Comparison LTD EC-256 vs Epiphone Les Paul Studio

Type of pickups used in electric guitar.

— Passive. Passive pickups are called pickups that do not use their own power supply. Such devices produce a weak signal, so guitars with passive pickups require an external preamp. In terms of sound, many musicians consider passive pickups to be more "natural" and dynamic, but this point is largely subjective. The unequivocal advantage of this option is the extensive features for experimenting with the technique of sound extraction. In addition, passive modules are much simpler and cheaper than active modules, and they do not require their own power supplies. On the other hand, these pickups are subject to feedback, which can be problematic in some situations. Yes, and sensitivity to pickups (and, accordingly, the likelihood of interference) they are significantly higher.

— Active. Pickups supplemented with built-in preamps to increase the level of the signal fed to the output of the instrument. Thanks to the additional amplification, many models have fewer coil turns than passive models, which reduces interference and provides a cleaner and more balanced signal. At the same time, the active module retains the upper frequencies better; this gives the effect of "brightness", "transparency" of the sound. However there is an opinion that this sound turns out to be unnatural, but this moment, again, is largely subjective. But from the unequivocal disad...vantages of active pickups, one can note the need for their own power source. One of the most popular options for this is a 9V battery, which is installed in a special compartment in the body of the guitar.

The ability to disable one of the coils in a humbucking pickup.

Pickups with this feature are, in fact, universal modules that can operate in both humbucking and single-coil modes. See "Pickup Diagram" for details on both. And the ability to switch between these modes allows the musician to change the colour of the sound without resorting to external gadgets or changing instruments. For example, for a dynamic composition with rich overdrive, it is more convenient to use a classic humbucker, and for a slow, lyrical melody, just move the switch and you can enjoy all the advantages of a single-coil.

The type of tone block used in the construction of an electric guitar.

A timbre block is an “intermediary” between a pickup and a guitar output: a set of electronic circuits that provides signal transmission, and often also its processing (volume control, frequency correction, preamplification, etc.). In modern electric guitars, there are such types of tone blocks:

— Passive. Passive are called timbre blocks that do not require additional power sources during operation. Usually, such modules have the simplest design and functionality, adjustments are limited to changing the volume, as well as passively correcting frequencies (by “cutting off” the desired frequencies). At the same time, passive tone blocks are simple, compact, inexpensive and do not depend on batteries; and the necessary adjustments can be made on external equipment (anyway, the electric guitar will need to be connected to it). As a result, most modern instruments are equipped with this particular type of tone blocks.

— Active. The key difference between a passive tone block is that it needs its own power source to work. Most often, this role is played by a PP3-type battery installed in a special socket in the body of an electric guitar. The need for power is due to the abundance of additional functions: active tone blocks are able to amplify the signal coming from the pickups, suppress interference, and even match the output impedance of the inst...rument with the input of the amplifier. Yes, and the active method of tone control is more advanced than the passive one, it allows you to more accurately adjust the frequency ratio. On the other hand, active modules are noticeably more expensive, and without a battery, the tone block turns into a set of useless parts. However, such devices consume relatively little energy, and one battery lasts for quite a long time.

— Active/passive. Tone blocks that combine the capabilities of the two options described above. If there is power, such a module operates in active mode, and if there is no power, it turns into passive. Thus, the musician can enjoy all the advantages of the active tone block and at the same time not worry that the instrument will become completely useless due to a dead battery (although, of course, the tone block functionality is not so extensive in the passive mode). At the same time, combined modules are quite complex and expensive, and the real need for such versatility is rare. Therefore, this option has not received much distribution.

The number of tone controls provided in the design of an electric guitar.

One tone control is responsible for the sound of the electric guitar as a whole; but if there are several such pens, they can have different formats of work. So, each knob can be responsible either for its own pickup, or for a separate frequency band. In the second case, a set of knobs plays the role of an equalizer that allows you to adjust the sound by changing the volume of low and high (sometimes even separately middle) frequencies.

Anyway, the presence of several tone controls expands the possibilities for changing the coloring of the sound by means of the guitar itself, without the use of additional equipment.

The presence of a protective lining (pickguard) on the body of the guitar.

Such an overlay is located on the upper deck, most often made of durable plastic and differs markedly in colour, due to which it is clearly visible. Its main purpose is to protect the soundboard surface from pick strikes (for example, when playing with dynamic fighting), which could damage the varnished wooden surface. The specific shape and size of the fingerboard may vary, but anyway, it covers at least the surface below the strings (when looking at the guitar in the working position), and sometimes under the strings and even above them.

The fret is the gap between the nut on the fretboard; each such interval is responsible for its own note (the interval between the frets is half a tone). Accordingly, the more frets, the more notes you can play on one string. However, keep in mind that the width of the gaps between the nut decreases as you get closer to the bridge, and if there are a lot of frets, playing at high frets can be difficult, requiring very high accuracy.

The most popular options today are 22 or 24 frets, they are found in most electric guitars of all types. In basses, there are also a smaller number ( 20 frets and 21 frets), because. the distance between the nut on such instruments is greater, and the necks, respectively, with the same number of frets, are longer than those of guitars.

In general, paying attention to this parameter makes sense, first of all, for professional musicians, for whom a vast “space for manoeuvre” is fundamentally important.

A separate category is fretless instruments, completely devoid of nut. Almost all of them relate to bass guitars; there are also electric guitars without frets, but very rarely. In such instruments, the role of the nut is played by the musician's finger, which presses the string to the fretboard. The technique of playing fretless guitars is noticeably mor...e complicated: firstly, to extract clean notes, you need a very precise position of the finger; secondly, this design reduces the volume of the sound and the duration of the sustain, and special playing techniques may be required to obtain the sound of the desired volume (and heavier strings for basses). On the other hand, the lack of frets gives the professional musician a number of additional options. For example, on a fretless neck, you can make very smooth slides, without stepping between notes, and the instrument itself is not tied to a standard 12-step scale, which can be very useful in some areas of music (experimental, oriental, etc.). Also note that the fretless bass guitar, both in sound and playing technique, is very close to the classical double bass, which is especially appreciated by lovers of jazz and other similar styles.

Profile of a fretboard mounted on an electric guitar.

The profile of the neck is called its shape in section, more precisely, the shape of the back of the neck. This parameter practically does not affect the sound of the guitar, but it directly affects the convenience of playing. Ideally, the neck should “fill” the hand, but not be too large — otherwise it will not be possible to clasp it to the right extent.

Profiles are denoted by the letters C, D, V and U — depending on which letter the neck resembles in the section. Profile D is the flattest, C is slightly more convex, with almost uniform curvature along the entire length, U is more voluminous, with a wider profile in the area of the lining, and the V profile in its classic form has the form of an angle with a rounded top. There are also modifications of these options — for example, "thin", which provides for a reduced profile thickness, or "modern", with slightly improved (theoretically) ergonomics.

The most popular profile types are C, U and their "modern" (modern) modifications. The C profile is almost semi-circular, the U profile is more voluminous, at the fingerboard its edges are almost parallel and only closer to the back of the neck are sharply rounded. The terms modern C and modern U refer to various improved versions of these profiles, their f...orm may be different.

In fact, the choice of neck profile depends solely on the guitarist's personal preferences, the characteristics of his hands and his preferred playing technique. Thus, there is no "perfect" profile shape — in each case, the optimal choice will be different. The perfect option is to try several types of profile "live", decide which one will be more convenient, and choose an instrument with a neck of the same or similar profile shape.

The width of the fretboard of an electric guitar at the nut. Closer to the body, the neck may expand somewhat, but this is not necessary, and the expansion angle may be different. Therefore, the main size is considered to be the width in the region of the nut.

This parameter has two meanings. On the one hand, a wide neck is inconvenient for musicians with small hands and short fingers — it can be difficult to reach the far strings in such cases. On the other hand, a larger width means a greater distance between the individual strings, which reduces the likelihood of hitting an adjacent string when pressed incorrectly and can make playing easier (especially if the guitarist has large fat fingers). However, these moments are not absolute, and the convenience of playing is a very subjective matter, depending on many features of the musician and the technique he uses. Also, don't forget that necks can have different profiles (see above), and instruments with different neck profiles will feel differently in the hands even with the same width at the nut. Therefore, the most reliable method of selection is to try out the necks of different sizes and profiles “live”, decide on the best option and choose based on this.

The smallest neck width at the nut in modern electric guitars is about 39 mm. This size is found mainly in bass guitars (see “Type”), which have 4 strings and a neck that widens noticeably towards the body (due to which it can be made rather narr...ow from above, especially since when playing bass, notes are rarely clamped near the neck itself) . Electric guitars (including semi-acoustic) are somewhat wider — from 41 mm, an indicator of 43 – 48 mm is considered average, and in the largest instruments, the neck can be up to 55 mm wide (however, such dimensions are typical mainly for instruments with more than 6 strings) .

The radius of curvature of a fretboard mounted on the fretboard of an electric guitar.

The fingerboard is located directly under the strings, it is to it that the musician presses the strings when playing. If you look at the neck in cross section, its upper part with the overlay will have the shape of an arc; the radius of this arc is implied in this case. The smaller the radius, the more convex this arc will be, and vice versa, a large radius will correspond to an almost flat surface.

In general, it is believed that a smaller fingerboard radius is better for playing chords, and a more even, flat surface makes it easier to play technical passages with an abundance of special techniques such as bands. The average and, one might say, classic diameter value is 12", this is the most popular option among modern electric guitars. The smallest figure is just over 7", it is found in some guitars with Stratocaster bodies (both original Fender instruments and copies ). And the most flat pads have a diameter of 20" or more.

Note that there are often instruments with a variable fretboard radius — smaller at the headstock (where chords are played more often) and larger near the body (where solos are played by notes). In such cases, the radius at the nut is indicated.