one, depending on the design. Secateurs can have different lengths of handles and blades, as well as the configuration of the working part. The classic model consists of two blades - a support blade and a working blade. The first serves to securely fix the branch or shoot during work, as well as to prevent the branch from jumping to the side after cutting. To cut large branches with a size of 3-4 cm, the pruning shears are reinforced with long handles and a ratchet mechanism.

— Scissors. Garden shears already have two blades in the working area and are used for trimming thin branches, stems, grass, etc. They are characterized by straight blades and an extremely simple design. They may vary in the shape of the blades, the type of cutting edge, as well as the length and size of the handle. For example, scissors with a serrated or wavy edge are go...od because the branches and shoots being cut do not slide along the blade; these are often used for trimming climbing plants. And if you need to deal with particularly thick and durable shoots, then garden shears with a serrated blade are suitable for this task.

- Lopper. Garden tool for cutting branches and knots. As with pruning shears, the working area has a sharpened blade and a stop. But at the same time, the product is distinguished by long handles (usually from 30 cm to 90 cm) and allows you to work with vegetation located on the lower branches of the tree. The handles form a lever, so it is important to hold them with both hands. The tool is convenient for processing trees with a dense crown, cutting branches of thorny bushes, etc.

- Height cutter. A special type of garden tool, mainly intended for processing tree crowns or trimming fruit branches without the use of a ladder or stepladder. The product is distinguished by elongated telescopic handles - from 1 to 4 m, thanks to which the customer can work while standing on the ground. A special mechanism is built into the handle that allows you to control the decisive tool. Often, pole saws are equipped with saw blades.

— Vaccination. A tool for making special cuts necessary for scion and rootstock in the process of grafting trees. It is characterized by the presence of a figured knife, with which sLR cuts are made. Different types of grafting pruners can be equipped with blades of different configurations, and in universal models one working blade can easily be replaced by another. Different blade shapes are necessary to graft different types of trees. The advantages include the fact that with the help of this tool the process of grafting shoots is greatly simplified and accelerated. On the other hand, grafting pruners are only effective if the shoots are approximately the same size, otherwise you will have to use a knife.

— One-handed. Tools designed to be held in one hand while working. Thus, the second hand remains free, which is important in some situations — for example, when working at height, when you need to hold on to something just in case. Another advantage is portability: the tool is light and compact, many models can be easily carried in your pocket. The main drawback of the one-handed design is the relatively small force on the blades and, accordingly, the low efficiency when working with thick branches. Because of this, models with a maximum cutting diameter of more than 25 mm are extremely rare among such tools. The same applies to high cutters — for them, a two-handed layout is technically more convenient.

— Two-handed. Models designed to be held with two hands during operation. Usually, these are rather large instruments with long handles; the latter allows you to achieve high force on the blades and even cope with fairly thick branches without problems. The specific thickness limitation may, of course, vary; however, for example, all loppers are by definition two-handed. The disadvantages of this design are considered primarily bulky and rather significant weight, but they are offset by high efficiency. But a more critical point may be that during operation both hands of the user are busy: this, in particular, makes it difficult to work in an unstable position, especially at height.

Instruments that initially allowed left-handed use. These can be both specialized instruments, originally created for the left hand, and "two-handed" models that are equally well suited for both right-handers and left-handers. Anyway, this feature in our catalog is indicated only if the suitability for left-handers is expressly claimed by the manufacturer.

The design of the drive used in the pole saw (see "Type").

The drive is a flexible or rigid rod that transfers force from the user's hands to the blades of the tool. At the same time, it is customary to separate such thrusts not by flexibility / rigidity, but by location, the options can be as follows:

— Internal. The drive located inside the handle (bar) of the pole saw. This design provides excellent protection for the mechanism of the tool: the likelihood of moving parts coming into contact with branches and other foreign objects is minimized. Pole saws with this type of drive are by definition equipped with rods (see below) and can be used out of the box, unlike outdoor models; however, the "native" bar cannot be removed and replaced with another, which can create inconvenience in some situations.

— Outdoor. Drive located outside the pole saw. To be more precise, most of these tools are bits with blades and a drive, which are not equipped with rods at all. This creates additional hassle in preparation for work. On the other hand, the user can choose the bar at his discretion and, if necessary, easily change it; and if necessary, even an ordinary wooden stick, like a mop handle, can play the role of a rod.

The largest diameter (thickness) of a branch that the tool can handle.

The larger the maximum cut diameter, the more powerful this model, the lower the likelihood that a certain branch will be too tough for the tool. At the same time, note that to ensure high power, long handles and strong blades are needed, which accordingly affects the dimensions, weight and price. Therefore, it is worth choosing according to this parameter with a certain margin, but at the same time, this margin should not be too large.

As for specific figures, a maximum diameter of 20 mm or less is considered relatively small, but it often turns out to be quite enough for simple work. 21 – 30 mm — the average value, 31 – 40 mm — above average, and in loppers the maximum thickness can exceed 40 mm.

The length of the blades provided in the tool. Usually, the characteristics indicate the working length of the blades — from the tip to the rotary axis.

Both long and short blades have their own specifics, advantages and disadvantages. So, the long length is optimal for working with relatively thin branches: it allows you to cut several of them at a time, and also makes it possible to reach into hard-to-reach places. At the same time, short blades are more compact and provide more force for the same length of handles, which is convenient when working with thick branches. More detailed recommendations on choosing the length of the blades for a specific situation can be found in special sources.

The thickness of the working blades of the tool; indicated by the thickest part, usually in the region of the butt.

It makes sense to pay attention to this parameter if you plan to use a tool for thick branches — from 20 mm or more. At the same time, we note that models with the same maximum cut diameter may have different blade thicknesses. In such cases, the thicker the blade, the better it endures high loads and emergency situations (for example, hitting a hard knot), but the greater the weight and price of the tool as a whole.

The maximum height that the pole saw (see "Type") can reach while standing on the ground, without the use of ladders or other attachments.

This parameter is usually indicated by manufacturers according to the following principle: “the length of the rod plus the height of a person with arms raised” (usually 2–2.5 m is taken for a person’s height). When choosing according to cutting heights, note that more “long-range” tools are usually heavier, bulkier and more expensive than relatively short counterparts. So the headroom does not hurt, but it should not be too large.

It is also worth noting that the cutting height is indicated relatively rarely — mainly in the largest and longest tools, where this figure is 3 m or more. In shorter models, the range can be derived using the already mentioned formula "length plus height of the user with arms raised."

The ability to block the blades while the tool is not in use. Blade locking can be carried out in different ways, but the principle of its operation in all cases is the same: a special mechanism holds the blades in place, preventing them from opening and preventing unwanted contact of the cutting edges with surrounding objects. This provides additional security during storage and transportation.

The presence of a removable blade(blades) in the design of the tool. This feature provides additional convenience and savings. First, the blade is usually more convenient to sharpen and clean by removing it from the tool; secondly, a damaged blade can be replaced with a new one purchased separately — this is cheaper than purchasing a whole new tool.

The ability to adjust the blades of the tool. The specific meaning of this option in different models may be different, it should be clarified separately. So, in some cases we are talking about adjusting the distance between the blades, in others — about the angle of the blades relative to the handles, etc. However, anyway, this feature provides additional options for setting the tool for different situations.

The tool has blades with characteristic wavy cutting edges. Such blades are well suited for relatively thick branches, as well as climbing plants and coniferous shrubs: the bends securely hold the branches during the cutting process, preventing them from slipping. Wavy edges are only available on scissors (see "Type").

The presence of a serrated edge on pruning shears; it is in these instruments (see "Type") that this feature is most often encountered.

One of the advantages of a serrated edge over a classic straight edge is that it prevents slipping. This is especially useful when cutting relatively thin shoots and tall grass. In addition, the blade retains its performance for a long time — even when dull, it almost does not lose its cutting properties. On the other hand, sharpening a jagged edge is a rather complicated and painstaking task; and the cut is less accurate than with straight blades.

The tool has a special spring that opens the blades. Thus, the user only has to apply force to close the blades during the cutting process; to open them, it is enough to relax the hand, allowing the return spring to perform its function. This noticeably speeds up and simplifies the work, especially when you have to make many small and frequent movements — for example, when cutting numerous small shoots. At the same time, the power of the spring is low, and its resistance when closing the blades is almost imperceptible against the background of the overall cutting force. And so that the blades and handles of the tool do not diverge during storage and transportation under the action of a spring, a special lock is provided in the design.

Devices intended primarily for cutting flowers on dense hard stems (for example, roses). The fixing cheeks have the form of special protrusions on both halves of the blades and work as follows: when the blades converge, cutting the stem, the cheeks also close, holding the cut flower and preventing it from falling. This is especially convenient when working in hard-to-reach places where it is difficult to reach with both hands at once: with one hand you can cut the plant and keep it from falling to the ground.

The ability to adjust the length of the handles or the width of their disclosure on the tool, adjusting it to certain situations.

Longer handles at least allow you to reach further and achieve more force on the blade (due to the large length of the lever); shorter ones, in turn, make the tool more compact and manoeuvrable. In these moments, the meaning of this adjustment lies: in cramped conditions, the handles can be shortened, reducing the length of the tool to a minimum, and if there is enough space, lengthen in order to reduce the cutting force and at the same time increase its efficiency.

Note that in some models, in addition to the length, the distance between the handles can also be adjusted — to adjust to the personal characteristics of the user. This point should be clarified separately.

This feature means that one of the handles of the tool is able to rotate around the longitudinal axis. Only single-handed secateurs (see "Type") are equipped with a rotary handle, and the purpose of such a device is to optimize the position of the handle during work. The fact is that when working with one hand, the user's fingers not only squeeze the handles, but in fact also try to turn one of them; so that the handle, which can be rotated, does not slip under the fingers. This provides added convenience and minimizes the chance of blisters.

The presence of a ratchet mechanism in the tool — a device known colloquially as a "ratchet". The principle of operation of such a mechanism is as follows: the blades of the tool can move in compression, but the reverse movement (in opening) is blocked by a gear wheel with a stop dog. This makes it easier to cut thick hard branches: the cut can be carried out in several stages, at each of them pressing the blades a few millimetres and not being afraid that they will move back. This way of working will be especially appreciated by users who do not have great hand strength. And in order to open the blades after cutting, you need to either unclench the handles with force, or vice versa, squeeze them all the way.

The presence of a loop for the fingers in the design of the tool. Such a loop is used in one-handed tools: it is usually installed on one of the handles, four fingers are threaded into it, opposing the thumb. Such a device provides additional convenience and reliability in holding the tool (reduces the likelihood of letting it out of hand), and also provides some protection from branches and other foreign objects.

Modern cordless pruning shears can be supplied with or without a battery ; Moreover, in the first case, a different number of batteries may be provided (1 pc or 2 pcs), or even a built-in power source. It is also worth noting that models with a removable battery usually do not use any original batteries, but universal solutions for power tools from the same manufacturer. The advantage of this design is obvious: first of all, it facilitates the search for power sources, including in addition to or as a replacement for “original” batteries. Here is a more detailed description of specific configuration options:

- 1 PC. Devices supplied with just one replaceable battery. This package may seem almost ideal: the tool can be used immediately after purchase, and when purchasing you do not have to overpay for a second power source. This configuration is designed mainly for two situations. The first is when the tool is planned to be used for short-term work, i.e. it is possible to take significant breaks to charge the battery; the second - if the household already has at least one spare battery, so there is no point in buying a model with 2 batteries.

- 2 pcs. The presence of a second battery inevitably affects the cost, but in many cases this point is more than offset by the additional ease of use. Firstly, two batteries allow you to work longer without interru...ptions - in fact, autonomy is doubled. Secondly, while one battery is in use, the second one can be kept on charge; This allows you to minimize charging breaks, or even get rid of them altogether. Thirdly, the breakdown or loss of one power source does not interfere with work - it is enough to install a second one. And fourth, the spare battery may be useful for another compatible power tool.

- Without battery. The most popular option in principle is battery powered. Along with the obvious inconvenience - the tool cannot be used out of the box - this package has a number of significant advantages. First of all, the customer can choose the model and number of batteries at his own discretion, without relying on the manufacturer in this matter. And if there is another battery-powered tool on the farm, then the power source from it may well be suitable for pruning shears; This will completely eliminate the need to spend additional money and time.

- Built-in. The built-in power supply allows you to make such a tool as compact as possible. In addition, the customer does not need to bother with a separate charger - just connect the included cable to charge. On the other hand, a dead battery cannot be quickly replaced with a fresh one - the only option is charging, which requires an energy source and can take a lot of time. Also, this design does not allow you to select batteries at your discretion; and if there are problems with the power supply, you will either have to take the entire device for repairs or replace it with a new one. In light of all this, models with a built-in battery are usually intended mainly for minor home repairs and simple tasks that do not involve long-term work and high loads.

The name of the battery platform supported by the device. A single battery platform is used to combine various power tools of the same brand into one line (screwdriver, grinder, circular saw, etc.). Devices on the same platform use interchangeable batteries and chargers. Thanks to this, for example, there is no need to select a battery for each individual model of a power tool, because one purchased as a spare battery can be used in various power tools, depending on the situation or as needed. Batteries of the same platform basically differ from each other except perhaps in capacity.

The operating voltage of the battery installed in the tool of the corresponding type (see above).

The higher the power, the higher the voltage may be required (but not necessarily required) to power it efficiently. In other words, a high battery voltage is usually indicative of advanced performance, while a low battery voltage is not always a sign of an entry-level tool. On the practical side, this parameter can only be useful for some specific tasks — for example, looking for an external charger for a battery or buying a spare battery. In addition, this parameter must be taken into account when comparing different batteries in terms of capacity (for more details, see "Battery Capacity").

The capacity of the battery supplied with the tool.

Theoretically, the higher the capacity, the more energy the battery accumulates and the longer the tool is able to work on a single charge. In fact, however, two points must be taken into account. Firstly, only batteries with the same voltage can be directly compared in terms of capacity in ampere-hours (if there is a difference in voltage, you need to convert the capacity to watt-hours using a special formula, and use these values already). Secondly, the actual battery life will depend not only on the characteristics of the battery, but also on the power consumption of the device itself; at the same time, the power consumption for battery models is not directly indicated in the characteristics.

Model of the battery originally supplied with the tool.

This information will be useful primarily for finding detailed battery specifications. It also allows you to determine with what other tools you can use the complete battery (recall, construction staplers operate on universal batteries for power tools). As for the search for a power source for a pruner or lopper, here it is worth focus not so much on the model of the “native” battery, but on the list of compatible batteries (see below).

Battery models compatible with the tool.

When choosing a tool, this information is relevant mainly for models without a battery included. For tools that come with batteries, the battery model is more of a reference—it's mostly "for the future" if a spare or replacement battery is needed. However, this data can also be useful in the selection process — for example, to assess compatibility with an existing battery on the farm, or to find detailed data on compatible batteries and determine how they meet your requirements (in particular, there are formulas that allow you to determine the time of continuous operation from a specific battery; these formulas can be found in special sources).

— Plastic. Relatively simple and at the same time quite practical, as a result — a common material. Plastic perfectly resists moisture, almost does not cool hands in cool weather, and is relatively inexpensive. As for strength and reliability, they are generally somewhat lower than those of metals, and most tools with plastic handles are designed mainly for simple work with relatively low loads. However, there are exceptions — for example, powerful loppers, which use high-quality durable plastic grades for handles. Anyway, for additional convenience, handles made of this material are often supplemented with rubber pads.

— Steel. The key advantage of steel is its high strength, which makes it possible to use this material even in the most powerful tools designed for thick branches. Compared to another metal — aluminium — steel weighs a little more, but costs less. For additional resistance to corrosion and ease of holding, steel handles can be coated with paint or equipped with additional overlays, most often of rubber or plastic.

— Aluminium. Another metal used for handles is along with steel. Aluminium differs from it, on the one hand, in lower weight and better resistance to corrosion, on the other hand, in higher cost. However, the difference in price is not so great, so these handles are also very popular. They can also be equipped with various overlay...s for added convenience.

— Tree. "Classic of the genre", not out of use today. The wood is pleasant to the touch, does not cool hands in cool weather and looks good. In terms of reliability, this material is comparable to plastic: it is inferior to steel and aluminium, but it is quite applicable even in fairly powerful tools. The unequivocal disadvantages of wood include poor resistance to scratches and chips. Because of this, accidental contact with sharp objects can lead to the appearance of chips, fraught with splinters. In addition, this material does not tolerate constant contact with moisture, and it is advisable to store a tool with wooden handles in a dry place. Note that for a number of reasons, the tree is used mainly in one-handed tools.

The material from which the additional overlays for the tool handle are made. Most often, this material differs from the material of the handle itself (see above), but there are exceptions — for example, additional plastic lining on the plastic handle. Anyway, the most popular types of materials are as follows:

— Rubber. Convenient, practical and inexpensive, and therefore — an extremely popular material. Secure to hold and at the same time relatively soft, making it great for both plastic and metal handles: rubber grips do not slip in the hand, do not cool the skin in cool weather and provide additional comfort due to the softness. The disadvantages of rubber include poor scratch resistance and a slightly higher cost than another popular option — plastic. However, in general, these shortcomings cannot be called critical.

— Plastic. Another fairly popular material, widely used primarily with steel and aluminium handles. Plastic provides a secure hold, it does not slip in the hand like metal; in addition, such pads are not afraid of moisture and can also play the role of additional protection against corrosion. However plastic is harder than rubber and somewhat less reliable and durable; On the other hand, it also costs much less.

— Wood. A material rarely used, mainly with metal (steel) handles. The tree is very attractive in terms of convenience: it is pleasant to the touch, does not cool the hands and almost does not slip. On the other hand, su...ch pads are less reliable than rubber or plastic ones, they do not tolerate moisture (the material can swell and warp) and contact with sharp objects (slivers can form, threatening splinters). So it makes sense to specifically look for wooden handles, first of all, if you are a principled adherent of the classics.

— Cork. The cork does not slip in the hands and perfectly absorbs moisture, thanks to which it is securely held in the hands. In addition, this material is soft and elastic, which gives additional convenience and comfort. At the same time, compared to the same rubber, cork is less durable: it is relatively easily damaged and, without special care, quickly absorbs dirt, which can cause it to lose its “presentation” and then its working properties. As a result, cork overlays are extremely rare — in some models of garden tools.

The presence of a saw nozzle on the tool — a device in the form of a small toothed blade that plays the role of a saw. With the help of such a nozzle, you can effectively cope even with large thick branches that are “too tough” for traditional blades; the cut is obtained as even and accurate as possible. Note that saw nozzles are mainly equipped with pole saws (see "Type"): at a low height for similar purposes, it is easier to use a traditional hacksaw.

Availability of a bar in a complete set of delivery of the tool.

This feature is relevant mainly for high cutters (see "Type") — a long rod, in fact, allows you to reach the desired height with such a tool. At the same time, models with an intra-hand drive are equipped with rods by definition, but the pole saw with an external drive can be supplied without a rod — in such cases it is assumed that the user will select it himself, depending on his own preferences and the requirements of the situation. For details, see "Pillar Pruner Drive".

The presence of rollers in the design of the tool.

This feature is found in a rather specific variety of garden tools — scissors equipped with long rods like those used in pole cutters. The presence of rollers makes it possible to use such a tool as a manual lawn mower: the working part can be rolled along the ground, and the blades can be controlled using handles on the opposite end of the bar.

A case is included with the instrument. Such cases can be made of both soft and hard materials; the former are more compact, the latter more reliable. Anyway, such an accessory provides additional convenience during storage and transportation: it protects the tool from dirt, moisture and other adverse factors, and the surrounding objects from accidental contact with the blades. Impromptu packaging can also be used for the same purpose, however, complete cases, usually, are much more convenient.