Comparison Ovns W01 Pod Kit vs Ovns Saber S Pod

The volume of the liquid tank provided in the design of the atomizer. Note that this parameter can be specified even for squonk atomizers (see "Filling type"): although they work with an external tank, however, a certain amount of "liquid" can fit in the evaporator itself.

The larger the tank, the more liquid you can keep in an electronic cigarette and the less often you have to refill it. On the other hand, capacious tanks have the appropriate dimensions, and too large a tank would be inconvenient, and liquids are consumed relatively little even in one long session of soaring. As a result, a volume of more than 6 mL is already considered quite large for vapes, and in the smallest models this figure does not exceed 2 mL.

Also note that when choosing a tank capacity, manufacturers usually take into account the resistance of the spiral, the power of the battery (if it is included) and other parameters that affect the expected flow rate of the liquid. There is no hard dependency here, however, in general, more powerful atomizers are usually equipped with larger tanks.

— Upper. The traditional type of filling was initially quite popular, but now such atomizers are gradually giving way to bottom filling models. The main advantage of this option is the ability to pour liquid without turning the atomizer over and without removing the flask from the battery mod. However refilling usually requires disassembly — for example, unscrewing the cap with the mouthpiece.

— Lower. This option assumes that for refueling, you need to turn the atomizer upside down and pour liquid from the bottom side. At first glance, this procedure is less convenient than top filling, but it provides an important advantage for serviced heaters: if necessary, you can remove and rewind the base without draining the liquid from the tank. Note that squonk format drip atomizers are formally also refueled from below, however, they have their own specifics, therefore they do not belong to this category and are allocated separately; see below for details.

— Side. Refueling through a special hole in the side of the atomizer. Like the top one, this design allows you not to remove the flask from the battery mod; the opening usually opens and closes easily and quickly, without the need, for example, to unscrew the cap. This option is quite popular in baco drips (see "Type of atomizer"), althou...gh it is also found in other varieties.

— Squonk. A specific type of bottom filling used in models with drip atomizers (see "Type of atomizer"). These vapes have a rather large e-liquid reservoir installed in the battery mod, and each time you press a special button (or the elastic wall of the reservoir), the liquid is fed into the atomizer in small portions directly through the connector. This design eliminates the main drawback of drip atomizers — the need to constantly add liquid manually, "drop by drop": instead of the hassle of manual refueling, it is enough to periodically press the button. At the same time, most of these evaporators allow installation on a regular battery mod, without a squonk — for this, the kit provides a replaceable connector of a standard design, without a channel for supplying liquid; and on battery mods with a squonk, usually, you can put ordinary atomizers without restrictions. The disadvantages of this option can be somewhat higher cost than analogues with traditional types of refueling.

The battery capacity of an e-cigarette or separately sold battery mod. This parameter is indicated only for models with non-removable batteries (see "Battery type"): replaceable cells can be produced in different capacities.

The larger the battery, the longer you can use the device without recharging the battery. However the actual power consumption and, accordingly, the battery life of different models will be different, therefore, only devices with similar operating voltages and atomizer resistances can be compared in terms of capacity.

In general, if battery life is important to you, it is quite possible to proceed from the principle “the more capacious the battery, the better”; and to save money, you can choose a relatively weak battery. It is also worth mentioning that there are schemes for calculating the optimal battery capacity depending on the power, atomizer resistance, etc.; these schemes can be found in special sources.

The maximum power supplied by the battery.

This is one of the main parameters of the battery pack that determines its compatibility with the atomizer. Starter kits (see "Type"), by definition, include atomizers that are optimally suited to a given battery in terms of power, and this parameter is mainly of reference value. But when choosing components separately, you should pay special attention to it. Higher power allows you to achieve more saturated steam, but only up to certain limits — too much heating leads to a deterioration in taste, and even burning of the wick (which, all the more, does not contribute to improving the sensation of soaring). So the atomizer must normally transfer the power of the battery, otherwise, at best, you will have to constantly limit the power with the help of a varivolt or variwatt (see "Battery mod"), and at worst, normal use will be impossible at all.

Note that for classic evaporator tanks with one spiral, power up to 40 W is considered sufficient; more powerful batteries are designed mainly for advanced serviced models, drip atomizers and bacodrips(see "Type of atomizer") that have more than one coil and, accordingly, are more high consumption in terms of energy consumption. Also note that the actual heating power depends on the voltage, and in fact it may be lower than the claimed one, depending on the resistance of the atomizer. See “Maximum voltage".

The lowest voltage that the battery mod can supply to the atomizer.

The meaning of this parameter depends on the type of battery mod and the functions of the board (see above). So, in mechanical and simple electronic modes, the smallest value to which the battery voltage can drop before it turns off and requires charging is usually indicated here. Knowing this parameter, as well as the resistance of the atomizer, you can calculate the minimum guaranteed vaping power.

If we are talking about a mod with adjustments like varivolt or variwatt, then the minimum voltage is also the lowest voltage that can be set manually in the settings. This may be necessary to reduce the power and, accordingly, the intensity of soaring — for example, if the gas station has a very rich taste, and abundant dense steam would be overkill. In adjustable battery packs, the lower the minimum voltage (with the same maximum voltage), the wider the adjustment range, the more options the vaper has to adjust the vaping parameters. See “Maximum voltage".

The highest voltage that the battery mod can supply to the atomizer.

Knowing the minimum (see above) and maximum voltage, it is possible to estimate the heating power that the battery is able to provide at a certain resistance of the atomizer. For example, if we have a battery mod with a voltage range of 3.3 – 4.8 V and an atomizer with a 1.8 Ohm coil, then the current strength at the minimum voltage will be 3.3 / 1.8 ≈ 1.8 A, and at maximum 4.8 / 1.8 ≈ 2.7 A. Accordingly, the smallest heating power will be 3.3 * 1.8 ≈ 6 W, and the largest 4.8 * 2.7 ≈ 13 W. In this case, the nominal power of the battery can be higher, but not vice versa — the actual power cannot be more than the nominal. Let's say, theoretically, the battery from our example, combined with a 0.15 Ohm sub-ohm atomizer, even at the minimum voltage, should produce a current of 3.3 / 0.15 = 22 A and a power of 3.3 * 22 = 72.6 W. However, if a power of 50 W is claimed in the characteristics, then higher values \u200b\u200bare impossible to achieve, even if you unscrew the regulator to the maximum — at low resistances, the voltage at the battery output drops sharply.

The material from which the body of the device is made.

This parameter is relevant primarily for battery mods: they can be made from a wide variety of materials, while atomizers do not differ in variety (the standard option is stainless steel, with a few exceptions; see below for details). Actually, for ready-made kits (including POD systems, see "Type"), this paragraph just indicates the material of the battery mod. Here is a more detailed description of specific options:

— Stainless steel. Perhaps the most popular material for electronic cigarettes and their components — of all types and price categories. At a relatively low cost, stainless steel is strong, reliable, durable and not subject to scratches and corrosion. Of the shortcomings of this material, one can only note a rather large weight, but some, on the contrary, consider this moment an advantage: a massive metal case gives the impression of solidity and quality. Also, steel, like any metal, can cool the skin at low air temperatures and slide in the hands; however, in order to avoid all this, various linings (for example, made of rubber or soft-touch plastic) can be provided on the case to eliminate this drawback.

— Zinc alloy. Another fairly popular material, which is actually a compromise between stainless steel and aluminium. Zinc weighs less than steel and costs less than aluminium alloys; at the same time, this...material perfectly resists corrosion and has high strength, which led to its prevalence.

— Aluminium. Perhaps the most advanced metal in terms of practical characteristics: aluminium is light, strong and absolutely insensitive to corrosion. Its main disadvantage is a rather high price, while the described advantages are rarely decisive in comparison with the same steel or zinc. Therefore, aluminium cases are quite rare; at the same time, it is worth noting that this material is found not only in battery mods, but also in atomizers.

— Plastic. Inexpensive material, which also has a small weight and is able to take on a wide variety of colours. However, this is where the advantages of plastic, in fact, are exhausted: in terms of strength and scratch resistance, it is noticeably inferior to metals, and it can melt from strong heat. However there are advanced grades of plastic, but instead of them, most manufacturers prefer to use steel or other metal in vapes. As a result, plastic cases are rare, and mostly among entry-level models.

— Copper. The material used mainly as a design material — to give the case an unusual appearance (copper has a characteristic reddish tint). From the point of view of practical properties, such cases are similar to steel ones — in particular, they are strong, massive and scratch resistant. On the other hand, copper tolerates moisture worse, stains can appear on it even from constant contact with the skin. However, the main drawback of this material is its high price, which determined the specifics of its application.

— Brass. Another metal used primarily for aesthetic rather than practical reasons. It is similar in properties to copper described above and differs only in colour (shades of yellow) and somewhat greater resistance to oxidation (although it all depends on the specific type of brass).

— Wood. Wooden cases look interesting due to the characteristic colours and patterns. At the same time, this material is not very practical: it is prone to cracks and splits from impacts, it is easily scratched, and it can swell and warp from prolonged exposure to moisture. In addition, wooden cases are quite expensive (in part, this is a payment for the style). So, choosing a battery mod in such a design is worth it only in cases where the ability to “stand out from the crowd” is more important for you than the shortcomings described.

— Ceramics, Special high-strength ceramics are highly resistant to wear: such a case is very difficult to scratch, so it looks like new for a long time. On the other hand, this material may crack on impact (whereas metal is more likely to only slightly bend). Therefore, ceramic cases are extremely rare — especially since they are not cheap.