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acoustic, 4/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 20 frets(s)
acoustic, 4/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, deck: mahogany, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 20 frets(s)
acoustic, 4/4, orchestral model, strings 6, deck: mahogany, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 20 frets(s)
acoustic, 4/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, deck: linden, bridge - walnut, neck: nato, overlay - walnut, 20 frets(s)
acoustic, 4/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - ovankol, neck: mahogany, overlay - ovankol, 20 frets(s)
electroacoustic, 4/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, pickup, equalizer, tuner, deck: mahogany, neck: mahogany, 20 frets(s)
electroacoustic, 4/4, jumbo, strings 6, pickup, equalizer, tuner, deck: spruce, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 21 frets(s)
acoustic, 4/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 20 frets(s)
classic, 4/4, strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 19 frets(s)
classic, 4/4, strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - ebony, neck: mahogany, overlay - ebony, 19 frets(s)
electroacoustic, 4/4, strings 6, pickup, deck: spruce, bridge - ebony, neck: newton, overlay - ebony, 20 frets(s)
acoustic, 3/4, dreadnought (western), strings 6, deck: mahogany, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 19 frets(s)
acoustic, 4/4, grand concert, strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - rosewood, neck: mahogany, overlay - rosewood, 20 frets(s)
classic, 4/4, strings 6, deck: spruce, bridge - rosewood, neck: nato, overlay - rosewood, 19 frets(s)
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Acoustic Guitars: specifications, types
Type
General type of tool.
First of all, it is worth noting that the name “acoustic guitar” in our time can be used both in a broad sense (to denote a whole class of instruments) and in a narrow sense (to denote one of the types of such instruments). Acoustic guitars in the broad sense of the word also include classical and electro-acoustic models, as well as more specific instruments - acoustic bass guitars and ukuleles. Here is a detailed description of each of these varieties.
— Acoustic. Speaking about the types of guitars, “acoustic” refers to relatively modern models that differ in design from the “classics” (see below). In terms of capabilities, the main features of such instruments are the ability to use metal strings, as well as a generally louder and more sonorous sound. Externally, acoustic guitars (in the narrow sense of the word) are distinguished primarily by a relatively narrow and long neck, as well as a slightly different bridge design than classical ones; in addition, most models also have a larger body, the shape of which can be very diverse (see “Shape (type)”). This type of guitar can be used for different playing styles; in this sense it is more versatile than classic models.
- Classic. Instruments created on the basis of traditional Spanish guitars back in...the 19th century and surviving to this day almost unchanged. The classical guitar has a fairly wide neck, as well as a characteristic body shape; this shape is actually a standard, so different models are very similar in outline and differ in appearance mainly in color and the presence/absence of a cutout (see “Cutaway”). The main functional feature of such instruments is the inability to work with metal strings - on the “classics” you can only use nylon. Due to this, such guitars sound very soft and relatively quiet, and as a result, they are poorly suited for aggressive, dynamic chord playing. Therefore, the main purpose of such instruments is classical compositions. Also, this type of guitar is well suited for initial music learning: nylon strings do not cut your fingertips as much as metal ones.
— Electroacoustic. Acoustic guitars, complemented by built-in pickups and, as a rule, tone blocks (see below for both). This allows you not only to use the guitar in a traditional, acoustic format, but also to connect it to an amplifier or other equipment, incl. to add additional effects to the sound using “gadgets”.
- Ukulele. An instrument also known as the "ukulele". Outwardly it is really very similar to a guitar, but it is much smaller in size. There are usually 4 strings on such an instrument; there are other options - 8 (4 double) or 6, as on a regular guitar (“guitalele”), such models are also included in this category. The ukulele became widespread in the Pacific Islands and from the very beginning was associated with Hawaiian traditional music, but this does not stop there: almost the same possibilities are available for such instruments as for ordinary acoustic guitars.
- Bass. Guitars with a low, bass sound. The classical bass has 4 strings in EADG tuning - similar to the third through sixth strings of a six-string guitar, but an octave lower; The strings themselves, accordingly, are also much thicker. Five-string models are less common; they have a similar tuning principle (see “Number of strings”). Externally, many basses stand out with long and narrow necks, although this is not strictly necessary. A special case is the fretless bass: such an instrument does not have saddles on the neck, which expands the possibilities for using various specific sound production techniques, but requires special precision when placing the fingers. In any case, the main use of bass is rhythmic accompaniment, most often in combination with drums; For solo parts, such an instrument is practically not used. Also note that acoustic basses are usually supplemented with pickups - similar to the electro-acoustic guitars described above: it is very difficult to sound such an instrument in another way (with an external microphone).
First of all, it is worth noting that the name “acoustic guitar” in our time can be used both in a broad sense (to denote a whole class of instruments) and in a narrow sense (to denote one of the types of such instruments). Acoustic guitars in the broad sense of the word also include classical and electro-acoustic models, as well as more specific instruments - acoustic bass guitars and ukuleles. Here is a detailed description of each of these varieties.
— Acoustic. Speaking about the types of guitars, “acoustic” refers to relatively modern models that differ in design from the “classics” (see below). In terms of capabilities, the main features of such instruments are the ability to use metal strings, as well as a generally louder and more sonorous sound. Externally, acoustic guitars (in the narrow sense of the word) are distinguished primarily by a relatively narrow and long neck, as well as a slightly different bridge design than classical ones; in addition, most models also have a larger body, the shape of which can be very diverse (see “Shape (type)”). This type of guitar can be used for different playing styles; in this sense it is more versatile than classic models.
- Classic. Instruments created on the basis of traditional Spanish guitars back in...the 19th century and surviving to this day almost unchanged. The classical guitar has a fairly wide neck, as well as a characteristic body shape; this shape is actually a standard, so different models are very similar in outline and differ in appearance mainly in color and the presence/absence of a cutout (see “Cutaway”). The main functional feature of such instruments is the inability to work with metal strings - on the “classics” you can only use nylon. Due to this, such guitars sound very soft and relatively quiet, and as a result, they are poorly suited for aggressive, dynamic chord playing. Therefore, the main purpose of such instruments is classical compositions. Also, this type of guitar is well suited for initial music learning: nylon strings do not cut your fingertips as much as metal ones.
— Electroacoustic. Acoustic guitars, complemented by built-in pickups and, as a rule, tone blocks (see below for both). This allows you not only to use the guitar in a traditional, acoustic format, but also to connect it to an amplifier or other equipment, incl. to add additional effects to the sound using “gadgets”.
- Ukulele. An instrument also known as the "ukulele". Outwardly it is really very similar to a guitar, but it is much smaller in size. There are usually 4 strings on such an instrument; there are other options - 8 (4 double) or 6, as on a regular guitar (“guitalele”), such models are also included in this category. The ukulele became widespread in the Pacific Islands and from the very beginning was associated with Hawaiian traditional music, but this does not stop there: almost the same possibilities are available for such instruments as for ordinary acoustic guitars.
- Bass. Guitars with a low, bass sound. The classical bass has 4 strings in EADG tuning - similar to the third through sixth strings of a six-string guitar, but an octave lower; The strings themselves, accordingly, are also much thicker. Five-string models are less common; they have a similar tuning principle (see “Number of strings”). Externally, many basses stand out with long and narrow necks, although this is not strictly necessary. A special case is the fretless bass: such an instrument does not have saddles on the neck, which expands the possibilities for using various specific sound production techniques, but requires special precision when placing the fingers. In any case, the main use of bass is rhythmic accompaniment, most often in combination with drums; For solo parts, such an instrument is practically not used. Also note that acoustic basses are usually supplemented with pickups - similar to the electro-acoustic guitars described above: it is very difficult to sound such an instrument in another way (with an external microphone).
Number of strings
The number of strings used in the instrument.
The traditional option for classical and acoustic guitars (see "Type") is 6 strings. However, in such instruments and in other varieties you can also find other options: 4, 5, 7, 8 and even 12 strings. Here is a more detailed description of each of them:
— 4. Traditional number of strings for ukuleles and acoustic bass guitars (see “Type”); In both cases, a larger number of strings can be used, but 4 is considered a “classic of the genre”.
— 5. Option found in certain models of acoustic bass guitars. 4 classic bass strings in such instruments are complemented by a fifth, expanding the range of the instrument upwards. The downside is the increased cost of such basses, despite the fact that an extended range is not required so often for an acoustic instrument. Therefore, this option has not gained much popularity.
— 6. The most popular number of strings in modern guitars of “regular” varieties (acoustic, classical, electro-acoustic - see “Type”). When talking about such a guitar, by default they mean a six-string instrument. The standard tuning of such models is EADGBE (note that the traditional tuning of bass guitars and some varieties of ukuleles is also based on it).
There are...also other, much rarer varieties of six-string instruments - the guitarele (see “Form (type)”), as well as the ukulele with a pair of double strings (usually the second and third).
— 7. Most of the models in this category are so-called “Russian” seven-string guitars (another name is “gypsy”). They differ from the popular six-string ones not only in the number of strings, but also in the tuning - DGBDGBD. As for the sound, it is generally similar, although professional musicians and musicologists consider the seven-string guitar to be a “smoother” and richer instrument in terms of sound. Such guitars were popular mainly until the end of the twentieth century - in particular, it was the seven strings that were used by such famous bards as Vladimir Vysotsky and Bulat Okudzhava. However, in our time, this variety has fallen out of mass use.
Another, even rarer in our area, type of seven-string guitar is the “Brazilian”. This instrument uses the BEADGBE tuning - that is, essentially the standard tuning of a six-string guitar with an additional bass string in tone B (electric guitars with 7 strings are also tuned as standard ).
— 12. Modification of a six-string guitar, which uses 6 pairs of strings. The strings within each pair are at a minimum distance from each other and, as a rule, are tuned in unison or an octave - that is, roughly speaking, they sound together (however, professional guitarists also use more specific tuning options). This instrument is used mainly for rhythmic accompaniment: paired strings are inconvenient for solo parts, but they give a very rich sound in chords and are excellent for accompaniment. We also note that within one pair you can use strings from different materials, which gives the sound a special coloring.
— 8. Instruments with this number of strings are mainly ukuleles, similar in design to the 12-string guitars described above: instead of the traditional 4 strings, they have 4 pairs of strings. The specifics of such instruments are similar - they have a richer and more intense sound when accompanied, but are poorly suited for solo parts.
Another, much rarer version of 8 strings is six-string guitars, where the middle strings (third and fourth) are made paired. This is a compromise between the 6- and 12-string designs, providing a richer sound without significantly complicating the design and increasing its price.
The traditional option for classical and acoustic guitars (see "Type") is 6 strings. However, in such instruments and in other varieties you can also find other options: 4, 5, 7, 8 and even 12 strings. Here is a more detailed description of each of them:
— 4. Traditional number of strings for ukuleles and acoustic bass guitars (see “Type”); In both cases, a larger number of strings can be used, but 4 is considered a “classic of the genre”.
— 5. Option found in certain models of acoustic bass guitars. 4 classic bass strings in such instruments are complemented by a fifth, expanding the range of the instrument upwards. The downside is the increased cost of such basses, despite the fact that an extended range is not required so often for an acoustic instrument. Therefore, this option has not gained much popularity.
— 6. The most popular number of strings in modern guitars of “regular” varieties (acoustic, classical, electro-acoustic - see “Type”). When talking about such a guitar, by default they mean a six-string instrument. The standard tuning of such models is EADGBE (note that the traditional tuning of bass guitars and some varieties of ukuleles is also based on it).
There are...also other, much rarer varieties of six-string instruments - the guitarele (see “Form (type)”), as well as the ukulele with a pair of double strings (usually the second and third).
— 7. Most of the models in this category are so-called “Russian” seven-string guitars (another name is “gypsy”). They differ from the popular six-string ones not only in the number of strings, but also in the tuning - DGBDGBD. As for the sound, it is generally similar, although professional musicians and musicologists consider the seven-string guitar to be a “smoother” and richer instrument in terms of sound. Such guitars were popular mainly until the end of the twentieth century - in particular, it was the seven strings that were used by such famous bards as Vladimir Vysotsky and Bulat Okudzhava. However, in our time, this variety has fallen out of mass use.
Another, even rarer in our area, type of seven-string guitar is the “Brazilian”. This instrument uses the BEADGBE tuning - that is, essentially the standard tuning of a six-string guitar with an additional bass string in tone B (electric guitars with 7 strings are also tuned as standard ).
— 12. Modification of a six-string guitar, which uses 6 pairs of strings. The strings within each pair are at a minimum distance from each other and, as a rule, are tuned in unison or an octave - that is, roughly speaking, they sound together (however, professional guitarists also use more specific tuning options). This instrument is used mainly for rhythmic accompaniment: paired strings are inconvenient for solo parts, but they give a very rich sound in chords and are excellent for accompaniment. We also note that within one pair you can use strings from different materials, which gives the sound a special coloring.
— 8. Instruments with this number of strings are mainly ukuleles, similar in design to the 12-string guitars described above: instead of the traditional 4 strings, they have 4 pairs of strings. The specifics of such instruments are similar - they have a richer and more intense sound when accompanied, but are poorly suited for solo parts.
Another, much rarer version of 8 strings is six-string guitars, where the middle strings (third and fourth) are made paired. This is a compromise between the 6- and 12-string designs, providing a richer sound without significantly complicating the design and increasing its price.
Left handed
Guitars designed for left-handers — more precisely, for musicians playing with a reverse (left-handed) grip.
The traditional (right-handed) grip involves holding the neck to the left: the left hand is on the frets, the right hand is over the soundboard. Left-handed, respectively — on the contrary. Note that many guitars (for example, classical ones, see "Type") are completely symmetrical in construction, and for left-handed tuning, it is enough to set the strings in reverse order. Therefore, left-handed models in this case include only specialized tools in which asymmetric parts (for example, a cutout or a protective overlay, see below) are installed specifically for a left-handed grip. Such instruments will be appreciated primarily by professional left-handed guitarists.
The traditional (right-handed) grip involves holding the neck to the left: the left hand is on the frets, the right hand is over the soundboard. Left-handed, respectively — on the contrary. Note that many guitars (for example, classical ones, see "Type") are completely symmetrical in construction, and for left-handed tuning, it is enough to set the strings in reverse order. Therefore, left-handed models in this case include only specialized tools in which asymmetric parts (for example, a cutout or a protective overlay, see below) are installed specifically for a left-handed grip. Such instruments will be appreciated primarily by professional left-handed guitarists.
Pickup
The presence of a pickup in the design of the guitar.
The pickup allows you to connect the instrument to external equipment — for example, for a concert; it, in accordance with the name, provides sound transmission from the strings to the output (usually through the tone block, see below). By definition, all electric acoustic guitars have this feature, and basses are usually equipped with pickups (see “Type”).
The pickup allows you to connect the instrument to external equipment — for example, for a concert; it, in accordance with the name, provides sound transmission from the strings to the output (usually through the tone block, see below). By definition, all electric acoustic guitars have this feature, and basses are usually equipped with pickups (see “Type”).
Type
The type of tone block installed in a guitar with a pickup (see above).
The tone block is responsible for processing the signal coming from the pickup before applying this signal to the output of the instrument. Such processing includes at least frequency correction, often also amplification; in addition, it is through the tone block that such functions as a tuner for tuning and an equalizer are implemented (see below). And the types of such blocks can be as follows:
— Active. Tone blocks operating from their own power source (usually a replaceable battery). Such modules are more complicated and more expensive than passive ones, besides, when using them, you need to monitor the condition of the batteries and change them in time. On the other hand, the active operation scheme allows you to implement many advanced functions: high-quality frequency correction, gain, impedance matching with an external amplifier, as well as the equalizer and tuner mentioned above. Thus, most guitars with pickups nowadays are equipped with active tone blocks.
— Passive. Passive tone blocks do not have electronics that require additional power, so they are inexpensive and extremely easy to use. At the same time, the capabilities of such blocks are much more modest: for example, timbre correction in them is carried out only by cutting off “extra” frequencies, and there is no talk of amplification at all. This variant has not been widely used.
The tone block is responsible for processing the signal coming from the pickup before applying this signal to the output of the instrument. Such processing includes at least frequency correction, often also amplification; in addition, it is through the tone block that such functions as a tuner for tuning and an equalizer are implemented (see below). And the types of such blocks can be as follows:
— Active. Tone blocks operating from their own power source (usually a replaceable battery). Such modules are more complicated and more expensive than passive ones, besides, when using them, you need to monitor the condition of the batteries and change them in time. On the other hand, the active operation scheme allows you to implement many advanced functions: high-quality frequency correction, gain, impedance matching with an external amplifier, as well as the equalizer and tuner mentioned above. Thus, most guitars with pickups nowadays are equipped with active tone blocks.
— Passive. Passive tone blocks do not have electronics that require additional power, so they are inexpensive and extremely easy to use. At the same time, the capabilities of such blocks are much more modest: for example, timbre correction in them is carried out only by cutting off “extra” frequencies, and there is no talk of amplification at all. This variant has not been widely used.
Equalizer
The presence in the guitar tone block (see above) of the equalizer function.
The equalizer in this case means the ability to set the volume level for each individual frequency band. This allows you to quite accurately adjust the tone block to the desired sound. Guitar equalizers usually have less than 3 bands (low, medium, high frequencies) — this is quite enough for the initial adjustment (it makes sense to fine-tune the sound already on external equipment).
The equalizer in this case means the ability to set the volume level for each individual frequency band. This allows you to quite accurately adjust the tone block to the desired sound. Guitar equalizers usually have less than 3 bands (low, medium, high frequencies) — this is quite enough for the initial adjustment (it makes sense to fine-tune the sound already on external equipment).
Tuner
The presence of a built-in tuner in the guitar tone block (see above).
The tuner is used when tuning the guitar: it “listens” to each string and tells the musician how much the pitch of its sound corresponds to the reference (higher, lower, normal). This equipment greatly simplifies the setup. Tuners can also be produced as external devices, however, the presence of such electronics directly in the tone block is much more convenient: at least, it is always at hand and is not lost. For more details about the features of such devices, see "Tuner" below.
The tuner is used when tuning the guitar: it “listens” to each string and tells the musician how much the pitch of its sound corresponds to the reference (higher, lower, normal). This equipment greatly simplifies the setup. Tuners can also be produced as external devices, however, the presence of such electronics directly in the tone block is much more convenient: at least, it is always at hand and is not lost. For more details about the features of such devices, see "Tuner" below.
Size
The overall size of the body of the guitar.
This parameter is used to select the instrument according to the personal characteristics of the musician. Even adult guitarists can vary greatly in body type, not to mention children of different ages learning to play the guitar. Accordingly, guitars for different people should have different sizes.
It is customary to indicate the size as a fraction: for example, the largest guitars are indicated as 4/4(full size). A smaller number, accordingly, denotes a smaller case, although the proportion is not strict. For example, the total length of a classical guitar (see "Type") in 4/4 is usually 1 m, and in 3/4 is 885 mm.
The smallest instruments on the market today are 1/8. They, as well as the slightly larger 1/4, are intended for children up to 6 years of age. For the age category of 6 – 9 years, the best tool is 1/2, at 9 – 11 years old — size 3/4, for teenagers and people of petite build, models 7/8 are produced, and full 4/4 are designed for boys and adults of average and large build. At the same time, all these recommendations are rather conditional, and in fact it is worth considering not only age, but also the specific specifics of each person: for example, a 4/4 guitar that has grown up quickly at the age of 13 may be quite suitable.... It is also worth remembering that the shape of the body also significantly affects the dimensions of the guitar (see “Shape (view”)).
This parameter is used to select the instrument according to the personal characteristics of the musician. Even adult guitarists can vary greatly in body type, not to mention children of different ages learning to play the guitar. Accordingly, guitars for different people should have different sizes.
It is customary to indicate the size as a fraction: for example, the largest guitars are indicated as 4/4(full size). A smaller number, accordingly, denotes a smaller case, although the proportion is not strict. For example, the total length of a classical guitar (see "Type") in 4/4 is usually 1 m, and in 3/4 is 885 mm.
The smallest instruments on the market today are 1/8. They, as well as the slightly larger 1/4, are intended for children up to 6 years of age. For the age category of 6 – 9 years, the best tool is 1/2, at 9 – 11 years old — size 3/4, for teenagers and people of petite build, models 7/8 are produced, and full 4/4 are designed for boys and adults of average and large build. At the same time, all these recommendations are rather conditional, and in fact it is worth considering not only age, but also the specific specifics of each person: for example, a 4/4 guitar that has grown up quickly at the age of 13 may be quite suitable.... It is also worth remembering that the shape of the body also significantly affects the dimensions of the guitar (see “Shape (view”)).
Shape
General shape of the guitar body.
This characteristic affects both the appearance and dimensions of the instrument, as well as the characteristics of its sound. Note that for classical guitars (see “Type”) the shape is often not indicated, since it is standard for such instruments. But other varieties can be very diverse in outline. For example, among “acoustics” and “electroacoustics” there are such form options as dreadnought (western), jumbo, mini-jumbo, parlor, orchestral, grand auditorium, grand concert, road, resonator. Ukuleles, in turn, are available in soprano, concert, tenor, baritone and bass versions, as well as in the form of a special variety - guitarle. Here is a more detailed description of all these types of housing:
— Dreadnought (western). One of the most popular types of acoustic guitars. The body has a large shape and very “heavy”, angular outlines. The terms "dreadnought" and "western" are often used interchangeably, but sometimes only cutaway guitars are referred to as "westerns" (see below). This body shape provides a pronounced bass sound and a “rumbling” sound color, making dreadnoughts well suited for playing chords, but performing solos on such guitars is no...t very convenient.
— Orchestral model. Orchestra Models are somewhat reminiscent in shape of the dreadnoughts described above, but have more rounded and graceful outlines, in particular, a more pronounced “waist” in the area of the rosette (resonator hole). This allows you to achieve an even distribution of volume between the upper and lower frequencies. In terms of application, “orchestration” is the direct opposite of westerns: they are excellent for playing by fingerpicking and note-by-note, but on chords they sound noticeably weaker - both due to the lack of bass (especially with an aggressive playing style) and due to the relatively low volume. On the other hand, thanks to the uniform frequency response, an orchestral guitar can be picked up with a regular microphone even at a professional concert.
- Jumbo. The word Jumbo means “large”, and these cases are indeed quite large in dimensions. Another distinctive feature is the shape of the lower part of the soundboard: it can be almost round, and in any case, the contours of the jumbo body are usually smoother than those of orchestral models and especially dreadnoughts (although there are exceptions). Moreover, this type of body combines the features of the mentioned varieties: a balanced and smooth sound, characteristic of “orchestration”, is combined with the volume of “Western”. Because of this, jumbo guitars are generally considered the best option for mixed-style players. However, a lot depends on the specific model: some are closer in application to dreadnoughts, and sometimes the difference between a jumbo and a western lies only in how the manufacturer positions its instrument.
- Mini jumbo. A slightly smaller version of the jumbo (see above), with correspondingly lower volume and sound richness.
- Grand Auditorium. Another versatile type of guitar. It is similar in outline to a jumbo (see above) - to the point that the terms “grand auditorium” and “jumbo” (or “mini jumbo”, depending on the dimensions) are often used interchangeably.
- Grand concert. An analogue of the Grand Auditorium described above, somewhat smaller in dimensions.
- Parlor. Cases of this type are distinguished by fairly compact dimensions - some of them are close in dimensions to a ukulele - and, most often, quite small in width, but while maintaining a full-dimensions socket. Such instruments were initially popular in the late 19th and first half of the 20th centuries; Today they are valued by professionals both for their traditional sound with “historical notes” and for their ease of transportation.
- Road. In accordance with the name, such cases are created with ease of transportation in mind. They can have either a traditional shape, close to a dreadnought or jumbo (only smaller), or very specific shapes (for example, triangular or oval, like a medieval lute).
- Resonator. Six-string guitars, also known as “Dobro” (from the name Dobro, given by the creators and later becoming a trademark). In accordance with the name, to amplify the sound, such instruments use not just a hollow body, but a special part - a resonator. This element is installed under the top deck and covered with a characteristic round metal lid with slots; the lower threshold is placed directly on the lid. “Dobro” is distinguished by a rather loud and sharp sound; In addition, some models have a special neck design that makes it easier to play using a slide. In general, such guitars have a rather narrow niche of application; they are popular primarily among blues and country/bluegrass performers.
- Soprano. The smallest type of ukulele (see “Type”), it is also historically the first and most widespread. The standard overall length of such an instrument is 21" (53 cm) with a 13" scale length (see below). Soprano models have the most high-frequency emphasis of any ukulele, and are typically tuned using GCEA (heaviest to thinnest) tuning.
- Concert. The ukulele is slightly larger in dimensions than the sopranos described above - 23" in length and 15" in scale. They provide a slightly higher volume of low frequencies, but otherwise are completely similar.
- Tenor. Further, after the concert version, the ukulele increases in dimensions - up to 26" in total length (17" in scale). In addition, they differ in tuning: they can be tuned in both GCEA and DGBE (similar to the first 4 strings of a 6-string guitar).
- Baritone. Until relatively recently (before the advent of bass-type bodies), such instruments were the largest variety of ukulele. The standard overall length for a baritone is 30", scale length is 19"; Such an instrument is usually tuned in DGBE tuning (similar to the first through fourth strings of a 6-string guitar).
- Bass. One of the newest varieties of ukulele: launched for sale only in 2007. It is almost the same in dimensions as a baritone - length is about 30", scale length is 20" - however, it uses a different tuning, namely EADG (also an analogue of a six-string guitar, in this case corresponding to strings from the fourth to the sixth).
- Gitalele. A kind of “hybrid” between a traditional guitar and a ukulele. In fact, such instruments are six-string guitars, made in the dimensions of a ukulele and tuned 2.5 tones higher - ADGCEA tuning. At the same time, the fingering, chord placement technique and tuning procedure in the guitarel do not differ from ordinary guitars. Such instruments are also called “six-string ukuleles,” but this name can also be applied to classic 4-string ukuleles, where the second and third strings are doubled. So, to avoid confusion, it is better to still use the term “gitalele”.
This characteristic affects both the appearance and dimensions of the instrument, as well as the characteristics of its sound. Note that for classical guitars (see “Type”) the shape is often not indicated, since it is standard for such instruments. But other varieties can be very diverse in outline. For example, among “acoustics” and “electroacoustics” there are such form options as dreadnought (western), jumbo, mini-jumbo, parlor, orchestral, grand auditorium, grand concert, road, resonator. Ukuleles, in turn, are available in soprano, concert, tenor, baritone and bass versions, as well as in the form of a special variety - guitarle. Here is a more detailed description of all these types of housing:
— Dreadnought (western). One of the most popular types of acoustic guitars. The body has a large shape and very “heavy”, angular outlines. The terms "dreadnought" and "western" are often used interchangeably, but sometimes only cutaway guitars are referred to as "westerns" (see below). This body shape provides a pronounced bass sound and a “rumbling” sound color, making dreadnoughts well suited for playing chords, but performing solos on such guitars is no...t very convenient.
— Orchestral model. Orchestra Models are somewhat reminiscent in shape of the dreadnoughts described above, but have more rounded and graceful outlines, in particular, a more pronounced “waist” in the area of the rosette (resonator hole). This allows you to achieve an even distribution of volume between the upper and lower frequencies. In terms of application, “orchestration” is the direct opposite of westerns: they are excellent for playing by fingerpicking and note-by-note, but on chords they sound noticeably weaker - both due to the lack of bass (especially with an aggressive playing style) and due to the relatively low volume. On the other hand, thanks to the uniform frequency response, an orchestral guitar can be picked up with a regular microphone even at a professional concert.
- Jumbo. The word Jumbo means “large”, and these cases are indeed quite large in dimensions. Another distinctive feature is the shape of the lower part of the soundboard: it can be almost round, and in any case, the contours of the jumbo body are usually smoother than those of orchestral models and especially dreadnoughts (although there are exceptions). Moreover, this type of body combines the features of the mentioned varieties: a balanced and smooth sound, characteristic of “orchestration”, is combined with the volume of “Western”. Because of this, jumbo guitars are generally considered the best option for mixed-style players. However, a lot depends on the specific model: some are closer in application to dreadnoughts, and sometimes the difference between a jumbo and a western lies only in how the manufacturer positions its instrument.
- Mini jumbo. A slightly smaller version of the jumbo (see above), with correspondingly lower volume and sound richness.
- Grand Auditorium. Another versatile type of guitar. It is similar in outline to a jumbo (see above) - to the point that the terms “grand auditorium” and “jumbo” (or “mini jumbo”, depending on the dimensions) are often used interchangeably.
- Grand concert. An analogue of the Grand Auditorium described above, somewhat smaller in dimensions.
- Parlor. Cases of this type are distinguished by fairly compact dimensions - some of them are close in dimensions to a ukulele - and, most often, quite small in width, but while maintaining a full-dimensions socket. Such instruments were initially popular in the late 19th and first half of the 20th centuries; Today they are valued by professionals both for their traditional sound with “historical notes” and for their ease of transportation.
- Road. In accordance with the name, such cases are created with ease of transportation in mind. They can have either a traditional shape, close to a dreadnought or jumbo (only smaller), or very specific shapes (for example, triangular or oval, like a medieval lute).
- Resonator. Six-string guitars, also known as “Dobro” (from the name Dobro, given by the creators and later becoming a trademark). In accordance with the name, to amplify the sound, such instruments use not just a hollow body, but a special part - a resonator. This element is installed under the top deck and covered with a characteristic round metal lid with slots; the lower threshold is placed directly on the lid. “Dobro” is distinguished by a rather loud and sharp sound; In addition, some models have a special neck design that makes it easier to play using a slide. In general, such guitars have a rather narrow niche of application; they are popular primarily among blues and country/bluegrass performers.
- Soprano. The smallest type of ukulele (see “Type”), it is also historically the first and most widespread. The standard overall length of such an instrument is 21" (53 cm) with a 13" scale length (see below). Soprano models have the most high-frequency emphasis of any ukulele, and are typically tuned using GCEA (heaviest to thinnest) tuning.
- Concert. The ukulele is slightly larger in dimensions than the sopranos described above - 23" in length and 15" in scale. They provide a slightly higher volume of low frequencies, but otherwise are completely similar.
- Tenor. Further, after the concert version, the ukulele increases in dimensions - up to 26" in total length (17" in scale). In addition, they differ in tuning: they can be tuned in both GCEA and DGBE (similar to the first 4 strings of a 6-string guitar).
- Baritone. Until relatively recently (before the advent of bass-type bodies), such instruments were the largest variety of ukulele. The standard overall length for a baritone is 30", scale length is 19"; Such an instrument is usually tuned in DGBE tuning (similar to the first through fourth strings of a 6-string guitar).
- Bass. One of the newest varieties of ukulele: launched for sale only in 2007. It is almost the same in dimensions as a baritone - length is about 30", scale length is 20" - however, it uses a different tuning, namely EADG (also an analogue of a six-string guitar, in this case corresponding to strings from the fourth to the sixth).
- Gitalele. A kind of “hybrid” between a traditional guitar and a ukulele. In fact, such instruments are six-string guitars, made in the dimensions of a ukulele and tuned 2.5 tones higher - ADGCEA tuning. At the same time, the fingering, chord placement technique and tuning procedure in the guitarel do not differ from ordinary guitars. Such instruments are also called “six-string ukuleles,” but this name can also be applied to classic 4-string ukuleles, where the second and third strings are doubled. So, to avoid confusion, it is better to still use the term “gitalele”.
Cutaway
Special cutout on the body of the guitar. It is located at the base of the neck, to the right of it, if you look at the upright guitar from the front (in left-handed models — on the left). This feature makes it much easier to play on the upper frets (located near the rosette): without a cutout, the body would prevent reaching them. Therefore, this feature is highly desirable for guitarists who play notes at high frets (from the 12th and above).
There is an opinion that the cutout negatively affects the acoustics of the guitar (reduces the useful volume of the body, reduces the volume and saturation). However, in most cases, this effect is almost imperceptible, especially since manufacturers often use various tricks to compensate for this effect.
There is an opinion that the cutout negatively affects the acoustics of the guitar (reduces the useful volume of the body, reduces the volume and saturation). However, in most cases, this effect is almost imperceptible, especially since manufacturers often use various tricks to compensate for this effect.
Pickguard
A special protective pad that protects the soundboard from accidental contact with the pick.
The pickguard is usually located at the sound hole below the strings (if the guitar is considered in the standard playing position). With a dynamic, aggressive performance (especially when playing chords), it is in this place that the pick clamped in the hand most often hits; hitting an unprotected body causes damage to the surface of the body, which degrades the appearance and acoustic characteristics of the guitar. Pickguard prevents such damage: such an overlay is usually made of a hard material that is resistant to contact with most picks. Accordingly, the presence of this part is highly recommended if you plan to use the pick extensively when playing.
Note that the protective overlay usually differs in colour from the main material of the deck, due to which it is clearly visible.
The pickguard is usually located at the sound hole below the strings (if the guitar is considered in the standard playing position). With a dynamic, aggressive performance (especially when playing chords), it is in this place that the pick clamped in the hand most often hits; hitting an unprotected body causes damage to the surface of the body, which degrades the appearance and acoustic characteristics of the guitar. Pickguard prevents such damage: such an overlay is usually made of a hard material that is resistant to contact with most picks. Accordingly, the presence of this part is highly recommended if you plan to use the pick extensively when playing.
Note that the protective overlay usually differs in colour from the main material of the deck, due to which it is clearly visible.
Body
Guitar body construction, including both soundboards and sides. For these parts, two main types of wood can be used: solid (solid) and puff (better known as plywood). Plywood is cheaper than solid wood, but loses to it in terms of acoustic properties. Therefore, the type of deck in the characteristics is usually indicated only if solid wood is present in it. However, if data on the deck is not given, this does not mean that the instrument is made entirely of plywood; in addition, it is worth noting that some types of plywood come close to solid wood in terms of acoustic properties. Therefore, without having information on the deck design, it makes sense to focus primarily on the price category of the instrument.
Options for a solid tree can be as follows:
— One piece top. The English name is also used — solid top. We are talking about instruments in which only the upper deck is made of solid wood — the rest of the body is made of plywood. This option is a good compromise between sound quality and affordable price, it is quite popular in mid-range guitars.
— Completely whole. A body in which all parts are made of solid wood — both decks and sides. This is the most advanced option in terms of acoustics — especially since some types of wood even improve over time (provided that it is solid wood). However, a completely one-piece body is quite expensive, so this option is found...mainly in high-end professional instruments.
Options for a solid tree can be as follows:
— One piece top. The English name is also used — solid top. We are talking about instruments in which only the upper deck is made of solid wood — the rest of the body is made of plywood. This option is a good compromise between sound quality and affordable price, it is quite popular in mid-range guitars.
— Completely whole. A body in which all parts are made of solid wood — both decks and sides. This is the most advanced option in terms of acoustics — especially since some types of wood even improve over time (provided that it is solid wood). However, a completely one-piece body is quite expensive, so this option is found...mainly in high-end professional instruments.
Top deck
The material from which the top of the guitar is made is the flat part of the body on which the bridge (see below) and the sound hole are located.
A wide variety of materials are found in modern guitars — from spruce, maple or cedar, which are familiar in our latitudes, to expensive mahogany and “exotics” like bubinga (“African rosewood”) or koa, which grows only in Hawaii. Each material has its own characteristics that affect the sound and other properties of the instrument (for example, appearance and durability). However, the sound of a guitar largely depends on a number of other factors besides the material — the type of instrument, the shape of the body, etc. Therefore, models made of similar materials may well sound noticeably different. In addition, note that expensive woods can be used solely for aesthetic purposes and have no advantages over cheaper materials.
In light of all this, we can say that the data on materials are more of a reference value, and when choosing, it is more likely to focus on more significant characteristics (for example, the same body shape), as well as practical data about the tool (reviews, reviews, audio recordings of the game etc.). Detailed data on materials may be required only by professional musicians, luthier masters, etc.; this information, if desired, can be found in special sources.
A wide variety of materials are found in modern guitars — from spruce, maple or cedar, which are familiar in our latitudes, to expensive mahogany and “exotics” like bubinga (“African rosewood”) or koa, which grows only in Hawaii. Each material has its own characteristics that affect the sound and other properties of the instrument (for example, appearance and durability). However, the sound of a guitar largely depends on a number of other factors besides the material — the type of instrument, the shape of the body, etc. Therefore, models made of similar materials may well sound noticeably different. In addition, note that expensive woods can be used solely for aesthetic purposes and have no advantages over cheaper materials.
In light of all this, we can say that the data on materials are more of a reference value, and when choosing, it is more likely to focus on more significant characteristics (for example, the same body shape), as well as practical data about the tool (reviews, reviews, audio recordings of the game etc.). Detailed data on materials may be required only by professional musicians, luthier masters, etc.; this information, if desired, can be found in special sources.
Bottom deck
The material from which the lower soundboard of the guitar is made is a flat surface on the opposite side from the upper soundboard (it is this surface that is adjacent to the musician's body when the instrument is held normally).
The value of this parameter is described in detail in the “Upper deck” section — what is stated there is also true in this case. We only note that a wider range of materials is used for the lower deck: this part is less demanding on the characteristics of the material, which gives manufacturers additional choice.
In terms of specific materials, rosewood, sapele, maple, meranti and nato, among others, enjoy considerable popularity in modern times. Here is a brief description of each of them:
— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.
— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.
— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is...not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.
— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.
— Nato. A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.
The value of this parameter is described in detail in the “Upper deck” section — what is stated there is also true in this case. We only note that a wider range of materials is used for the lower deck: this part is less demanding on the characteristics of the material, which gives manufacturers additional choice.
In terms of specific materials, rosewood, sapele, maple, meranti and nato, among others, enjoy considerable popularity in modern times. Here is a brief description of each of them:
— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.
— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.
— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is...not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.
— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.
— Nato. A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.
Shell
The material from which the side of the guitar is made is the “side” surface of the body, which unites the upper and lower soundboards (see above).
About the meaning of the material of the body, see paragraph "Top deck" — everything stated in it is also true for the shell. Unless the range of materials used for this part is noticeably wider; also note that most often the material of the shell coincides with the material of the bottom deck. Here is a summary of some of the more popular options:
— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.
— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.
— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.
— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.
— Nato.... A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.
About the meaning of the material of the body, see paragraph "Top deck" — everything stated in it is also true for the shell. Unless the range of materials used for this part is noticeably wider; also note that most often the material of the shell coincides with the material of the bottom deck. Here is a summary of some of the more popular options:
— Rosewood. A name that combines the wood of several species of tropical trees. This material is said to provide deep sound and enhance bass quality, thereby improving the guitar's efficiency when playing rhythm parts on chords.
— Sapele. Also known as "African mahogany" due to its characteristic hue. It contributes to an even sound with medium depth and good expression of individual notes, which is considered important especially in solo parts.
— Maple. Maple wood is prone to a rather sharp and sonorous sound without much depth. However, this is not a drawback, but a feature: for some styles of music, just such a coloring of the sound is perfect.
— Meranti. Wood of trees of the genus Shorey, growing in the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. This material is mainly used in instruments manufactured by Yamaha, mainly classical guitars and ukuleles — it is for these varieties that meranti is considered the best option.
— Nato.... A relatively inexpensive variety of mahogany (mahogany) used in guitars in the corresponding price range. Contributes to a dense, but not very bright sound.
Bridge
The material from which the bridge (string holder) of the guitar is made is a device with which the strings are attached to the top deck.
Theoretically, the colour of the sound of an instrument depends on the characteristics of all its details. However, in the case of the bridge, this influence is so insignificant that the data on the material in this case are more of general reference and advertising than of real practical value. The variety of such materials is quite large; among the most common are rosewood, mongoy and ebony.
Theoretically, the colour of the sound of an instrument depends on the characteristics of all its details. However, in the case of the bridge, this influence is so insignificant that the data on the material in this case are more of general reference and advertising than of real practical value. The variety of such materials is quite large; among the most common are rosewood, mongoy and ebony.
Number of frets
The number of frets provided on the neck of the guitar.
The fret is the gap between the two nut on the fretboard. By pressing a finger on the string in this gap, the guitarist changes the pitch of the string: the farther the fret (from the headstock) — the shorter the string is and the higher the sound.
The more frets, the more notes the guitarist can take on each string and the more possibilities the instrument gives. On the other hand, for numerous frets, a fretboard of the appropriate length is needed, which affects the dimensions and cost of the instrument, and sometimes it is simply not justified: for example, ordinary guitars have at least 18 or 20 frets, while among ukuleles (see "Type ”), there are models for 12 – 16 frets.
In general, it makes sense to specifically look for an instrument with numerous frets if you plan to play complex solo parts on it; for playing chords, as well as relatively simple performance by notes, the number of frets does not play a special role.
The fret is the gap between the two nut on the fretboard. By pressing a finger on the string in this gap, the guitarist changes the pitch of the string: the farther the fret (from the headstock) — the shorter the string is and the higher the sound.
The more frets, the more notes the guitarist can take on each string and the more possibilities the instrument gives. On the other hand, for numerous frets, a fretboard of the appropriate length is needed, which affects the dimensions and cost of the instrument, and sometimes it is simply not justified: for example, ordinary guitars have at least 18 or 20 frets, while among ukuleles (see "Type ”), there are models for 12 – 16 frets.
In general, it makes sense to specifically look for an instrument with numerous frets if you plan to play complex solo parts on it; for playing chords, as well as relatively simple performance by notes, the number of frets does not play a special role.
Anchor
The type of truss provided in the guitar neck design.
The truss rod is a long metal rod located inside the neck of the guitar (along it). It is designed to provide the desired stiffness and prevent neck distortion due to string tension. This function is relevant for models that use metal strings — primarily acoustic ones (see "Type"); Nylon guitars don't need an anchor.
Often it is possible to adjust the tension force of the anchor — to change the degree of deflection of the neck. This can be useful both for adjusting to the guitarist's preferences and for correcting neck distortion that develops over time.
Note that the lack of information on the anchor does not mean the absence of the latter: some manufacturers simply do not bother to mention it in the basic data on the tool. So in such cases, you can try to find more detailed information on the selected model.
Specific options for the anchor can be as follows:
— Single. An anchor in the form of a single rod is the simplest and most inexpensive option. At the same time, the strength and rigidity of such a rod is sufficient in most cases.
— Double. Twin anchor, consisting of two rods. A pair of rods provides increased strength and reliability compared to a single truss rod, and also provides additional protection against lateral deformations of the fingerboard (deviations to the right / left). At the same time, a double anchor is not cheap, despite the fact...that the described advantages are really important only in professional music, where even the slightest deviations from the reference sound are unacceptable. Therefore, the double anchor is found mainly in premium tools.
— Is absent. The complete absence of an anchor in the design of the neck. Despite the useful properties of this part, its use is far from always justified: for example, the neck can be made of durable and elastic materials that “work” well without additional reinforcement. Another reason for the one-piece construction is that mounting a metal rod disrupts the neck's uniformity and can degrade the instrument's acoustic performance, which can be critical on high-end models. Note that the absence of an anchor is separately indicated only for acoustic guitars and other instruments with metal strings; in "nylon" models, rods are not used by definition, and there is no need to specifically specify its absence.
The truss rod is a long metal rod located inside the neck of the guitar (along it). It is designed to provide the desired stiffness and prevent neck distortion due to string tension. This function is relevant for models that use metal strings — primarily acoustic ones (see "Type"); Nylon guitars don't need an anchor.
Often it is possible to adjust the tension force of the anchor — to change the degree of deflection of the neck. This can be useful both for adjusting to the guitarist's preferences and for correcting neck distortion that develops over time.
Note that the lack of information on the anchor does not mean the absence of the latter: some manufacturers simply do not bother to mention it in the basic data on the tool. So in such cases, you can try to find more detailed information on the selected model.
Specific options for the anchor can be as follows:
— Single. An anchor in the form of a single rod is the simplest and most inexpensive option. At the same time, the strength and rigidity of such a rod is sufficient in most cases.
— Double. Twin anchor, consisting of two rods. A pair of rods provides increased strength and reliability compared to a single truss rod, and also provides additional protection against lateral deformations of the fingerboard (deviations to the right / left). At the same time, a double anchor is not cheap, despite the fact...that the described advantages are really important only in professional music, where even the slightest deviations from the reference sound are unacceptable. Therefore, the double anchor is found mainly in premium tools.
— Is absent. The complete absence of an anchor in the design of the neck. Despite the useful properties of this part, its use is far from always justified: for example, the neck can be made of durable and elastic materials that “work” well without additional reinforcement. Another reason for the one-piece construction is that mounting a metal rod disrupts the neck's uniformity and can degrade the instrument's acoustic performance, which can be critical on high-end models. Note that the absence of an anchor is separately indicated only for acoustic guitars and other instruments with metal strings; in "nylon" models, rods are not used by definition, and there is no need to specifically specify its absence.
Scale
Scale length of the guitar. The scale in this case is the working part of the string, in other words, the distance from the saddle (on the headstock) to the saddle (on the bridge). In most acoustic and similar guitars, the scale is set during production and is unchanged. Without going into technical details, we can say that the value of this parameter is generally a reference: it allows you to some extent estimate the overall dimensions of the instrument, as well as the size of the frets (the longer the scale, the larger the size of the frets, regardless of their number). However, there is also a practical application: with an adjustable anchor (see above), the scale length data can be useful in the tuning process.
Neck material
The material from which the neck of the guitar is made — more precisely, the base of the neck (the fretboard can be made from another material). Now the most commonly used materials are: nato, maple and mahogany. For the value of this parameter, see p. "Top deck".
Fretboard
The fingerboard material is the surface directly under the strings. Now the most commonly used materials are: rosewood, mongoy and ebony. For the value of this parameter, see p. "Top deck".
Combo amplifier
The presence of a combo amplifier in the package of delivery of an acoustic guitar.
The combo amplifier helps to emphasize all the "overtones" and features of acoustic sound production. Unlike similar devices for electric guitars, such equipment is based on transistor circuits without preamps and overdrive. Another distinguishing feature is the absence of an overloaded channel. The combo amplifiers for acoustic guitars provide a microphone channel for vocals, allowing you to use the device as a full-fledged instrument for rehearsals and concerts.
The combo amplifier helps to emphasize all the "overtones" and features of acoustic sound production. Unlike similar devices for electric guitars, such equipment is based on transistor circuits without preamps and overdrive. Another distinguishing feature is the absence of an overloaded channel. The combo amplifiers for acoustic guitars provide a microphone channel for vocals, allowing you to use the device as a full-fledged instrument for rehearsals and concerts.
Case
The presence of a case or cover in the tool delivery kit (what exactly is included in the kit must be specified in each case separately).
A case is called a case made of hard materials, a case is made of soft materials, this is the main difference between these types of accessories. Otherwise, they are similar: both the case and the cover are provided primarily for the convenience of transporting the tool. To do this, the design provides for handles, shoulder straps and other devices that facilitate carrying, as well as compartments for additional accessories (replaceable strings, tuners, etc.). However, it is desirable to store the tool in a case or case — to protect it from dust and other adverse factors.
The “native” case/case is good because it optimally fits a specific guitar model and is immediately sold with it, saving the owner from unnecessary searches. On the other hand, manufacturers often include the simplest types of cases in the kit, with minimal additional features and a very limited degree of protection. This is especially true for cases that can be made of thin material and are only suitable for short-distance movements in warm weather without rain. Therefore, sometimes it makes more sense to buy a case separately.
A case is called a case made of hard materials, a case is made of soft materials, this is the main difference between these types of accessories. Otherwise, they are similar: both the case and the cover are provided primarily for the convenience of transporting the tool. To do this, the design provides for handles, shoulder straps and other devices that facilitate carrying, as well as compartments for additional accessories (replaceable strings, tuners, etc.). However, it is desirable to store the tool in a case or case — to protect it from dust and other adverse factors.
The “native” case/case is good because it optimally fits a specific guitar model and is immediately sold with it, saving the owner from unnecessary searches. On the other hand, manufacturers often include the simplest types of cases in the kit, with minimal additional features and a very limited degree of protection. This is especially true for cases that can be made of thin material and are only suitable for short-distance movements in warm weather without rain. Therefore, sometimes it makes more sense to buy a case separately.
Strap
The presence of a belt in the tool kit.
The strap allows you to hang the guitar on your shoulder. This not only gives the guitarist additional options when playing (for example, you can comfortably play while standing), but it can also be useful for transporting the instrument — you can hang it behind your back, freeing your hands (although in this case it doesn’t hurt to make sure the strap is secure). Straps are also sold separately, but the complete accessory, by definition, is optimally suited for the guitar, and besides, you don’t need to spend additional time and effort to buy it.
The strap allows you to hang the guitar on your shoulder. This not only gives the guitarist additional options when playing (for example, you can comfortably play while standing), but it can also be useful for transporting the instrument — you can hang it behind your back, freeing your hands (although in this case it doesn’t hurt to make sure the strap is secure). Straps are also sold separately, but the complete accessory, by definition, is optimally suited for the guitar, and besides, you don’t need to spend additional time and effort to buy it.
Tuner
A tuner is included with the instrument. Note that in this case we are talking about a separate device; electro-acoustic guitars (see "Type") are usually equipped with a module built directly into the tone block, so this package is not relevant for them.
The tuner is designed to tune the guitar — more precisely, to facilitate tuning: it determines how the sound of each string corresponds to the reference note, and tells the guitarist about it. Note that the functionality of the tuners can be different, and the characteristics of the complete device in each case should be specified separately. So, the simplest models are initially "sharpened" for the standard six-string system and can only display the direction (higher or lower) of the string's sound differs from the standard one. These tuners are inexpensive, but only suitable for undemanding musicians. More advanced models can determine the sounding note and the specific frequency of the sound, indicate the degree of deviation from the standard; there are devices with the ability to change the key of the system or even the type of system. These features may come in handy for professional guitarists.
The tuner is designed to tune the guitar — more precisely, to facilitate tuning: it determines how the sound of each string corresponds to the reference note, and tells the guitarist about it. Note that the functionality of the tuners can be different, and the characteristics of the complete device in each case should be specified separately. So, the simplest models are initially "sharpened" for the standard six-string system and can only display the direction (higher or lower) of the string's sound differs from the standard one. These tuners are inexpensive, but only suitable for undemanding musicians. More advanced models can determine the sounding note and the specific frequency of the sound, indicate the degree of deviation from the standard; there are devices with the ability to change the key of the system or even the type of system. These features may come in handy for professional guitarists.
Picks
Picks included with the guitar.
The pick is a small plate that the guitarist uses to pick the sound from the strings. In this way, you can get a brighter, clearer and more sonorous sound than when playing with your fingers (both on notes and on chords); therefore, many musicians prefer to use picks.
Picks can vary in stiffness; The best option depends primarily on the preferences of the guitarist. Thus, guitars, if they are equipped with picks, then, usually, several at once — this allows the musician to choose the most suitable option.
The pick is a small plate that the guitarist uses to pick the sound from the strings. In this way, you can get a brighter, clearer and more sonorous sound than when playing with your fingers (both on notes and on chords); therefore, many musicians prefer to use picks.
Picks can vary in stiffness; The best option depends primarily on the preferences of the guitarist. Thus, guitars, if they are equipped with picks, then, usually, several at once — this allows the musician to choose the most suitable option.