Comparison Voopoo Drag Nano Pod Kit vs SMOK Mico Pod Kit

The volume of the liquid tank provided in the design of the atomizer. Note that this parameter can be specified even for squonk atomizers (see "Filling type"): although they work with an external tank, however, a certain amount of "liquid" can fit in the evaporator itself.

The larger the tank, the more liquid you can keep in an electronic cigarette and the less often you have to refill it. On the other hand, capacious tanks have the appropriate dimensions, and too large a tank would be inconvenient, and liquids are consumed relatively little even in one long session of soaring. As a result, a volume of more than 6 mL is already considered quite large for vapes, and in the smallest models this figure does not exceed 2 mL.

Also note that when choosing a tank capacity, manufacturers usually take into account the resistance of the spiral, the power of the battery (if it is included) and other parameters that affect the expected flow rate of the liquid. There is no hard dependency here, however, in general, more powerful atomizers are usually equipped with larger tanks.

— Upper. The traditional type of filling was initially quite popular, but now such atomizers are gradually giving way to bottom filling models. The main advantage of this option is the ability to pour liquid without turning the atomizer over and without removing the flask from the battery mod. However refilling usually requires disassembly — for example, unscrewing the cap with the mouthpiece.

— Lower. This option assumes that for refueling, you need to turn the atomizer upside down and pour liquid from the bottom side. At first glance, this procedure is less convenient than top filling, but it provides an important advantage for serviced heaters: if necessary, you can remove and rewind the base without draining the liquid from the tank. Note that squonk format drip atomizers are formally also refueled from below, however, they have their own specifics, therefore they do not belong to this category and are allocated separately; see below for details.

— Side. Refueling through a special hole in the side of the atomizer. Like the top one, this design allows you not to remove the flask from the battery mod; the opening usually opens and closes easily and quickly, without the need, for example, to unscrew the cap. This option is quite popular in baco drips (see "Type of atomizer"), althou...gh it is also found in other varieties.

— Squonk. A specific type of bottom filling used in models with drip atomizers (see "Type of atomizer"). These vapes have a rather large e-liquid reservoir installed in the battery mod, and each time you press a special button (or the elastic wall of the reservoir), the liquid is fed into the atomizer in small portions directly through the connector. This design eliminates the main drawback of drip atomizers — the need to constantly add liquid manually, "drop by drop": instead of the hassle of manual refueling, it is enough to periodically press the button. At the same time, most of these evaporators allow installation on a regular battery mod, without a squonk — for this, the kit provides a replaceable connector of a standard design, without a channel for supplying liquid; and on battery mods with a squonk, usually, you can put ordinary atomizers without restrictions. The disadvantages of this option can be somewhat higher cost than analogues with traditional types of refueling.

The smallest resistance of the heating coil of an electronic cigarette.

The meaning of this parameter will be different, depending on which part of the device is in question (see "Type"). So, for atomizers, this parameter is given if spare heaters are supplied in the kit — accordingly, it is indicated for the “head” with the lowest resistance. For a battery mod, this is the smallest resistance that can be connected to it. And in starter kits, the minimum resistance is also usually indicated by the battery mod; low-resistance "heads" in such cases may or may not be included in the delivery.

Anyway, data on the minimum resistance is important in the mutual selection of an atomizer and a battery mod (including when creating custom windings) — connecting an atomizer with too low resistance is fraught with overloads and various unpleasant consequences, up to fire. However, this parameter is of particular importance for lovers of the so-called subohm — soaring at a low heater resistance (up to 1 ohm), which allows you to achieve high steam saturation (when the resistance decreases, the power increases). Not all batteries are capable of working with sub-ohm heaters, so the suitability of a battery mod for such vaping needs to be clarified.

The highest resistance of the electronic cigarette heating coil.

The meaning of this parameter will be different, depending on which part of the device is in question (see "Type"). For an atomizer, this can be either the resistance of the complete heater, or, if there are several “heads” in the kit, the resistance of the highest-resistance replaceable coil. For a battery mod, the highest resistance is indicated at which the battery is able to deliver sufficient power for operation. For the starter set, the data is usually given according to the battery mode, while the resistance of the complete heater (heaters) may be lower than the maximum.

Data on the maximum and minimum (see above) resistance is necessary, first of all, to select an atomizer and a battery mod that are compatible with each other. The atomizer must fall within the operating range of the battery mod, otherwise the battery will either be overloaded (if the evaporator resistance is too low), or simply will not provide the desired degree of heating (if it is too high).

The battery capacity of an e-cigarette or separately sold battery mod. This parameter is indicated only for models with non-removable batteries (see "Battery type"): replaceable cells can be produced in different capacities.

The larger the battery, the longer you can use the device without recharging the battery. However the actual power consumption and, accordingly, the battery life of different models will be different, therefore, only devices with similar operating voltages and atomizer resistances can be compared in terms of capacity.

In general, if battery life is important to you, it is quite possible to proceed from the principle “the more capacious the battery, the better”; and to save money, you can choose a relatively weak battery. It is also worth mentioning that there are schemes for calculating the optimal battery capacity depending on the power, atomizer resistance, etc.; these schemes can be found in special sources.

The maximum power supplied by the battery.

This is one of the main parameters of the battery pack that determines its compatibility with the atomizer. Starter kits (see "Type"), by definition, include atomizers that are optimally suited to a given battery in terms of power, and this parameter is mainly of reference value. But when choosing components separately, you should pay special attention to it. Higher power allows you to achieve more saturated steam, but only up to certain limits — too much heating leads to a deterioration in taste, and even burning of the wick (which, all the more, does not contribute to improving the sensation of soaring). So the atomizer must normally transfer the power of the battery, otherwise, at best, you will have to constantly limit the power with the help of a varivolt or variwatt (see "Battery mod"), and at worst, normal use will be impossible at all.

Note that for classic evaporator tanks with one spiral, power up to 40 W is considered sufficient; more powerful batteries are designed mainly for advanced serviced models, drip atomizers and bacodrips(see "Type of atomizer") that have more than one coil and, accordingly, are more high consumption in terms of energy consumption. Also note that the actual heating power depends on the voltage, and in fact it may be lower than the claimed one, depending on the resistance of the atomizer. See “Maximum voltage".

The lowest voltage that the battery mod can supply to the atomizer.

The meaning of this parameter depends on the type of battery mod and the functions of the board (see above). So, in mechanical and simple electronic modes, the smallest value to which the battery voltage can drop before it turns off and requires charging is usually indicated here. Knowing this parameter, as well as the resistance of the atomizer, you can calculate the minimum guaranteed vaping power.

If we are talking about a mod with adjustments like varivolt or variwatt, then the minimum voltage is also the lowest voltage that can be set manually in the settings. This may be necessary to reduce the power and, accordingly, the intensity of soaring — for example, if the gas station has a very rich taste, and abundant dense steam would be overkill. In adjustable battery packs, the lower the minimum voltage (with the same maximum voltage), the wider the adjustment range, the more options the vaper has to adjust the vaping parameters. See “Maximum voltage".

The highest voltage that the battery mod can supply to the atomizer.

Knowing the minimum (see above) and maximum voltage, it is possible to estimate the heating power that the battery is able to provide at a certain resistance of the atomizer. For example, if we have a battery mod with a voltage range of 3.3 – 4.8 V and an atomizer with a 1.8 Ohm coil, then the current strength at the minimum voltage will be 3.3 / 1.8 ≈ 1.8 A, and at maximum 4.8 / 1.8 ≈ 2.7 A. Accordingly, the smallest heating power will be 3.3 * 1.8 ≈ 6 W, and the largest 4.8 * 2.7 ≈ 13 W. In this case, the nominal power of the battery can be higher, but not vice versa — the actual power cannot be more than the nominal. Let's say, theoretically, the battery from our example, combined with a 0.15 Ohm sub-ohm atomizer, even at the minimum voltage, should produce a current of 3.3 / 0.15 = 22 A and a power of 3.3 * 22 = 72.6 W. However, if a power of 50 W is claimed in the characteristics, then higher values \u200b\u200bare impossible to achieve, even if you unscrew the regulator to the maximum — at low resistances, the voltage at the battery output drops sharply.

The material from which the flask of the complete atomizer is made. Most often, it means the material from which the transparent insert in the body (usually steel) is made, with the exception of all-steel flasks, see below for more details about them.

— Glass. The most popular flask material in modern vapes. The glass does more than just allow you to see the contents of the flask — this transparency is maintained for a long time, as the glass surface is highly resistant to scratches. In addition, the walls of the flask are chemically inert, they do not react with the "slurry", whatever its composition; and the fragility of the walls is compensated by their thickness, and sometimes by special additives in the composition of the glass. This material is somewhat more expensive than plastic, but in fact this difference is insignificant.

— Plastic. Plastic flasks, like glass, are usually made transparent, which allows you to monitor the amount of liquid; at the same time, they are much cheaper, it is very difficult to break such a container, and fragments from plastic are not as dangerous as glass ones. At the same time, this material is easily covered with scratches and quickly becomes cloudy during use. In addition, some types of plastic (especially inexpensive ones) can react with substances that make up e-liquids (manufacturers of both flasks and refills try to avoid this phenomenon, but...a full guarantee cannot be given). As a result, this option is not particularly popular, it is typical mainly for low-cost devices created with the expectation of maximum cost reduction.

— Stainless steel. Stainless steel flasks are notable primarily for their high strength — even under a very strong load, the steel tank is more likely to flatten than crack. Yes, and resistance to corrosion can also be written down as advantages. At the same time, this material has a critical drawback that negates all its advantages — it is opaque. As a result, it is possible to monitor the liquid level in such a flask only by indirect signs — for example, by changing the taste or the amount of steam. This, to put it mildly, is inconvenient, so steel flasks are used extremely rarely — and not so much for practical reasons, but as an element of unusual design.