Comparison E-Motion Fatbike 48V 1000W vs ENGWE EP-2 Pro 750W

The maximum load allowed for a bicycle is, in other words, the maximum weight that it can normally carry in normal use. Of course, when calculating the load, the weight of both the cyclist himself and the additional load that he carries with him is taken into account.

The permissible load must definitely not be exceeded: even if the bike does not break down immediately, off-design loads can weaken the structure, and an accident can occur at any time. Also note that it is desirable to have a certain weight margin — at least 15 – 20 kg: this can be useful in case of transporting heavy loads and will give an additional guarantee in emergency situations (for example, when a wheel gets into a pit). Considering that the average weight of an adult is about 70 – 80 kg, bicycles with a permissible load of up to 100 kg can be classified as "lightweights", from 100 to 120 kg — to the middle category, more than 120 kg — to "heavy trucks".

Frame size refers to the distance from the saddle attachment point to the bottom bracket attachment point (axles with gears and pedals). The main parameters that determine the choice of a bike for frame size are the height of the user, the purpose of the bike and the intended riding style.It is also worth considering the female frame, which is lowered, which allows you to ride comfortably even in a skirt or dress.

User height is the most significant factor. In general, the taller the user, the larger the frame should be. The universal formula that allows you to calculate a specific size is as follows: the length of the leg from the groin to the heel in centimeters must be multiplied by 0.6, and then divided by 2.5 — you get the approximate size of the frame in inches. But in the characteristics of brands, the frame can also be indicated in the usual form for measuring size XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL and XXL.

However, note that this value is very arbitrary and approximate, it can only be used for simple bicycles not intended for extreme driving (for example, city bikes, see "Destination"). If you choose a more specialized model (mountain, road, BMX) — it is better to refer to the tables for th...e appropriate type, because. sizes for one height can vary significantly depending on the destination. In addition, different manufacturers have different frame geometry and measurement methods, and therefore, for the most accurate selection, it is recommended to use the manufacturers' own tables.

Note that the optimal frame size is not absolute — in most cases, for the same height, “neighboring” sizes are quite suitable. And here it is worth paying attention to the intended driving style. It is believed that small, well-controlled frames are better suited for extreme variant, and larger and more stable ones are better suited for long-term calm movement.

The user's height recommended by the manufacturer is calculated according to several parameters. One is the wheel diameter, and the second and more important is the frame size. If everything is simple with the wheel size — it is round and always the same, then the frame size complicates the choice. Different types of bicycles have their own frame shape, so even the same size can be suitable for different heights. And this is not to mention the features of the manufacturer, who like to do everything for themselves, and not in a general manner. Therefore, the size of the frame of each bicycle has its own size and it is still better to choose a bicycle by personally “saddling” it. If this is not possible, then our point will tell you what height, according to the manufacturer, this configuration (frame + wheel) of the bike is designed for.

The presence or absence of a depreciation system on a bicycle, as well as the type of this system.

— Without depreciation (rigid). In such models, the wheels are fixed directly to the rigid elements of the frame; there are no depreciation devices. Due to this, the design of the bicycle is simple, the weight is small, the cyclist feels all the features of the road topography as much as possible, and the maximum efficiency of pedaling is also achieved, which is important, for example, for road models (see "Destination"). At the same time, structural rigidity is a "double-edged sword". On the one hand, "feeling for the road" is important for BMX and some mountain models (see "Purpose"); on the other hand, the lack of shock absorption significantly increases the load on both the structure and the rider himself, leads to increased wear, fatigue and some risk of injury on rough roads.

— Depreciation of the front fork (hard tail). The most popular type of cushioning in adult bikes (see "Age Group"), especially urban and mountain types (see "Purpose"). In accordance with the name, in such bicycles, the shock-absorbing device is installed only on the front fork, while the rear wheel is rigidly fixed. The presence of a shock absorber somewhat increases the weight of the structure and complicates its maintenance, however, the advantages of such a scheme significantl...y outweigh the disadvantages: hard-tails combine good handling, “road feel” and ride comfort, including and on rough terrain.

— Rear fork. Bicycles in which only the rear wheel is damped, while the front wheel is rigidly fixed. The rear shock absorber is designed to provide additional comfort when hitting various bumps, and the absence of a front shock absorber reduces the overall cost of the machine. This option is found mainly in urban models, including electric bicycles (see "Application"); in other varieties, the use of rear shock absorption is not practical.

— Two-suspension (full suspension). Bicycles equipped with shock absorbers on both wheels — a fork in front and a special suspension in the back. Such models are as comfortable as possible for driving on rough terrain, because. They dampen the vibrations felt by the cyclist best and provide the best grip on uneven tracks. At the same time, the presence of a rear shock absorber "eats" part of the energy coming from the pedals, and you have to spend more effort to ride. To avoid this, many two-suspension bikes can be provided with front and rear suspension lockouts (see below), but full suspension complicates the design anyway, increases its weight and price. Therefore, this type of cushioning is relatively rare, mainly in certain varieties of mountain bikes (in particular, for cross-country and freeride; see "Purpose").

Front fork suspension type (if available, see "Suspension"). All shock absorption systems in bicycles work in two directions: vibration damping (damping) and impact energy absorption (cushioning). Accordingly, they have two main components: a damper and a shock absorber. Depending on the design features of these elements, the following types of depreciation are distinguished:

— Spring-elastomer. In this case, the role of a shock absorber is played by an elastic spring, and the role of a damper is played by a rod made of an elastic, well-compressible material, the so-called elastomer. This type appeared as a development of conventional spring damping systems, it is more durable, but poorly suited for low temperatures — the elasticity of the elastomer in such conditions decreases, which negatively affects the characteristics of the system.

— Spring-oil. Systems using a spring as a shock absorber and an oil cartridge as a damper. This design is somewhat more resistant to low temperatures than spring-elastomer, and in general has quite good characteristics, due to which it is quite widely used in various types of bicycles. The main disadvantage is the higher (on average) cost.

— Air-oil. Combined systems consisting of an air cylinder that acts as a shock absorber and an oil cartridge that acts as a damper. They appeared as a development of “pur...e” air systems, which had a serious drawback: even with high-quality maintenance, the seals wore out rather quickly, which could disable the shock absorber. Air-oil systems are more durable and easier to maintain, while being quite efficient and weighing little. The latter is especially valuable for cross-country (see "Purpose"), where it is required to combine depreciation with a low weight of the machine.

— Aluminium. In this case, aluminium is the simplest and most unpretentious option. Its advantages include light weight; on the other hand, in the absence of shock absorption, the steering wheel with such a fork is highly susceptible to vibrations, and in terms of durability, aluminium is somewhat inferior to steel.

— Steel. Another relatively simple option, which at the same time is considered more advanced than the aluminium described above, and is found even in fairly expensive pro-level bikes. This is due to the fact that steel is noticeably stronger and more durable, as it is not as susceptible to "metal fatigue". However such forks weigh a little more than aluminium ones.

— Chromium molybdenum steel. A type of steel that is more advanced than more traditional grades. Among the main advantages of such alloys are high strength and reliability; at the same time, due to such properties, individual elements of the forks can be made thinner, and the forks themselves can be made lighter than ordinary steel ones. The main disadvantage of Cro-Mo steel is the rather high cost.

— Carbon. Lightweight and high-strength carbon fibre forks effectively dampen small bumps in the road under the wheels of the bike and slightly spring on small potholes, thereby providing cushioning on bumpy roads. The carbon fork facilitates the design of the front of the bike. Most often it is found on board "highways" and "gravel roads", less often it is installed in o...ff-road fatbikes. Vulnerable point — carbon forks break under the influence of strong point impacts.

Possibility to fold the bike. This feature greatly simplifies storage and transportation — you can easily transport the bike in the boot of a car, train, etc. At the same time, the folding design inevitably loses in strength to the one-piece non-folding one, and therefore such bicycles are quite rare and are designed for simple conditions like city driving.

The nominal diameter of the bicycle wheels. Usually, this paragraph actually indicates the size of the bicycle tyres supplied in the kit, more precisely, the outer diameter of the tyres.

Wheel diameter is traditionally indicated in inches. For bicycles of different purposes and age groups (see paragraphs above), there are certain size standards. So, adult mountain models are equipped mainly with 26 " wheels, "road" and urban ones — with a slightly larger diameter (mostly 28 "), and BMX for the most part — much smaller; children's and teens' bikes have smaller wheels than similar adults' bikes.

Other things being equal, larger tyres hold speed better and work out small bumps on the road; and relatively small wheels are more “sticky”, they provide more torque and better traction. This is the reason for the above-described difference in wheel sizes between bicycles for different purposes. Such nuances will be useful if you choose a car from several models with similar characteristics, but different wheel diameters. Here it is worth considering the features of the planned application. For example, for urban and "road" driving — on a hard surface without any special irregularities and elevation changes — it is better to choose larger wheels, and for dirt roads with ups and downs — smaller ones.

Also note that tyres are replaceable, and many bikes allow the installation of tyres of...a “non-native” size — for example, 29 "on a model with 28-inch wheels. It is also worth considering that wheels (tyres) of the same size may differ in inner (landing) diameter These nuances are described in detail in special sources.

Tyre model supplied with the bike as standard. Different tyres have different purposes and characteristics; knowing the tyre model, you can clarify these points and check how they correspond to your wishes. This is especially important when choosing a machine for serious cycling.