Comparison FINLAND 1504 vs Truper PIR-P

The total length of the shovel blade. In the case of "digging" shovels (for example, bayonet, see "Form"), this size actually determines the depth to which you can dig at once; in the case of "loading" models (for example, scoops), the total area and, accordingly, the capacity of the canvas depends on the length.

It is worth noting that for each type of shovels there are certain standards for the size of the canvas. However, different models of the same type and shape can vary markedly in length. At the same time, if the length is too short, more movements will have to be done, and if the canvas is too large, it will be heavy and bulky and will require increased effort when working. Therefore, when choosing, it is worth considering the features of the intended application: for example, a relatively short blade will be enough for a small country flower bed, and a larger shovel will come in handy for working in a large garden. Recommendations for more specific tasks can be found in special sources.

The total width of the shovel blade.

The value of this parameter will be different depending on what the shovel is used for — digging, loading / unloading bulk materials or snow removal. In the first case (for example, in bayonet shovels), the width of the pit being dug depends on the size of the canvas. It doesn't always have to be large, and a wide blade experiences more resistance, meaning a large shovel isn't always the best choice. For example, drainage cloths (see "Form") are initially made narrow.

In the second case (shovel shovels), a large width allows you to scoop up more cargo, however, this cargo will weigh accordingly. Therefore, here the difference between different models is most often not very large — most of the canvases have a width in the range of 220 – 260 mm.

In the third case (snow shovels and scrapers), the large width allows you to capture more snow at a time, which is convenient in large open spaces. But for difficult conditions with an abundance of narrow passages and tight nooks and crannies, it is better to choose a narrower tool that can go where a wide canvas does not fit.

Blade thickness.

With the same material (see above), the thicker the canvas, the stronger and more reliable it is, and at the same time, the greater its weight and the more expensive the shovel will cost. Therefore, it makes sense to specifically look for models with a large web thickness for heavy work — digging up dense soils, cleaning a large amount of old snow, etc. At the same time, the minimum for full-size steel shovels is 1.5 mm, the maximum is only 2 mm, it simply does not make sense to make blades thicker. But in plastic models, this figure can reach 3 mm and even more.

The hardness of the steel from which the shovel blade is made. The most popular designation is Rockwell, in HRC units; moreover, the larger the number in the designation, the harder the steel.

The shovel blade should be hard enough not to bend under loads and more or less keep sharpening (if any); at the same time, too hard metal tends to crumble, and under load it can crack. Thus, there is a certain range of hardness in which shovel blades are produced. For example, the Soviet GOST 19596-87 of the 1989 model, which is still in force in many countries of the former USSR, provides a range of 37 ... 53 HRC for garden and construction shovels for "digging" purposes (bayonet and rectangular) and 35 ... 51 HRC for all others types. However, there are also harder shovels on the market — up to 55 HRC: this is the maximum hardness value at which the blade will bend rather than break. And the minimum value actually found on the modern market is about 42 HRC.

In general, if a shovel is purchased for simple work — digging soft soil in small volumes, loading / unloading not very heavy and dense materials — you can ignore this parameter, because. even the softest "shovel" steel is likely to be quite reliable. But if serious tasks are planned, such as working in dense clay soils, it is worth finding a harder tool.

— Wood. Even inexpensive types of wood are for the most part quite strong and reliable, especially since the stalk can be made quite thick. At the same time, this material is also durable — the service life of a wooden handle is often comparable to the service life of the canvas itself. However compared with steel (see below), such handles are considered less reliable, not least because they are always made removable. On the other hand, a broken or too long / short handle can be easily replaced with a new one. Also, we note that wood has a relatively low thermal conductivity and does not cool hands as much as metal, and in general it is pleasant to the touch.

— Steel. Steel handle, usually, is used in shovels with a blade of the same material (there are exceptions, but extremely rare); moreover, in most cases, such a handle is welded or riveted to the canvas and can only be detached by breaking it off from the tool. The main advantage of steel is its high strength, garden / construction shovels of this type are better suited for work with high loads than tools with wooden handles. In addition, this material is suitable for foldable touring/automobile models (see "Type"). At the same time, steel cuttings are noticeably heavier than wooden ones, and long work with such a shovel requires more strength and endurance. In addition, steel is noticeably more expensive, it is extremely difficult to change su...ch handles (and most often it is simply unjustified), and if the handle breaks, the entire shovel becomes unusable. So it makes sense to specifically look for a full-size shovel with a steel handle, first of all, for complex work, for which the tree may not be reliable enough.

— Aluminium. Another kind of metal cuttings, permanently fixed on the canvas — similar to the steel ones described above. As for the properties, aluminium, on the one hand, is noticeably lighter than steel, on the other hand, it is not so strong and may not be suitable for heavy work.

— Plastic. The main advantages of plastic are lightness and low cost. In addition, it, like wood, does not get too cold hands at low air temperatures, making it excellent for snow removal tools (see "Type"). But full-sized construction / garden shovels with plastic handles are rare and are intended mainly for use where no special loads are planned — the strength of plastic, especially in inexpensive models, is rather low.

— Without a cutting. Shovels that are not equipped with cuttings at all and are sold in the form of a canvas with a shell. The main advantage of this configuration is that the handle can be chosen at your discretion; this is especially useful in cases where standard handles are not suitable for one reason or another (for example, if the user is tall and the stock handles are almost all too short). Most of these models require use with a wooden handle and do not allow other materials; however, this point cannot be called particularly critical.

The presence of a rubberized handle in the design of the shovel.

Rubber by itself is too soft to be used as a base material for a pen. Therefore, in this case, most often means a rubber pad on the handle. Such pads are designed to ensure that the handle is comfortable to hold, does not slip and does not cool the hands. They are found only in shovels with metal handles, made of aluminium or plastic (see "Shank material") — this function is not relevant for wooden handles (in particular, they are quite convenient on their own).

The total length of the shovel; for models with variable length (folding or telescopic, see above), the maximum size is taken into account, when unfolded to the maximum position.

In the case of full size shovels (garden shovels, construction shovels, snow shovels — see "Type"), the optimal length depends primarily on the height of the user. It is believed that a shovel, placed vertically, should be 10 cm below the shoulder joint; however, some prefer a shorter tool — up to the elbow. If you do not have the opportunity to “try on” the shovel “live”, you can measure the height to the desired point (10 cm below the shoulder or elbow) and, when choosing, compare this height with the length of the tool. Note that a shovel without a handle (see above) may well be somewhat longer than necessary — the “surplus” of the handle usually does not create any particular inconvenience. But in the presence of a handle, length matching is extremely important.

If we are talking about small shovels for tourist / automotive purposes, then here we should proceed from a compromise between efficiency and compactness. A shorter shovel will be more convenient to store and transport, but may be inconvenient and ineffective for heavy work (both because of the inconvenience in the hands and because of the short lever length, which requires considerable effort).