Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Accuracy
The accuracy of the rate is usually determined by the largest error — the deviation from the reference time, which can occur in a month when the watch is constantly running in normal mode. Accordingly, the smaller the number in this paragraph, the more accurate the clock. In addition, the accuracy of the movement is a kind of status indicator: if the error exceeds the values stated in the characteristics, this may indicate a malfunction in the mechanism.
If the accuracy indicators are the same both in advance and in lag, one number is indicated in the characteristics — for example, 30 sec / month (i.e. +/-30 sec / month); however, many mechanisms have unequal deviations, for example -15/+25 sec/month. Also note that this parameter is relevant only for quartz watches (see “Movement type”): in mechanical models, the accuracy of the rate is noticeably lower, it is measured in seconds not per month, but per day.
Colour
The main colour of the watch case.
Modern watches are quite diverse in colour options. The most widespread models are in shades of "
stainless steel ",
golden and
black ; however, in addition to this, on the market you can find, in particular,
white,
yellow,
green,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue and
purple cases.
In general, the colour of the case is a fairly obvious parameter; Let's note only some of the nuances associated with marking:
— Multi-coloured models include models in which there is no clearly defined primary colour. If there is such a colour, it is indicated in the characteristics. And for two-tone cases, an additional colour can be specified, for example, "stainless steel
with gold " or "black
with blue "
— Silver, among other things, are plastic cases without additional coloring.
— "Stainless steel" in this case is a colour, not a material; other metals (e.g. alumin
...ium and titanium) that are not complemented by PVD coating (see “Case Coating”) may have this shade. And the cases of gold watches, in turn, are not necessarily made of gold — red and white gold are also used in jewelry.
— Camouflage coloring is indicated separately — such watches are designated as "military", and here, again, the main shade of the coloring is given. However, not every military model has camouflage on the body; see below for details.Rotating bezel
The rotating bezel is a swivel ring around the dial, with marks applied to it (ring).
Usually the bezel scale is similar to the minute/second scale of the dial, it is marked from 0 to 60, most often with marks every 5 or every 10 minutes (seconds). In such cases, this function is a somewhat simplified analogue of the timer or stopwatch / chronograph used in watches with analogue dials. To work in the stopwatch mode, you need to align the zero on the bezel with the position of the second or minute hand (depending on how long the period needs to be detected), and at the end of the measurement, look at what division on the bezel this hand has reached. To work in the timer mode, zero on the rotary scale is set at the end of the countdown, and the user can only monitor whether the arrow has reached zero. Thus, you can turn the watch into a timer or stopwatch mode with just one turn of the ring — it's faster and more convenient than digging into the settings. Such features are appreciated, in particular, by scuba divers who use a timer to control air supplies; at the same time, in diving watches, the rotation mechanism is often made one-sided, so that the bezel cannot be accidentally turned in the direction of increasing the remaining time.
There are other types of rotating bezels — for example, in the form of a scale with cardinal points used in watches with a
compass.
Crown protection
A safety plate in the area of the crown ensures that this weak spot is protected from damage and leaks.
The crown protection systems are the guarantors of shock resistance and water resistance of watches.
Strap
The material from which the bracelet/watch strap is made. Note that the division into bracelets and straps is rather arbitrary, the basis for it is precisely the material. In modern watches, there may be such options:
—
Nylon strap. Nylon is a synthetic material that has a characteristic structure in the form of interwoven threads in watch straps. In most cases, these threads are quite large, due to which the nylon straps are similar in appearance and texture to the ties of tourist backpacks; this option is typical for sports watches. However, there is another variety — finely woven nylon, which is used mainly in women's watches (see "Gender"). Of the practical properties of this material, it is worth noting, first of all, unpretentiousness and resistance to water, including salty; in addition, it can be given almost any colour, and the combination of multi-coloured fibers allows you to create original and bright straps.
—
Rubber strap. In this case, rubbers mean elastic materials that, in terms of properties, are a cross between plastic and rubber. Rubber is denser, harder and stronger than rubber, while noticeably softer and more flexible than plastic, which allows it to be used for watch straps. Of the advantages of this option, it is worth noting, first of all, high wear resistance and moisture resistance, which, combined with the appearance features, makes these straps a good option f
...or watches in a sporty design. But among the classic models, rubber is usually used in inexpensive watches and has rather modest characteristics.
— Leather strap. Genuine leather straps are typical for quite expensive watches: this material is expensive, while it has a solid and rich appearance. In addition, it is notable for its high strength, moisture resistance and durability. Of the shortcomings of the skin, in addition to the price, it is worth noting a certain tendency to scratches, as well as increased care requirements — otherwise the product may lose its “presentation”.
— Leatherette strap. As the name suggests, leatherettes were created as an alternative to real leather. Their main advantage is a relatively low price: being practically indistinguishable from a leather bracelet, such a bracelet will cost much less. On the other hand, this material is less durable, wears out rather quickly and is generally not so reliable. Note that today different types of leather substitutes are used, and the quality of this material usually directly depends on its price.
— Steel bracelet. The watch bracelet consists of links connected to each other; in this case they are made of stainless steel. This material is strong, durable, practically not subject to corrosion, moreover, it has a solid appearance and is quite pleasant to the touch; at the same time, the cost of steel allows it to be used even in inexpensive watches. Such bracelets are quite “heavy”, however, some owners consider this moment to be a virtue, because. it gives a feeling of solidity and reliability. And of any significant shortcomings of steel, one can only note high thermal conductivity — the bracelet will noticeably “cool” the hand if the watch has lain in the cold for some time (though not for long — just a few minutes).
— Milanese bracelet. Milanese are called metal bracelets made of links of very fine weaving (about 1 mm in size, or even less). The material of such a bracelet may be different; most often it is steel, but more expensive metals are also found. Anyway, such a bracelet has an original appearance, and also provides good air access, allowing the skin to breathe. Among the shortcomings of Milan, it can be noted that the links can “bite” the hair on the arm, creating discomfort. Thus, and also to keep the cost down, some watches do not use Milanese weave on the entire bracelet, but only on part of it (usually it is about half of the entire bracelet).
— Titanium bracelet. Bracelets made of titanium alloy are much stronger than steel, with less weight. They also conduct heat less well, making them better suited for cold weather. At the same time, titanium is characterized by almost all the same advantages: high strength and reliability, solid appearance, resistance to corrosion. Its main disadvantage is the high price, due to which this type of bracelet is found mainly in premium watches.
— Gold bracelet. Jewelery gold bracelets are mainly used with cases made of the same material (see the relevant paragraph). A watch with a gold bracelet is not so much a device for measuring time as a status accessory, or even a piece of jewelry; the latter is especially characteristic of female models.
— Silver bracelet. Silver bracelets are found exclusively in watches with cases made of the same material. Like the gold described above, this material is used not so much for practical as for fashion reasons — in order to give the watch a rich appearance and emphasize the status of its owner. At the same time, for a number of reasons, silver bracelets are extremely rare.
— Ceramic bracelet. A premium material found predominantly in women's watches (although there are also men's models with ceramic bracelets). Ceramic not only looks good, but also retains its original appearance for a long time — thanks to its excellent resistance to scratches, dirt and stains. In addition, this material has a relatively small weight; and the high cost in this case is more of a virtue — it emphasizes the high level of watches. Among the shortcomings of ceramic bracelets, some fragility can be noted — a strong blow can split the links.
— Plastic bracelet. This category includes both the actual bracelets, woven from individual links, and straps made of flexible plastic. The second variety is similar to rubber straps, see the relevant paragraph for more details. As for the bracelets, they are usually combined with cases made of similar materials (plastic or carbon), and can be used in different categories of watches — both relatively inexpensive and quite advanced. The quality of plastic in this case, usually, is directly related to the price category of the device.
— Tungsten bracelet. Bracelets made of tungsten alloy are highly durable and reliable; these properties are further emphasized by the fact that tungsten has a very high melting point. And yes, it does look good. At the same time, it does not have key advantages over other premium alloys (titanium, see above) and is noticeably more expensive due to the complexity of production. As a result, such bracelets are extremely rare, mainly in combination with cases made of the same material (see "Case Material").
— Aluminium bracelet. Quite a rare option, found in single watch models. Bracelets made of aluminium are lighter than steel, they are not inferior to them in terms of strength and reliability, however, they are more expensive.Strap colour
The main colour of the watch strap/bracelet.
The most popular shades nowadays are
stainless steel(the colour of most metal bracelets, not necessarily steel ones),
golden(bracelets made of gold and "gold"),
black(strap made of different materials, including rubber and nylon, as well as separate bracelets) and
brown(mostly leather straps). Other colour options include
beige,
white,
yellow,
green, camouflage (
military style),
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue, and
purple.
In addition, some models of watches are equipped with two-tone straps. Most often,
white,
gold and
black are used as secondary colours, and this colour is specified after the main one — for example, “blue with white” or “stainless steel with gold”. If this paragraph lists several colours separated by commas — for example, "black, red, blue" — this means
...that the watch is either sold in several versions that differ in the colour of the strap, or comes with several interchangeable straps / bracelets of the corresponding colours at once. This nuance should be clarified separately.Clasp
The type of clasp used on the original watch band/bracelet.
In modern times, either fasteners
of the classical design with a buckle or
clip -on earrings are used.
Hook-and-loop is extremely rare, and in some women's models (the so-called
bracelet watches), there is no clasp at all. Here is a more detailed description of each of these options:
– Classic (with buckle). Clasp similar in design to a belt buckle. When it is fastened, one of the halves of the strap, which has holes, is threaded through the buckle and fixed with a pin placed in one of the holes, as well as with special loops. This procedure is somewhat less convenient than fastening the clip; in addition, the pin protrudes slightly above the strap and, in case of an unfortunate set of circumstances, can catch on something (the probability of this is extremely small, but still there). On the other hand, buckles are perfect for straps made from leather, rubber, and other soft materials. And compared to clips, such fasteners are much easier to adjust in size — when fastening, it is enough to choose a hole corresponding to the coverage of the hand.
— Clip (unfolds). A type of clasp used primarily on metal bracelets. The most widespread type of clip, consisting of two curved plates connected by an axis. When unfastened, they open like a book, increasing the
...overall length of the bracelet and allowing you to easily remove the watch from your hand, and when fastened, they fold close to each other and are fixed, securing the bracelet on your wrist. The second popular type of clip is "butterfly": it uses two movable plates attached to the base with the help of rotary axes and opens like butterfly wings (hence the name). Note that there are also straps with clips on the market, most often leather ones; they are more expensive than buckle straps and somewhat more difficult to adjust in length, but are more secure and do not have a protruding pin that can cause inconvenience.
— Hook-and-loop. A traditional Hook-and-loop fastener consisting of two parts — a felt lining and a retainer with a set of microscopic hooks that, when fastened, cling to the fibers of the felt and hold the fastener in place. Such devices are used in straps made of soft materials, mainly nylon, and are very rare in modern watches. This is mainly due to the fact that as the felt part of the Hook-and-loop wears out, it quickly loses its working properties. Of the advantages of such clamps, one can note the simplicity and speed of fastening and unfastening.
— Is absent. This option is typical mainly for the so-called bracelet watches, designed mainly for a female audience. Such products, in accordance with the name, are not so much traditional watches as jewelry, complemented by watches; they are made in the appropriate design, often with the use of precious metals and stones.
It is also worth mentioning that not all bracelet watches are devoid of clasps — there are models that have such devices. However, the design of fasteners in such cases is usually quite far from the buckles, clips and Hook-and-loop used in conventional watches, so the characteristics for them also indicate the option "Clasp — no".Waterproof
As the name suggests, this parameter determines the degree of resistance of the watch to moisture. It is traditionally stated as the maximum depth under water at which the watch is able to remain watertight; however, it must be borne in mind that this number is very arbitrary. The fact is that when calculating the maximum immersion depth, only the static pressure of water is taken into account, that is, the pressure at complete immobility; at the same time, any movement creates dynamic pressure, which significantly increases the load on the body. In practice, this means that a mark of, for example, 50 m does not mean that you can dive to a depth of 50 m with a watch.
Modern water protection markings correspond to the following practical possibilities:
—
30 m(same as “Water Resistant” without any numbers). Entry level, drops of water are allowed, but not strong splashes. For example, such a watch can be left on in the rain or when washing, but when showering or washing a car, it should be left in a safe place. Of course, there is no talk of immersion in water.
-
50 m. Minimum water resistance, allowing the watch to be immersed in water. These watches can usually be used for swimming, and in some cases even jumping into the water (but not from towers), but they are not suitable for more serious tasks like surfing, snorkeling or scuba diving. As a rule, buttons are not allowed to be
...used underwater.
- 100 m. This degree of water protection allows not only swimming, but also diving to shallow depths, however, it is still considered insufficient for surfing, jumping from towers and scuba diving.
- 200 m. Watches with such water protection are classified as “divers”; models and can withstand scuba diving to depths of up to 20 m.
- 300 m or more. Professional diving models suitable for diving to significant depths.
Please note that the characteristics described are approximate. Specific indicators of water resistance and the possibility of using the watch with water should be clarified according to the official data of the manufacturer.