Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Type of index
The type of markup used on the main watch face. This parameter is relevant for models with hands (see "Dial Type"), while the type of marking is indicated only on the main scale — additional marks on the bezel are not taken into account (although markings on the additional world time dial may be taken into account).
This parameter does not affect the functionality of the watch, and the choice depends solely on the tastes of the owner. The main types of markings found in modern watches include
Arabic and
Roman numerals (which can be supplemented with marks),
a combination of these numbers, as well as the simplest
marks themselves. Here are the main features of these options and their combinations:
— Arabic. Dials that have marks only in the form of Arabic numerals — that is, standard modern numbers "1", "2", etc. In this way, both all divisions of the dial, and only some of them (for example, 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock). However, anyway, there are no other types of marks in such watches.
— Roman. Dials that are marked only in the form of Roman numerals — combinations of the symbols I, V, X. This marking gives the watch a peculiar style, but it can take some getting used to — and therefore is less common than Arabic numerals. Again, in this case we are talking about dials that do not carry any other designations, excep
...t for numbers of this type.
— Tags. Minimalistic design, in which the divisions on the dial are indicated only by a label, without a signature. Most often, marks are applied to all twelve hours; exceptions to this rule are possible, but they are rare nowadays. It should be noted that such a design can be found both in classic watches with minimal functionality and in advanced models with extensive features: in the first case, the marks give the product a neat appearance, in the second, they save space on the dial for additional scales and markings. Theoretically, such markup is not as convenient as notation with numbers; however, almost all dials in modern wristwatches use a 12-hour scale with a standard location of marks, so with a little habit you can completely do without numbers — the position of the mark on the scale already carries enough information.
— Arabic + Roman. Dials that combine both types of numbers described above at once (sometimes also with marks; in this case, the presence of marks is not specified). The most popular type of watch with this feature is the world clock (see "Features and Features"), where one dial is marked with Arabic numerals and the other with Roman numerals. There is also a combination of these symbols on the same scale — for example, when 3 and 9 hours are indicated by ordinary numerals, and 6 and 12 by Roman numerals. However, neither one nor the other variant received special distribution.
— Labels + Arabic. Dials, in which part of the markings are applied with Arabic numerals, part with marks (for both, see above). Moreover, the ratio of both can be different: for example, in some models there is only one digit (usually "12"); in others, key positions "3", "6", "9" and "12" are designated by numbers; thirdly, part of the dial is occupied by a display, near which the numbers simply do not fit and you have to manage with marks, etc.
— Marks + Roman. The dials, in which part of the markings are applied with marks, part with Roman numerals. This markup method is generally similar to the “labels + Arabic” option described above (and can also provide different design options).Strap
The material from which the bracelet/watch strap is made. Note that the division into bracelets and straps is rather arbitrary, the basis for it is precisely the material. In modern watches, there may be such options:
—
Nylon strap. Nylon is a synthetic material that has a characteristic structure in the form of interwoven threads in watch straps. In most cases, these threads are quite large, due to which the nylon straps are similar in appearance and texture to the ties of tourist backpacks; this option is typical for sports watches. However, there is another variety — finely woven nylon, which is used mainly in women's watches (see "Gender"). Of the practical properties of this material, it is worth noting, first of all, unpretentiousness and resistance to water, including salty; in addition, it can be given almost any colour, and the combination of multi-coloured fibers allows you to create original and bright straps.
—
Rubber strap. In this case, rubbers mean elastic materials that, in terms of properties, are a cross between plastic and rubber. Rubber is denser, harder and stronger than rubber, while noticeably softer and more flexible than plastic, which allows it to be used for watch straps. Of the advantages of this option, it is worth noting, first of all, high wear resistance and moisture resistance, which, combined with the appearance features, makes these straps a good option f
...or watches in a sporty design. But among the classic models, rubber is usually used in inexpensive watches and has rather modest characteristics.
— Leather strap. Genuine leather straps are typical for quite expensive watches: this material is expensive, while it has a solid and rich appearance. In addition, it is notable for its high strength, moisture resistance and durability. Of the shortcomings of the skin, in addition to the price, it is worth noting a certain tendency to scratches, as well as increased care requirements — otherwise the product may lose its “presentation”.
— Leatherette strap. As the name suggests, leatherettes were created as an alternative to real leather. Their main advantage is a relatively low price: being practically indistinguishable from a leather bracelet, such a bracelet will cost much less. On the other hand, this material is less durable, wears out rather quickly and is generally not so reliable. Note that today different types of leather substitutes are used, and the quality of this material usually directly depends on its price.
— Steel bracelet. The watch bracelet consists of links connected to each other; in this case they are made of stainless steel. This material is strong, durable, practically not subject to corrosion, moreover, it has a solid appearance and is quite pleasant to the touch; at the same time, the cost of steel allows it to be used even in inexpensive watches. Such bracelets are quite “heavy”, however, some owners consider this moment to be a virtue, because. it gives a feeling of solidity and reliability. And of any significant shortcomings of steel, one can only note high thermal conductivity — the bracelet will noticeably “cool” the hand if the watch has lain in the cold for some time (though not for long — just a few minutes).
— Milanese bracelet. Milanese are called metal bracelets made of links of very fine weaving (about 1 mm in size, or even less). The material of such a bracelet may be different; most often it is steel, but more expensive metals are also found. Anyway, such a bracelet has an original appearance, and also provides good air access, allowing the skin to breathe. Among the shortcomings of Milan, it can be noted that the links can “bite” the hair on the arm, creating discomfort. Thus, and also to keep the cost down, some watches do not use Milanese weave on the entire bracelet, but only on part of it (usually it is about half of the entire bracelet).
— Titanium bracelet. Bracelets made of titanium alloy are much stronger than steel, with less weight. They also conduct heat less well, making them better suited for cold weather. At the same time, titanium is characterized by almost all the same advantages: high strength and reliability, solid appearance, resistance to corrosion. Its main disadvantage is the high price, due to which this type of bracelet is found mainly in premium watches.
— Gold bracelet. Jewelery gold bracelets are mainly used with cases made of the same material (see the relevant paragraph). A watch with a gold bracelet is not so much a device for measuring time as a status accessory, or even a piece of jewelry; the latter is especially characteristic of female models.
— Silver bracelet. Silver bracelets are found exclusively in watches with cases made of the same material. Like the gold described above, this material is used not so much for practical as for fashion reasons — in order to give the watch a rich appearance and emphasize the status of its owner. At the same time, for a number of reasons, silver bracelets are extremely rare.
— Ceramic bracelet. A premium material found predominantly in women's watches (although there are also men's models with ceramic bracelets). Ceramic not only looks good, but also retains its original appearance for a long time — thanks to its excellent resistance to scratches, dirt and stains. In addition, this material has a relatively small weight; and the high cost in this case is more of a virtue — it emphasizes the high level of watches. Among the shortcomings of ceramic bracelets, some fragility can be noted — a strong blow can split the links.
— Plastic bracelet. This category includes both the actual bracelets, woven from individual links, and straps made of flexible plastic. The second variety is similar to rubber straps, see the relevant paragraph for more details. As for the bracelets, they are usually combined with cases made of similar materials (plastic or carbon), and can be used in different categories of watches — both relatively inexpensive and quite advanced. The quality of plastic in this case, usually, is directly related to the price category of the device.
— Tungsten bracelet. Bracelets made of tungsten alloy are highly durable and reliable; these properties are further emphasized by the fact that tungsten has a very high melting point. And yes, it does look good. At the same time, it does not have key advantages over other premium alloys (titanium, see above) and is noticeably more expensive due to the complexity of production. As a result, such bracelets are extremely rare, mainly in combination with cases made of the same material (see "Case Material").
— Aluminium bracelet. Quite a rare option, found in single watch models. Bracelets made of aluminium are lighter than steel, they are not inferior to them in terms of strength and reliability, however, they are more expensive.Strap colour
The main colour of the watch strap/bracelet.
The most popular shades nowadays are
stainless steel(the colour of most metal bracelets, not necessarily steel ones),
golden(bracelets made of gold and "gold"),
black(strap made of different materials, including rubber and nylon, as well as separate bracelets) and
brown(mostly leather straps). Other colour options include
beige,
white,
yellow,
green, camouflage (
military style),
red,
orange,
pink,
silver,
grey,
blue, and
purple.
In addition, some models of watches are equipped with two-tone straps. Most often,
white,
gold and
black are used as secondary colours, and this colour is specified after the main one — for example, “blue with white” or “stainless steel with gold”. If this paragraph lists several colours separated by commas — for example, "black, red, blue" — this means
...that the watch is either sold in several versions that differ in the colour of the strap, or comes with several interchangeable straps / bracelets of the corresponding colours at once. This nuance should be clarified separately.Clasp
The type of clasp used on the original watch band/bracelet.
In modern times, either fasteners
of the classical design with a buckle or
clip -on earrings are used.
Hook-and-loop is extremely rare, and in some women's models (the so-called
bracelet watches), there is no clasp at all. Here is a more detailed description of each of these options:
– Classic (with buckle). Clasp similar in design to a belt buckle. When it is fastened, one of the halves of the strap, which has holes, is threaded through the buckle and fixed with a pin placed in one of the holes, as well as with special loops. This procedure is somewhat less convenient than fastening the clip; in addition, the pin protrudes slightly above the strap and, in case of an unfortunate set of circumstances, can catch on something (the probability of this is extremely small, but still there). On the other hand, buckles are perfect for straps made from leather, rubber, and other soft materials. And compared to clips, such fasteners are much easier to adjust in size — when fastening, it is enough to choose a hole corresponding to the coverage of the hand.
— Clip (unfolds). A type of clasp used primarily on metal bracelets. The most widespread type of clip, consisting of two curved plates connected by an axis. When unfastened, they open like a book, increasing the
...overall length of the bracelet and allowing you to easily remove the watch from your hand, and when fastened, they fold close to each other and are fixed, securing the bracelet on your wrist. The second popular type of clip is "butterfly": it uses two movable plates attached to the base with the help of rotary axes and opens like butterfly wings (hence the name). Note that there are also straps with clips on the market, most often leather ones; they are more expensive than buckle straps and somewhat more difficult to adjust in length, but are more secure and do not have a protruding pin that can cause inconvenience.
— Hook-and-loop. A traditional Hook-and-loop fastener consisting of two parts — a felt lining and a retainer with a set of microscopic hooks that, when fastened, cling to the fibers of the felt and hold the fastener in place. Such devices are used in straps made of soft materials, mainly nylon, and are very rare in modern watches. This is mainly due to the fact that as the felt part of the Hook-and-loop wears out, it quickly loses its working properties. Of the advantages of such clamps, one can note the simplicity and speed of fastening and unfastening.
— Is absent. This option is typical mainly for the so-called bracelet watches, designed mainly for a female audience. Such products, in accordance with the name, are not so much traditional watches as jewelry, complemented by watches; they are made in the appropriate design, often with the use of precious metals and stones.
It is also worth mentioning that not all bracelet watches are devoid of clasps — there are models that have such devices. However, the design of fasteners in such cases is usually quite far from the buckles, clips and Hook-and-loop used in conventional watches, so the characteristics for them also indicate the option "Clasp — no".Quick bracelet elongation
A mechanism that allows you to quickly change the length of the bracelet without disassembling it or using additional devices. Usually performed in the form of a miniature screw, by turning which, you can adjust the length; the range of such adjustment is most often of the order of 10 – 15 mm.
Such a mechanism is relevant primarily for watches with a clip-on clasp (see the relevant paragraph). With traditional adjustment, the clasp has to be disassembled, which requires both tools and certain skills. The quick extension system, in turn, is extremely easy to use and is available even in a complete "separation from civilization" — for example, in nature.
