Comparison Marley MEnV 180 Plus vs Vaillant recoVAIR VAR 60/1 D

The diameter of the holes intended for connecting air ducts to the ventilation unit. The more performant the air ventilation unit, the more air the ducts must pass and the larger, usually, the mounting holes. For wall-mounted models (see above), this parameter determines the size of the channel that must be drilled into the wall to accommodate the unit.

The noise level produced by the air ventilation unit in normal operation.

This parameter is indicated in decibels, while the decibel is a non-linear unit: for example, a 10 dB increase gives a 100 times increase in sound pressure level. Therefore, it is best to evaluate the actual noise level using special tables.

The quietest modern ventilation units produce about 27–30 dB — this is comparable to the ticking of a wall clock and allows you to use such equipment without restrictions even in residential premises (this noise does not exceed the relevant sanitary standards). 40dB is the daytime noise limit for residential areas, comparable to average speech volume. 55–60 dB — the norm for offices, corresponds to the level of loud speech or sound background on a secondary city street without heavy traffic. And in the loudest, they give out 75–80 dB, which is comparable to a loud scream or the noise of a truck engine. There are also more detailed comparison tables.

When choosing according to the noise level, it should be taken into account that the noise from the air movement through the ducts can be added to the noise of the ventilation unit itself. This is especially true for centralized systems (see "System"), where the length of the ducts can be significant.

The type of heat exchanger used in the heat exchanger of the ventilation unit (see "Features").

— Plate. The simplest and most common type of heat exchanger is based on the use of metal plates that separate the incoming and outgoing air into narrow channels. Such heat exchangers are inexpensive, do not require an electrical connection and are almost silent. However, a classic plastic or metal heat exchanger has a relatively low efficiency (about 45 – 80%), “blows out” moisture from the room (which may require the use of humidifiers), and in frosty weather ice forms on the plates, and it is necessary to turn off the heat exchanger, letting air in bypassing it (for this, an automatic bypass is often provided). The last two shortcomings are devoid of plate heat exchangers made of cellulose — they do not freeze; moreover, they retain not only heat but moisture in the room, and the efficiency can reach 92%. On the other hand, cellulose heat exchangers are not applicable in swimming pools and other areas with high humidity.

— Rotary. Heat exchangers, the operation of which is based on the rotation of a disc of a special design. At the same time, each part of the heat exchanger alternately works to cool the exhaust air and then to heat the supply air. Such a system has a higher efficiency than plate heat exchangers, it is more compact, it returns most of the moisture coming out with the exhau...st air and does not freeze in cold weather. On the other hand, due to the complexity of the design, rotary heat exchangers are more expensive and less reliable, in addition, they require power supply and produce some additional noise (although most often not much).

— Enthalpy. The key feature of enthalpy (ceramic) heat exchangers is that they transfer to the supply air not only sensible, but also latent heat of the exhaust air, which is released due to moisture condensation. In addition, the design of such heat exchangers provides for the presence of a special membrane made of cellulose or synthetic fabric - it is this that is responsible for transferring heat and moisture to the supply air, thereby ensuring the maintenance of optimal microclimate parameters. This allows you to achieve impressive efficiency indicators - from 90% and above. The main disadvantage of enthalpy heat exchangers is their high cost due to the complexity of production.

— Tubular. Heat exchanger based on a bundle of thin metal tubes of great length placed in a casing. Usually, outdoor air is supplied through such tubes to the room, and the air from the room on the way out moves between the tubes, transferring heat to them. In such devices, you can achieve a fairly solid efficiency — 70% and above; even though tubular heat exchangers are relatively simple in design and reliable. They appeared relatively recently and, for the most part, have not yet received significant distribution.

The lowest outdoor air temperature at which the ventilation unit can be safely used; more precisely, the minimum inlet air temperature at which the unit can operate normally, without malfunctions, for an indefinitely long time.

It is worth choosing according to this parameter taking into account the climate in which it is planned to use the unit: the device should normally tolerate at least the average winter temperature, and it is best to have some reserve in case of a harsh winter. However, many modern models allow operation at -10 °C and below, and in the most cold-resistant ones, the temperature minimum can reach -35 °C. So choosing a unit for a temperate climate is usually not a problem. Also note that if an installation that is ideally suited for all other parameters cannot cope with low temperatures, the situation can be corrected by using an additional heater at the inlet of the ventilation system.

Note that if the minimum temperature is not indicated in the characteristics, it is best to proceed from the fact that this model requires a temperature not lower than 0 °C. In other words, in cold weather, it is worth using only the equipment for which this possibility is directly stated.

Ability to control device via the Internet. The connection of the unit to the World Wide Web, usually, is carried out via Wi-Fi, and the control format may be different: in some models, you need to use a special application installed on your smartphone or tablet; in others, it is enough to open a special page in a browser. Anyway, this function allows you to control the device from anywhere in the world where there is Internet access, as well as, monitor its status and receive notifications about various operating parameters (current power, outdoor temperature, failures and malfunctions, etc.).

The electrical power consumed by the supply and exhaust unit in normal operating mode (for models with adjustable performance — at maximum speed) can help determine the connection requirements for the unit and estimate the cost of operation in terms of electricity bills. It should be noted that for models with an electric reheater (see "Reheater type"), this refers only to the power of the ventilation system, while the power of the reheater is provided separately (see above). Therefore, the total energy consumption during full operation will correspond to the sum of these power values.

The power consumption can also be used to some extent to assess the unit's performance: "power-hungry" units usually provide a corresponding airflow.

The minimum wall thickness on which the air ventilation unit can be hung with the possibility of wall mounting.

This parameter is indicated for models mounted directly into a hole in the wall — see "Mounting" for details. The installation length (the length of the pipe between the trims) can usually be adjusted to suit specific wall thicknesses. However, if this thickness is too small, then even an extremely shortened pipe will stick out of it, preventing the entire structure from being securely fixed. This is the reason for this limitation. Theoretically, the situation can be corrected — for example, by building up a wall at the installation site — however, in fact, such options are unlikely to be considered seriously. Nevertheless, in most models, this limitation does not exceed 300 mm, and it is very rarely necessary to install ventilation units on thinner walls.

The maximum thickness of the wall on which the air ventilation unit can be hung with the possibility of wall mounting (see "Mounting").

This parameter is indicated for models mounted directly into a hole in the wall — see "Mounting" for details. The installation length (the length of the pipe between the trims) can usually be adjusted to suit specific wall thicknesses. However, if the wall thickness is too large, the pipe simply will not reach the outside, and installation will be impossible. Therefore, you need to pay close attention to this parameter — especially when it comes to buildings with thick walls, for example, old houses.