Comparison Pro-Craft PE-1150 vs Rostov Don RRE-1250

The total power consumed by the electric planer during operation. The more powerful the tool, the generally higher its productivity and the better it is suitable for large volumes of work and/or hardwoods. Here, however, it must be taken into account that the effective power (the power supplied by the unit directly to the working tool) is anyway lower than the consumed one, but it is far from always indicated. Therefore, it is quite possible to compare different models with each other precisely in terms of power consumption.

Note that more power means higher electricity consumption, and also, most often, more weight and cost of the tool. Therefore, it does not always make sense to chase the most powerful units. So, for occasional use and small volumes of work, a power of 500-600 W is considered quite sufficient; for regular work on relatively soft wood, 700-800 W is enough, and professional models have a power of more than 1000 W.

The greatest thickness of the layer of material that the planer can remove in one pass (most often the design provides for depth adjustment). The larger this parameter, the more performant the tool will be and the better it will be suitable for large-scale work. On the other hand, in fact it is rarely necessary to remove a large amount of material at a time, and tools capable of this require powerful (and therefore expensive) motors. Therefore, in most consumer-level models, the planing depth does not exceed 2 mm; more "deeper" units, usually, belong to the professional class.

The greatest depth of the groove that can be cut into the workpiece with a planer.

Grooves are narrow and long slots used, in particular, for tenoning wooden parts. Some models of electric planers are equipped with special tools that make it easier to cut grooves.

The number of V-grooves provided in the design of the tool.

V-shaped grooves are located on the sole of the tool in the longitudinal direction. They are used to chamfer the corners of the workpiece, serving as a kind of guide: the tool is “put on” by the groove on the corner being machined and moves along the workpiece so that the corner constantly maintains contact with the groove. It is much easier to keep the planer level with this way of working than with a solid flat sole; this is especially true in cases where the workpiece cannot be turned "angle up" and the planer has to be kept in an inclined position.

Also note that this function is intended only for the first pass along the corner, then you have to work in the classical way, with a flat sole — however, with a sufficient depth of the V-shaped groove, the chamfer can be removed immediately, in the first pass. Actually, this is the point of having several grooves in the design — in such cases they have different depths and can be useful for different chamfer sizes. The maximum number of grooves found in modern electric planers is three ; using more in a hand tool just doesn't make sense.

The design of knives intended for use with a planer and, usually, supplied as standard. The type of knives does not affect the performance of the tool, but in the case of dullness or nicks, the methods for correcting the situation differ significantly.

— Unilateral. As the name suggests, these knives are sharpened on one side only. If defects appear on the blade, it can be removed and sharpened or the edge straightened. Technically, such an operation can be carried out many times, but it requires not only time, but also appropriate skills and equipment.

— Bilateral. Knives sharpened on both sides are very convenient due to the fact that when the edge becomes dull or serrated, it is enough to remove the knife and install it on the other side, with a “fresh” blade. On the other hand, such blades do not allow sharpening — when the second side of the knife becomes unusable, the only option is to replace it.