United Kingdom
Catalog   /   Photo   /   Flashes

Comparison Yongnuo YN650EX vs Godox V1

Add to comparison
Yongnuo YN650EX
Godox V1
Yongnuo YN650EXGodox V1
Compare prices 2Compare prices 53
TOP sellers
Main
Even light from a round head. Full TTL support. 1/10 stop power control. pilot light. Own battery. Magnets around the perimeter of the head for attachment attachments. Compatible with all major systems.
Typeon camera flasheson camera flashes
LED
Camera compatibility
Canon
 
Nikon
 
 
 
 
Canon
Fuji
Nikon
Olympus
Panasonic
Pentax
Sony
Specs
Guide number60
76 /ISO 100/
Reload time1.5 sec1.5 sec
Number of impulses480
Pulse duration1/200 – 1/20000 c1/300 - 1/20000 c
TTL
E-TTL, I-TTL /mode available only for Nikon and Canon/
E-TTL, I-TTL, TTL
Power management
 /1/1 — 1/2 — 1/4 — 1/8 — 1/16 — 1/32 — 1/64 — 1/128/
 /1/1 - 1/128/
Beam angle28 - 200 mm28 - 105 mm
Power dissipation2 W76 W
Colour temperature5600
Rotary head
Head anglevertically - 97 degrees, horizontally - 360 degreesvertically - 127 degrees, horizontally - 330 degrees
Features
autofocus illumination
camera control
automatic zoom
manual zoom
wireless control
master mode
slave mode
 
autofocus illumination
 
automatic zoom
manual zoom
 
master mode
slave mode
stroboscope
General
Screen
Screen backlight
Power source4xAAbattery
Dimensions76х93х197 mm
Weight430 g530 g
Added to E-Catalogjanuary 2022july 2020

LED

Flashes of this type use one or more diodes as a light source. Usually, LED-light is significantly inferior to xenon illumination in terms of luminous flux intensity, but at the same time it boasts high energy efficiency and reliability. LED flashes are mainly used as stationary lighting and are found in macro photography ( LED ring flashes) and on- camera.

Camera compatibility

Camera models that the flash can work with. Note that this parameter is usually indicated in the characteristics very approximately — only camera manufacturers are named, but there is no talk of models as such. Therefore, before purchasing a flash, it makes sense to separately clarify whether it will work normally with your camera — for example, on the manufacturer's website or thematic forums. This is especially true for devices from third-party manufacturers — for such models, the likelihood of problems is somewhat higher than for “native” flash cameras. At the same time, devices from the same company usually have the same requirements for connecting flashes, and therefore this parameter is with a fairly high degree of accuracy allows you to evaluate compatibility.

If the specifications of the flash indicate compatibility with several brands of cameras, this usually means that this model is available in several variations, each of which is designed for a different manufacturer.

It is worth noting that the "non-native" camera and flash may be quite compatible and work fine in most shooting modes. Nevertheless, support for TTL (see below) and a number of other specific functions in this case is usually out of the question, and in general, the reliability and efficiency of this combination is lower than that of a camera with a "native" flash. Therefore, it is better to choose all the same accessories with directly claimed compatibility.

Of t...he compatible cameras currently in use: Canon, Fuji, Leica, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax, Samsung, Sigma, Sony.

Guide number

The guide number is the main characteristic that describes the power of the light pulse of the flash. It is described as the maximum distance (in metres) at which, at ISO 100 and f/1 lens speed (aperture 1), a flash is able to illuminate an "average" subject sufficiently for a normal exposure; in other words, at what distance from the flash it will be possible to normally shoot the scene at the specified ISO and aperture.

There are formulas by which, knowing the guide number, you can derive the practical shooting distance for each specific value of sensitivity and aperture. The simplest formula used to calculate the distance at ISO 100 is: S=N/f, where S is the distance, N is the guide number, f is the aperture value. For example, for a guide number of 56 and an f/2.8 lens, this distance would be 56/2.8 = 20 m. Increasing or decreasing sensitivity by a factor of 2 would increase or decrease the specified distance by approximately 1.4 times, respectively. If you need to calculate the distance as accurately as possible, you should refer to more detailed formulas that can be found in specialized sources.

Separately, it is worth noting that the leading numbers of flashes, usually, are indicated by manufacturers for specific focal lengths of lenses. This is due to the fact that the shorter the focal length and, accordingly, the wider the viewing angle, the more light is needed to illuminate the scene being shot and the more powerful the flash pulse should b...e (at the same distance). Therefore, when choosing by the guide number, it makes sense to pay attention to the focal length indicated by the manufacturer and select a model with a power reserve — especially since guide numbers are often prescribed for rather “long-range” lenses (with a focal length of about 80-100 mm in equiv. 35 mm).

Number of impulses

The number of flashes that the flash can fire without recharging the battery or changing batteries (see "Power"). This parameter is very approximate, because. in fact, it strongly depends on a number of factors: pulse duration, use of the display and its backlight (if any, see below), autofocus backlight (see "Features"), etc., and with replaceable batteries — even and on their quality. Often, manufacturers indicate in the characteristics the “perfect”, the maximum possible number of pulses — i.e. with their minimum duration, non-use of additional functions and even the optimal temperature regime for the battery. In reality, this figure may be lower. Nevertheless, the data indicated in the characteristics makes it quite possible to evaluate the battery life of the flash and even compare different models with each other.

Pulse duration

The duration of the pulse of light provided by the flash. This indicator can range from thousandths to hundred thousandths of a second; it is usually expressed as a fractional number with a unit in the numerator, such as 1/880 s. The human eye does not notice the difference, but in some shooting modes it can become critical. For example, to capture fast-moving scenes (such as splashing water, the flight of an insect, or the movement of machine parts) you need to choose a flash with the shortest flash duration possible — otherwise the image may be blurry.

The longest pulse duration in modern photoflashes is about 1/800 s; the minimum value can reach 1/30,000 s or even less.

TTL

Flash units with TTL support. TTL is an abbreviation for "through the lens", i.e. "through the lens"; this is the name of the method of measuring exposure by the amount of light that passes directly through the camera lens.

In digital photography, TTL works like a pre-flash: before the main exposure, the flash fires one or more test flashes. The amount of light coming from the object being filmed is measured by special sensors, based on these data, the control electronics sets the necessary shooting parameters, after which the actual exposure takes place. This allows you to fine-tune the camera and get an image of optimal quality. The interval between the test and operating pulses is so small that it may not be visible to the naked eye at all (especially when the flash is synchronized with the front curtain or with a slow shutter speed).

Many modern camera manufacturers have their own developments and varieties of TTL technology, respectively, differing in name: for example, Canon has E-TTL and E-TTL II, Nikon has D-TTL (in early models) and i-TTL (in later ones) , Pentax has P-TTL, etc. Support for one or another variety is directly related to the compatibility of the flash with cameras (see above), and different formats are usually not compatible with each other.

Beam angle

The angle at which the main beam of light from the flash diverges. This parameter is not expressed directly, in degrees, but in terms of the focal lengths of the corresponding lenses, in millimetres: for example, a beam angle of 105 mm corresponds to the angle of view of a lens with the same focal length (35 mm equivalent). This makes it easy to select a flash for specific optics, so that it most effectively illuminates all the space in the frame. And the most advanced modern flashes can have a variable dispersion angle, allowing you to adjust them to different shooting features; this feature is especially useful when using zoom lenses. Changing the angle of dispersion is carried out by a movable lens installed in the flash head, it can be carried out both automatically and manually (for more details, see "Functions and Capabilities").

Power dissipation

Dissipated power of the on-camera light source (see "Type"). For traditional pulse flashes, this parameter is not indicated due to irrelevance.

Dissipated power describes the amount of energy that, during operation of a luminaire, is not spent on light radiation, but is dissipated in the surrounding air in the form of heat. Simply put, we are talking about the heat dissipation of the device. Although most modern LEDs are very energy efficient, it is still impossible to achieve 100% efficiency in them — some part of the energy inevitably goes to heat; and given that the number of LEDs in modern on-camera light sources can reach several hundred, then the heat release can be quite noticeable — at the level of tens of watts.

First of all, the overall efficiency of the device depends on this indicator: with equal brightness values \u200b\u200b(see above), a model with a higher power dissipation will inevitably consume more energy. In addition, high heat dissipation may require special cooling systems — including active, using fans; and this further increases energy consumption, and also affects the price, weight, dimensions and noise level generated by the lamp. However, in most cases, these points do not play a special role, and it is worth looking specifically for an on-camera lamp with a minimum power dissipation if efficiency and low heat generation are fundamental to you.

Colour temperature

The colour temperature of the light emitted by the device. Most of the classic flashes have a standard colour temperature of 5500-5600 K, so this parameter is usually not given for such lamps. But on-camera light sources (see "Type") can differ markedly in this indicator, and we will talk about them.

Colour temperature characterizes the overall shade of the glow emitted by the device. At the same time, an interesting nuance is that low values \u200b\u200bcorrespond to colours that a person perceives as warm; and as the colour temperature rises, the hue shifts more and more towards cool colours. For example, for a 60 W incandescent lamp, the light of which has a pronounced yellowish colour, this parameter is approximately 2700 K, and for a fluorescent lamp that produces “daylight” light with a bluish tint, this parameter is about 7000 K.

In general, the colour temperature of lighting is one of the most important parameters when shooting: it determines the colour balance of the image "seen" by the camera. In camera settings, this indicator is called "white balance". It can also be determined automatically, however, for the most reliable colour reproduction, it is still desirable to set its values according to the known colour temperature of the lighting.

Specifically, in on-camera light sources, the colour temperature can be either constant or adjustable. In non-adjustable models, the value of this parameter is the same as in most flash units...— 5500 K, which corresponds approximately to neutral white. Adjustment also provides the possibility of at least lowering the colour temperature — usually up to 3200 K, which approximately corresponds to warm white light. In addition, occasionally there are models in which the maximum colour temperature exceeds 5500 K, reaching 6000 K and even more.

The ability to change the colour temperature can be useful not only for shooting as such, but also for “matching” the lamp with other light sources. The fact is that if several simultaneously used light sources have different colour temperatures, the colour rendition on the scene being shot will be unreliable — to the point that a monochromatic object illuminated by different lamps from different sides may look like a two-colour one. One way to avoid this is to set the colour temperature of the on-camera light to match the ambient light. However, it is worth noting here that the methods of adjusting the shades and the accuracy of such adjustment may be different. The most advanced option is to use two sets of LEDs, with a warm and cold shade of glow; By changing the brightness ratio between these sets, you can also change the overall colour temperature — and quite smoothly and accurately. Another way is to use coloured diffusers (see below), but here the adjustment is stepped, with fixed values (with and without a diffuser). In some devices, both of these methods are combined.
Godox V1 often compared