Comparison Luxeon SW-2000 2 kVA / 1400 W vs Luxeon SVR-2000 2 kVA / 1400 W

The voltage range at the input of the stabilizer, at which it is able to operate in normal mode and supply a constant voltage of 230 or 400 V to the load (depending on the number of phases, see above). The wider this range — the more versatile the device, the more serious power surges it can extinguish without going beyond the standard operating parameters. However, note that this parameter is not the only, and not even far from the main indicator of the quality of work: a lot also depends on the accuracy of the output voltage and the response speed (see both points below).

Also note that some models may have several modes of operation (for example, with 230 V, 230 V or 240 V output). In this case, the characteristics indicate the "general" input voltage range, from the smallest minimum to the largest maximum; the actual ranges for each particular mode will vary.

In addition, there are stabilizers that can operate outside the nominal input voltage range: with a slight deviation beyond its limits, the device provides relatively safe output indicators (also with some deviations from the nominal 230 or 400 V), but if the drop or rise becomes critical, it works appropriate protection (see below).

The efficiency of the stabilizer is the ratio, expressed as a percentage, between the amount of electricity at the output of the device to the amount of energy at the input. In other words, efficiency describes how much of the energy received from the network the device transfers to the connected load without loss. And losses during operation will be inevitable — firstly, not a single transformer is perfect, and secondly, the control circuits of the stabilizer also require a certain amount of energy to work. At the same time, all these costs are quite small, and even in relatively simple modern models, the efficiency can reach 97-98%.

The type of voltmeter provided in the stabilizer design, or rather the type of scale used by this device. This voltmeter itself allows you to monitor the voltage - usually both at the input and at the output - which makes it easier to control the stabilizer's operation. For this purpose, two separate scales are most often provided, but there are also "single" voltmeters, with a switch to select between input and output voltage. And by scale type, there are the following options:

— Analog. Analog voltmeters are equipped with a traditional scale — with divisions and an arrow applied to it. They are simpler and cheaper than digital ones, but less accurate — even in the thinnest devices, the error in indications can be 5-10 V only due to the peculiarities of reading information from such a scale. And in some inexpensive models, analog voltmeters play the role of general indicators rather than precision devices. At the same time, for most everyday tasks, such accuracy is quite sufficient.

— Digital. In such voltmeters, the role of the scale is played by a digital indicator, on which voltage values can be displayed with an accuracy of up to a volt — this is the main advantage of this option over the analog one. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the complexity and rather high cost of digital indicators. In addition, such high accuracy can be critical in the professional sphere, but in everyday life it is not always...required. Accordingly, in inexpensive low-power stabilizers, a digital voltmeter is often more of a marketing ploy than a real necessity.

The number of standard 230 V sockets provided in the stabilizer. Note that such sockets are not suitable for devices that require grounding (see below).

The number of sockets for 230 V with grounding provided in the design of the stabilizer.

Some electrical appliances, such as refrigerators and washing/dishwashers, must be grounded when connected. This point should not be ignored — there is a risk of a serious electric shock. Accordingly, the number of sockets with grounding corresponds to the maximum number of such devices that can be simultaneously connected to the stabilizer without the use of splitters. At the same time, ungrounded devices can also be connected to such sockets.

— Wall mounted. This option includes two installation methods. The first, classic option is hanging with the help of “ears” on screws, studs or other similar devices. Thanks to this, the device does not take up space on the floor, in addition, the owner can choose the installation height; this is especially useful in cramped conditions. The disadvantage of this method, compared with the floor, can be called the need to "hollow the walls" and less suitability for moving from place to place; in addition, it is poorly suited for powerful heavy vehicles. The second type of wall-mounted devices are compact low-power models (usually a voltage relay — see "Device"), plugged into a socket not through a wire, but with a plug on the case itself. In fact, such a device is mounted directly on the outlet and does not require special installation.

— Outdoor. Floor models favorably differ from wall models in simplicity and ease of installation: in fact, apart from a flat surface, nothing else is needed for them. The role of such a surface can be played not only by the floor, but also by a shelf, countertop, etc. (the main thing is that such a design can withstand the weight of the stabilizer), and the installation itself is limited only to moving the stabilizer to the desired point in the room. In addition, the ease of moving from place to place is limited only by the mentioned weight, and it can be almost anything. Thanks to this, among the floor...models there are options for any available power and "tricks". The main disadvantage of this method is the need for space under the stabilizer on the floor or other surface.

Note that some models allow both wall and floor installation as standard. Such a device can be useful, for example, if you have not yet decided on a specific option, or if the situation can change at any time. In addition, it is technically possible to put the wall model on the floor, and equip the floor model with mounts and hang it on the wall, but usually such tricks at least do not make sense, or even lead to unpleasant consequences (such as overheating or breakage of the mounts).

The method of heat removal from the heating elements of the stabilizer.

— Passive. Passive cooling is any type of cooling that does not provide forced heat removal and is carried out only due to natural heat transfer and convection. In low-power stabilizers of this type, the cooling system as such may be completely absent — the amount of heat generated is relatively small, and the natural thermal conductivity of the case and the parts themselves is quite enough to dissipate it into the environment. In more advanced models, radiators can be installed. The main advantage of any passive cooling is the complete absence of noise. In addition, such systems are inexpensive, do not consume energy, take up relatively little space and are very reliable — there is simply nothing to break there, in most cases. On the other hand, they are significantly inferior to active cooling in terms of efficiency, and therefore are poorly suited for powerful devices, especially thyristor and triac (see "Type").

— Active. Active cooling involves the forced removal of heat from the components of the device. This is usually done by combining heatsinks with fans that "blow" excess heat out of the case. Such systems have extremely high efficiency, they can be used in stabilizers of any power, and for semiconductor models (see "Type") active cooling is simply irreplaceable. However, the cost of this efficiency is a high noise level, as well as significant dimensions and weight, which ac...cordingly affect the entire device. Fans tend to draw dust into the case, so you need to monitor them and periodically clean the “hardware” of the stabilizer; and if the fan fails, all cooling, in fact, fails. In addition, the cost of such systems is significantly higher than that of passive ones.

The degree of protection of the internal components of the stabilizer from various undesirable influences from the outside — first of all, from the ingress of moisture and foreign objects. The IP (ingress protection) standard is used to describe the protection provided by an enclosure.

In marking according to this standard, two digits are usually used — for example, IP54. The first digit describes the degree of protection against various solid objects (up to and including sand and dust). Its specific meanings may be as follows:

1 — protection against objects measuring 50 mm or more (for comparison: the average male fist will no longer pass even through the largest hole in such a case).
2 — from objects with a size of 12.5 mm or more (comparable to the thickness of a finger on a hand).
3 — from objects with a size of 2.5 mm or more (we can talk about protection against accidental contact with most standard tools).
4 — from objects with a size of 1 mm or more (for example, most wires).
5 — medium degree of protection against dust (it is allowed to get inside a certain amount of dust that does not affect the operation of the device).
6 — the maximum degree of protection against dust (its ingress is practically excluded).

The second digit, respectively, describes the resistance to moisture:

1 — minimum degree of protection — the device, placed in the working position, is resistant to individual drops falling vertica...lly on it.
2 — vertical drops are allowed when the device deviates from the working position by less than 15 °.
3 — splashes flying at an angle of up to 60 ° from the vertical are allowed; rain protection.
4 — resistance to splashes from any direction; wind and rain protection.
5 — resistance to water jets; protection from heavy rains, storms.
6 — short-term ingress of large volumes of water is allowed — for example, when a wave hits.
7 — the possibility of short-term immersion under water to a shallow depth (up to 1 m).
8 — the ability to work at a depth of 1 m and for a longer time.

One of the numbers can be replaced by the letter X — this usually means that the device does not have official certification in the corresponding direction of protection. In some cases, this suggests that there is no such protection at all — for example, the IP2X case is most likely not designed for any water ingress at all. However, it can be the other way around — for example, IPX7: a housing with the ability to submerge under water will certainly be well protected from dust, even if this is not officially announced.

Of course, it is worth choosing an option for this parameter, first of all, taking into account the expected operating conditions: for example, for a dry utility room, water protection is useless (it will only cost extra money), but in a damp basement, such a case can be very out of place. However, note that no protection provides absolute guarantees and does not eliminate the need to comply with safety rules.

The presence in the design of the stabilizer of a special handle for carrying the device from place to place. This feature is useful primarily for powerful and, accordingly, heavy devices, which would be inconvenient to hold directly by the case. And in the most "weighty" models, which are not designed to be carried alone, there are several handles.