Acoustic Guitars: specifications, types

General type of instrument.

First of all, it is worth noting here that the name "acoustic guitar" nowadays can be used both in a broad sense (to refer to a whole class of instruments) and in a narrow one (to refer to one of the types of such instruments). Acoustic guitars in the broad sense of the word also include classical and electro -acoustic models, as well as more specific instruments — acoustic bass guitars and ukuleles. Here is a detailed description of each of these varieties.

— Acoustic. Speaking about the types of guitars, "acoustic" refers to relatively modern models that differ in design from the "classics" (see below). In terms of capabilities, the main features of such instruments are the ability to use metal strings, as well as a generally louder and more sonorous sound. Externally, acoustic guitars (in the narrow sense of the word) are distinguished primarily by a relatively narrow and long neck, as well as a slightly different bridge design than classical ones; in addition, most models also have a larger case, the shape of which can be very diverse (see "Shape (view)"). This type of guitar can be used for different styles of playing; in this sense, it is more versatile than classical models.

— Classical. Instruments created on the basis of traditional Spanish gu...itars in the 19th century and survived to this day almost unchanged. The classical guitar has a fairly wide neck, as well as a characteristic body shape; this form is actually a standard, so that different models are very similar in outline to each other and externally differ mainly in colour and the presence / absence of a cutout (see "Cutaway" ). The main functional feature of such instruments is the impossibility of working with metal strings — only nylon can be used on the "classic". Due to this, these guitars sound very soft and relatively quiet, as a result — they are poorly suited for aggressive, dynamic chord playing. Therefore, the main purpose of such instruments are classical compositions. Also, this type of guitar is well suited for initial music training: nylon strings do not cut the fingertips as much as metal ones.

— Electroacoustic. Acoustic guitars, supplemented by built-in pickups and, usually, tone blocks (see below for both). This allows not only to use the guitar in a traditional, acoustic format, but also to connect it to an amplifier or other equipment, including to add additional effects to the sound with the help of "gadgets".

— Ukulele. An instrument also known as the ukulele. Outwardly, it really looks very much like a guitar, but it is much smaller. There are usually 4 strings on such an instrument; there are other options — 8 (4 doubles) or 6, as on a regular guitar ("gitalele"), such models are also included in this category. The ukulele has become widespread in the Pacific Islands and has been associated with Hawaiian traditional music from the very beginning, but this is not limited to: almost the same possibilities are available for such instruments as for conventional acoustic guitars.

— Bass. Guitars with a low, bass tone. The classic bass has 4 strings in EADG tuning — similar to the strings of a six-string guitar from third to sixth, but an octave lower; the strings themselves, respectively, are also much thicker. Five-string models are less common, they have a similar tuning principle (see "Number of strings"). Outwardly, many basses are distinguished by long and narrow necks, although this is not strictly necessary. A special case is a fretless bass: such an instrument has no nut on the fretboard, which expands the possibilities for using various specific methods of sound production, but requires special accuracy when placing fingers. Anyway, the main use of basses is rhythmic accompaniment, most often in combination with drums; for solo parts, such an instrument is practically not used. Also note that acoustic basses are usually complemented by pickups — similar to the electro-acoustic guitars described above: it is very difficult to sound such an instrument in another way (with an external microphone).

The number of strings used in the instrument.

The traditional option for classical and acoustic guitars (see "Type") is 6 strings. However, in such instruments, and in other varieties, you can also find other options: 4, 5, 7, 8 and even 12 strings. Here is a more detailed description of each of them:

— 4. Traditional number of strings for ukulele and acoustic bass guitars (see "Type"); both there and there, a larger number of strings can be used, however, it is 4 that is considered the “classic of the genre”.

— 5. A variant found in certain models of acoustic bass guitars. 4 classic bass strings in such instruments are supplemented by a fifth, which expands the range of the instrument upwards. The downside is the increased cost of such basses, while an acoustic instrument does not need extended range as often. Therefore, this option is not widely used.

— 6. The most popular number of strings in modern guitars of "ordinary" varieties (acoustic, classical, electro-acoustic — see "Type"). Speaking of such a guitar, by default they mean exactly a six-string instrument. The standard tuning of such models is EADGBE (note that the traditional tuning of bass guitars and some varieties of ukuleles is also based on it).
There are other, muc...h rarer varieties of six-string instruments — gitalele (see "Form (view)"), as well as ukulele with a pair of double strings (usually the second and third).

— 7. Most of the models from this category are the so-called "Russian" seven-string guitars (another name is "gypsy"). They differ from the popular six-strings not only in the number of strings, but also in the tuning — DGBDGBD. As for the sound, it is generally similar, although professional musicians and musicologists consider the seven-string guitar to be a more “smooth” and richer instrument in terms of sound. Such guitars were popular mainly until the end of the 20th century — in particular, it was seven strings that were used by such famous bards as Vladimir Vysotsky and Bulat Okudzhava. However, nowadays, this variety has fallen out of mass use.
Another type of seven-string guitars, even rarer in our area, is “Brazilian”. Such an instrument uses the BEADGBE tuning — that is, in fact, the standard six-string guitar tuning with an additional bass string in tone B (electric guitars with 7 strings are also standard tuned ).

— 12. Modification of a six-string guitar, where 6 pairs of strings are used. The strings within each pair are at a minimum distance from each other and, usually, are tuned in unison or an octave — that is, roughly speaking, they sound together (however, professional guitarists also use more specific tuning options). Such an instrument is mainly used for rhythmic accompaniment: the paired strings are inconvenient for solo parts, but they give a very rich sound in chords and are great for accompaniment. Also note that within the same pair you can use strings of different materials, which gives the sound a special colour.

— 8. Instruments with this number of strings are basically ukuleles, similar in design to the 12-string guitars described above: instead of the traditional 4 strings, 4 pairs of strings are installed in them. The specificity of such instruments is similar — they have a richer and richer sound with accompaniment, but are poorly suited for solo parts.
Another, much rarer variant of 8 strings is six-string guitars, where the middle strings (third and fourth) are made paired. This is a compromise between the 6- and 12-string design, providing a richer sound without significantly complicating the design and increasing its price.

Guitars designed for left-handers — more precisely, for musicians playing with a reverse (left-handed) grip.

The traditional (right-handed) grip involves holding the neck to the left: the left hand is on the frets, the right hand is over the soundboard. Left-handed, respectively — on the contrary. Note that many guitars (for example, classical ones, see "Type") are completely symmetrical in construction, and for left-handed tuning, it is enough to set the strings in reverse order. Therefore, left-handed models in this case include only specialized tools in which asymmetric parts (for example, a cutout or a protective overlay, see below) are installed specifically for a left-handed grip. Such instruments will be appreciated primarily by professional left-handed guitarists.

The presence of a pickup in the design of the guitar.

The pickup allows you to connect the instrument to external equipment — for example, for a concert; it, in accordance with the name, provides sound transmission from the strings to the output (usually through the tone block, see below). By definition, all electric acoustic guitars have this feature, and basses are usually equipped with pickups (see “Type”).

The type of tone block installed in a guitar with a pickup (see above).

The tone block is responsible for processing the signal coming from the pickup before applying this signal to the output of the instrument. Such processing includes at least frequency correction, often also amplification; in addition, it is through the tone block that such functions as a tuner for tuning and an equalizer are implemented (see below). And the types of such blocks can be as follows:

— Active. Tone blocks operating from their own power source (usually a replaceable battery). Such modules are more complicated and more expensive than passive ones, besides, when using them, you need to monitor the condition of the batteries and change them in time. On the other hand, the active operation scheme allows you to implement many advanced functions: high-quality frequency correction, gain, impedance matching with an external amplifier, as well as the equalizer and tuner mentioned above. Thus, most guitars with pickups nowadays are equipped with active tone blocks.

— Passive. Passive tone blocks do not have electronics that require additional power, so they are inexpensive and extremely easy to use. At the same time, the capabilities of such blocks are much more modest: for example, timbre correction in them is carried out only by cutting off “extra” frequencies, and there is no talk of amplification at all. This variant has not been widely used.

The presence in the guitar tone block (see above) of the equalizer function.

The equalizer in this case means the ability to set the volume level for each individual frequency band. This allows you to quite accurately adjust the tone block to the desired sound. Guitar equalizers usually have less than 3 bands (low, medium, high frequencies) — this is quite enough for the initial adjustment (it makes sense to fine-tune the sound already on external equipment).

The presence of a built-in tuner in the guitar tone block (see above).

The tuner is used when tuning the guitar: it “listens” to each string and tells the musician how much the pitch of its sound corresponds to the reference (higher, lower, normal). This equipment greatly simplifies the setup. Tuners can also be produced as external devices, however, the presence of such electronics directly in the tone block is much more convenient: at least, it is always at hand and is not lost. For more details about the features of such devices, see "Tuner" below.

The overall size of the body of the guitar.

This parameter is used to select the instrument according to the personal characteristics of the musician. Even adult guitarists can vary greatly in body type, not to mention children of different ages learning to play the guitar. Accordingly, guitars for different people should have different sizes.

It is customary to indicate the size as a fraction: for example, the largest guitars are indicated as 4/4(full size). A smaller number, accordingly, denotes a smaller case, although the proportion is not strict. For example, the total length of a classical guitar (see "Type") in 4/4 is usually 1 m, and in 3/4 is 885 mm.

The smallest instruments on the market today are 1/8. They, as well as the slightly larger 1/4, are intended for children up to 6 years of age. For the age category of 6 – 9 years, the best tool is 1/2, at 9 – 11 years old — size 3/4, for teenagers and people of petite build, models 7/8 are produced, and full 4/4 are designed for boys and adults of average and large build. At the same time, all these recommendations are rather conditional, and in fact it is worth considering not only age, but also the specific specifics of each person: for example, a 4/4 guitar that has grown up quickly at the age of 13 may be quite suitable.... It is also worth remembering that the shape of the body also significantly affects the dimensions of the guitar (see “Shape (view”)).

The general shape of the body of the guitar.

This characteristic affects both the appearance and dimensions of the instrument, and the features of its sound. Note that for classical guitars (see "Type") the form is often not indicated, since it is standard for such instruments. But other varieties can be very diverse in shape. For example, among the "acoustics" and "electroacoustics" there are such form options as dreadnought (western), jumbo, mini-jumbo, parlor, orchestral, grand auditorium, grand concert, road, resonator. Ukuleles, in turn, are available in soprano, concert, tenor, baritone and bass versions, as well as in the form of a special variety — gitalele. Here is a more detailed description of all these types of housing:

— Dreadnought (Western). One of the most popular types of acoustic guitars. The body has a large shape and very "heavy", angular outlines. The terms "dreadnought" and "western" are often used interchangeably, but sometimes only cutaway guitars are referred to as "westerns" (see below). This shape of the body provides a pronounced bass sound and a “roaring” sound coloring, thanks to which dreadnoughts are well suited for playing chords, but playing solo on su...ch guitars is not very convenient.

— Orchestral model. Orchestral models (Orchestra Model) are somewhat reminiscent of the dreadnoughts described above in shape, but they have more rounded and graceful outlines, in particular, a more pronounced "waist" in the area of the rosette (resonator hole). This allows you to achieve an even distribution of volume between the upper and lower frequencies. In terms of the use of "orchestration" they are the direct opposite of westerns: they are great for playing by brute force and by notes, but on chords they sound noticeably weaker — both due to the lack of bass (especially with an aggressive playing style), and because of the relatively low volume. On the other hand, due to the uniform frequency response, an orchestral guitar can be sounded even at a professional concert with an ordinary microphone.

— Jumbo. The word jumbo means "large", and these cases are indeed quite large. Another distinguishing feature is the shape of the lower part of the soundboard: it can be almost round, and anyway, the outlines of the jumbo body are usually smoother than those of orchestral models, and even more so of dreadnoughts (although there are exceptions). At the same time, this type of cabinet combines the features of the mentioned varieties: the balanced and even sound characteristic of "orchestra" is combined with the volume of the "Western". Because of this, jumbo guitars are generally considered the best choice for musicians who play in a mixed style. However, a lot depends on the specific model: some are closer to dreadnoughts in terms of application, and sometimes the difference between jumbo and western is only in how the manufacturer positions its tool.

— Mini jumbo. A slightly smaller version of the jumbo (see above), with a correspondingly lower volume and richer sound.

— Grand Auditorium. Another versatile type of guitar. It is similar in shape to jumbo (see above) — to the point that the terms "grand auditorium" and "jumbo" (or "mini-jumbo", depending on size) are often used interchangeably.

— Grand concert. An analogue of the grand auditorium described above, somewhat smaller.

— Parlor. Cases of this type are quite compact in size — some of them approach the size of a ukulele — and, most often, a rather small width, but while maintaining a full-size socket. Such instruments were originally popular in the late 19th and first half of the 20th century; today they are appreciated by professionals both for their traditional sound with "historical notes" and for ease of transportation.

— Road. In accordance with the name, such cases are created, among other things, based on ease of transportation. They can have both a traditional shape, close to a dreadnought or jumbo (only smaller), and very specific outlines (for example, triangular, or oval, like a medieval lute).

— Resonator. Six-string guitars, also known as "dobro" (from the name Dobro, given by the creators and later became a trademark). In accordance with the name, to amplify the sound in such instruments, not just a hollow body is used, but a special part — a resonator. This element is installed under the top deck and is covered with a characteristic round-shaped metal cover with slots; the lower nut is placed directly on the lid. "Dobro" are distinguished by a rather loud and sharp sound; in addition, some models have a special neck design that makes it easier to play with a slide. In general, these guitars have a rather narrow niche of application, they are popular primarily among blues and country/bluegrass players.

— Soprano. The smallest variety of ukulele (see "Type"), it is also historically the first and most common. The standard overall length for this tool is 21" (53 cm) at 13" scale (see below). Soprano models have the highest emphasis on high frequencies of all types of ukulele, they are usually tuned in GCEA (from the thickest string to the thinnest).

— Concert. The ukulele is slightly larger than the sopranos described above — 23" in length and 15" in scale. They provide a little more volume of low frequencies, otherwise they are completely similar.

— Tenor. Further, after the concert version, the increase in size of the ukulele is up to 26" in total length (17" in scale). In addition, they differ in tuning: they can be tuned in both GCEA and DGBE (similar to the first 4 strings of a 6-string guitar).

— Baritone. Until relatively recently (before the appearance of "bass" bodies), such instruments were the largest variety of ukulele. The standard overall length of a baritone is 30", the scale is 19"; such an instrument is usually tuned in DGBE tuning (similar to the strings of a 6-string guitar from first to fourth).

— Bass. One of the newest varieties of ukulele: launched on sale only in 2007. It is almost the same size as a baritone — about 30" long, 20" scale — but uses a different tuning, namely EADG (also an analogue of a six-string guitar, in this case corresponding to the fourth through sixth strings).

— Gitalele. A kind of "hybrid" between traditional guitar and ukulele. In fact, these instruments are six-string guitars, made in the size of a ukulele and tuned 2.5 tones higher — the ADGCEA system. At the same time, the fingering, the technique of setting chords and the tuning procedure in the guitarel do not differ from ordinary guitars. Such instruments are also called "six-string ukuleles", but this name can also be applied to classic 4-string ukuleles, where the second and third strings are doubled. So in order to avoid confusion, it is better to use the term "guitalele".

Special cutout on the body of the guitar. It is located at the base of the neck, to the right of it, if you look at the upright guitar from the front (in left-handed models — on the left). This feature makes it much easier to play on the upper frets (located near the rosette): without a cutout, the body would prevent reaching them. Therefore, this feature is highly desirable for guitarists who play notes at high frets (from the 12th and above).

There is an opinion that the cutout negatively affects the acoustics of the guitar (reduces the useful volume of the body, reduces the volume and saturation). However, in most cases, this effect is almost imperceptible, especially since manufacturers often use various tricks to compensate for this effect.

A special protective pad that protects the soundboard from accidental contact with the pick.

The pickguard is usually located at the sound hole below the strings (if the guitar is considered in the standard playing position). With a dynamic, aggressive performance (especially when playing chords), it is in this place that the pick clamped in the hand most often hits; hitting an unprotected body causes damage to the surface of the body, which degrades the appearance and acoustic characteristics of the guitar. Pickguard prevents such damage: such an overlay is usually made of a hard material that is resistant to contact with most picks. Accordingly, the presence of this part is highly recommended if you plan to use the pick extensively when playing.

Note that the protective overlay usually differs in colour from the main material of the deck, due to which it is clearly visible.

Guitar body construction, including both soundboards and sides. For these parts, two main types of wood can be used: solid (solid) and puff (better known as plywood). Plywood is cheaper than solid wood, but loses to it in terms of acoustic properties. Therefore, the type of deck in the characteristics is usually indicated only if solid wood is present in it. However, if data on the deck is not given, this does not mean that the instrument is made entirely of plywood; in addition, it is worth noting that some types of plywood come close to solid wood in terms of acoustic properties. Therefore, without having information on the deck design, it makes sense to focus primarily on the price category of the instrument.

Options for a solid tree can be as follows:

— One piece top. The English name is also used — solid top. We are talking about instruments in which only the upper deck is made of solid wood — the rest of the body is made of plywood. This option is a good compromise between sound quality and affordable price, it is quite popular in mid-range guitars.

— Completely whole. A body in which all parts are made of solid wood — both decks and sides. This is the most advanced option in terms of acoustics — especially since some types of wood even improve over time (provided that it is solid wood). However, a completely one-piece body is quite expensive, so this option is found...mainly in high-end professional instruments.

The material from which the top of the guitar is made is the flat part of the body on which the bridge (see below) and the sound hole are located.

A wide variety of materials are found in modern guitars — from spruce, maple or cedar, which are familiar in our latitudes, to expensive mahogany and “exotics” like bubinga (“African rosewood”) or koa, which grows only in Hawaii. Each material has its own characteristics that affect the sound and other properties of the instrument (for example, appearance and durability). However, the sound of a guitar largely depends on a number of other factors besides the material — the type of instrument, the shape of the body, etc. Therefore, models made of similar materials may well sound noticeably different. In addition, note that expensive woods can be used solely for aesthetic purposes and have no advantages over cheaper materials.

In light of all this, we can say that the data on materials are more of a reference value, and when choosing, it is more likely to focus on more significant characteristics (for example, the same body shape), as well as practical data about the tool (reviews, reviews, audio recordings of the game etc.). Detailed data on materials may be required only by professional musicians, luthier masters, etc.; this information, if desired, can be found in special sources.

The material from which the lower soundboard of the guitar is made is a flat surface on the opposite side from the upper soundboard (it is this surface that is adjacent to the musician's body when the instrument is held normally).

The value of this parameter is described in detail in the “Upper deck” section — what is stated there is also true in this case. We only note that a wider range of materials is used for the lower deck: this part is less demanding on the characteristics of the material, which gives manufacturers additional choice.

In terms of specific materials, rosewood, sapele, maple, meranti and nato, among others, enjoy considerable popularity in modern times. Here is a brief description of each of them:

— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.

— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.

— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is...not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.

— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.

— Nato. A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.

The material from which the side of the guitar is made is the “side” surface of the body, which unites the upper and lower soundboards (see above).

About the meaning of the material of the body, see paragraph "Top deck" — everything stated in it is also true for the shell. Unless the range of materials used for this part is noticeably wider; also note that most often the material of the shell coincides with the material of the bottom deck. Here is a summary of some of the more popular options:

— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.

— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.

— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.

— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.

— Nato.... A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.

The material from which the bridge (string holder) of the guitar is made is a device with which the strings are attached to the top deck.

Theoretically, the colour of the sound of an instrument depends on the characteristics of all its details. However, in the case of the bridge, this influence is so insignificant that the data on the material in this case are more of general reference and advertising than of real practical value. The variety of such materials is quite large; among the most common are rosewood, mongoy and ebony.

The number of frets provided on the neck of the guitar.

The fret is the gap between the two nut on the fretboard. By pressing a finger on the string in this gap, the guitarist changes the pitch of the string: the farther the fret (from the headstock) — the shorter the string is and the higher the sound.

The more frets, the more notes the guitarist can take on each string and the more possibilities the instrument gives. On the other hand, for numerous frets, a fretboard of the appropriate length is needed, which affects the dimensions and cost of the instrument, and sometimes it is simply not justified: for example, ordinary guitars have at least 18 or 20 frets, while among ukuleles (see "Type ”), there are models for 12 – 16 frets.

In general, it makes sense to specifically look for an instrument with numerous frets if you plan to play complex solo parts on it; for playing chords, as well as relatively simple performance by notes, the number of frets does not play a special role.

The type of truss provided in the guitar neck design.

The truss rod is a long metal rod located inside the neck of the guitar (along it). It is designed to provide the desired stiffness and prevent neck distortion due to string tension. This function is relevant for models that use metal strings — primarily acoustic ones (see "Type"); Nylon guitars don't need an anchor.

Often it is possible to adjust the tension force of the anchor — to change the degree of deflection of the neck. This can be useful both for adjusting to the guitarist's preferences and for correcting neck distortion that develops over time.

Note that the lack of information on the anchor does not mean the absence of the latter: some manufacturers simply do not bother to mention it in the basic data on the tool. So in such cases, you can try to find more detailed information on the selected model.

Specific options for the anchor can be as follows:

— Single. An anchor in the form of a single rod is the simplest and most inexpensive option. At the same time, the strength and rigidity of such a rod is sufficient in most cases.

— Double. Twin anchor, consisting of two rods. A pair of rods provides increased strength and reliability compared to a single truss rod, and also provides additional protection against lateral deformations of the fingerboard (deviations to the right / left). At the same time, a double anchor is not cheap, despite the fact...that the described advantages are really important only in professional music, where even the slightest deviations from the reference sound are unacceptable. Therefore, the double anchor is found mainly in premium tools.

— Is absent. The complete absence of an anchor in the design of the neck. Despite the useful properties of this part, its use is far from always justified: for example, the neck can be made of durable and elastic materials that “work” well without additional reinforcement. Another reason for the one-piece construction is that mounting a metal rod disrupts the neck's uniformity and can degrade the instrument's acoustic performance, which can be critical on high-end models. Note that the absence of an anchor is separately indicated only for acoustic guitars and other instruments with metal strings; in "nylon" models, rods are not used by definition, and there is no need to specifically specify its absence.

Scale length of the guitar. The scale in this case is the working part of the string, in other words, the distance from the saddle (on the headstock) to the saddle (on the bridge). In most acoustic and similar guitars, the scale is set during production and is unchanged. Without going into technical details, we can say that the value of this parameter is generally a reference: it allows you to some extent estimate the overall dimensions of the instrument, as well as the size of the frets (the longer the scale, the larger the size of the frets, regardless of their number). However, there is also a practical application: with an adjustable anchor (see above), the scale length data can be useful in the tuning process.

The material from which the neck of the guitar is made — more precisely, the base of the neck (the fretboard can be made from another material). Now the most commonly used materials are: nato, maple and mahogany. For the value of this parameter, see p. "Top deck".

The fingerboard material is the surface directly under the strings. Now the most commonly used materials are: rosewood, mongoy and ebony. For the value of this parameter, see p. "Top deck".

The presence of a combo amplifier in the package of delivery of an acoustic guitar.

The combo amplifier helps to emphasize all the "overtones" and features of acoustic sound production. Unlike similar devices for electric guitars, such equipment is based on transistor circuits without preamps and overdrive. Another distinguishing feature is the absence of an overloaded channel. The combo amplifiers for acoustic guitars provide a microphone channel for vocals, allowing you to use the device as a full-fledged instrument for rehearsals and concerts.

The presence of a case or cover in the tool delivery kit (what exactly is included in the kit must be specified in each case separately).

A case is called a case made of hard materials, a case is made of soft materials, this is the main difference between these types of accessories. Otherwise, they are similar: both the case and the cover are provided primarily for the convenience of transporting the tool. To do this, the design provides for handles, shoulder straps and other devices that facilitate carrying, as well as compartments for additional accessories (replaceable strings, tuners, etc.). However, it is desirable to store the tool in a case or case — to protect it from dust and other adverse factors.

The “native” case/case is good because it optimally fits a specific guitar model and is immediately sold with it, saving the owner from unnecessary searches. On the other hand, manufacturers often include the simplest types of cases in the kit, with minimal additional features and a very limited degree of protection. This is especially true for cases that can be made of thin material and are only suitable for short-distance movements in warm weather without rain. Therefore, sometimes it makes more sense to buy a case separately.

The presence of a belt in the tool kit.

The strap allows you to hang the guitar on your shoulder. This not only gives the guitarist additional options when playing (for example, you can comfortably play while standing), but it can also be useful for transporting the instrument — you can hang it behind your back, freeing your hands (although in this case it doesn’t hurt to make sure the strap is secure). Straps are also sold separately, but the complete accessory, by definition, is optimally suited for the guitar, and besides, you don’t need to spend additional time and effort to buy it.

A tuner is included with the instrument. Note that in this case we are talking about a separate device; electro-acoustic guitars (see "Type") are usually equipped with a module built directly into the tone block, so this package is not relevant for them.

The tuner is designed to tune the guitar — more precisely, to facilitate tuning: it determines how the sound of each string corresponds to the reference note, and tells the guitarist about it. Note that the functionality of the tuners can be different, and the characteristics of the complete device in each case should be specified separately. So, the simplest models are initially "sharpened" for the standard six-string system and can only display the direction (higher or lower) of the string's sound differs from the standard one. These tuners are inexpensive, but only suitable for undemanding musicians. More advanced models can determine the sounding note and the specific frequency of the sound, indicate the degree of deviation from the standard; there are devices with the ability to change the key of the system or even the type of system. These features may come in handy for professional guitarists.

Picks included with the guitar.

The pick is a small plate that the guitarist uses to pick the sound from the strings. In this way, you can get a brighter, clearer and more sonorous sound than when playing with your fingers (both on notes and on chords); therefore, many musicians prefer to use picks.

Picks can vary in stiffness; The best option depends primarily on the preferences of the guitarist. Thus, guitars, if they are equipped with picks, then, usually, several at once — this allows the musician to choose the most suitable option.