Knives & Multitools: specifications, types

The type describes the general specialization and design features of the knife. Among the most popular modern types are EDC (everyday), Swiss, hunting / camping, diving (underwater), as well as such specific options as machete / kukri, butterflies, poke and throwing knives, as well as karambits. Note that multi-tools, multi-tools-trinkets and Kubotans / Yawars actually do not belong to knives at all. Here is a more detailed description of each type

— EDC. The English abbreviation EDC means "everyday wear"; it denotes not only knives, but also other small items that are constantly carried with you - from wallets and watches to flashlights and first aid kits. Specifically, EDC knives are mostly small to medium-sized folding products (blade length in most cases does not exceed 90 mm), with a blade lock, a pocket clip and very few or no additional features. Such knives are designed mainly for everyday situations in urban environments, although they can be useful both in nature and in an extreme situation.

— Swiss. Knives that originally appeared as a multi...-purpose tool for the Swiss military (hence the name) and have become popular around the world due to their practicality and functionality. The distinctive features of the Swiss knife are, firstly, a folding design, and secondly, the presence of at least one additional tool that folds into a handle (in addition to the main blade). At the same time, the assortment of such tools is very diverse, it can be almost any additional devices used in modern knives (see "Functions and Capabilities"), and their number in the most functional models can reach one and a half dozen or even more. Swiss knives are mostly small in size, but there are exceptions. In general, they are not well suited for complex large-scale work, but they are indispensable for small tasks that suddenly arise in everyday life: cut a thread, open a bottle, unscrew or tighten a couple of bolts, etc.

– Hiking (hunting / fishing). Knives designed specifically for use in nature - while hunting, fishing or long hikes. Such models often have to deal with different tasks - from cooking and cutting wood chips for a fire, ending with butchering prey. Therefore, there are no clear differences between hunting, fishing and camping knives, which made it possible to combine them into one category. Ease of use, reliability, the ability to withstand long-term high loads and maintain sharpness are especially important for them. Such knives are made mostly clumsy, and rather hard steel is most often used for blades (however, there are exceptions). Many hunting models are not equipped with a sub-finger notch (see "Additional") - this expands the number of grip options available in use. Also, “purely hunting” knives may have an additional specialization related to butchering prey - for example, a Gut-Hook profile (with a hook on the blade for butchering carcasses) or Skinner (a short and wide blade, convenient for skinning). As for fishing knives, their universal models often have slightly longer and narrower blades than classic camping and EDC knives - so that it is convenient both to work with tackle and to clean or gut the catch. For the convenience of removing scales from fish, fishing models may have teeth on the butt of the main blade or even a separate blade resembling a file. We also note that many fishing models are equipped with bright inserts in the handles, which makes it easier to find a knife in the grass or under water; and the handles themselves are often made of lightweight materials that allow a knife that has fallen into the water to stay on the surface. The range of additional tools in hiking models is usually small - in some instances, there may be a file, a cullet and / or a sling cutter.

- Multitool. A versatile tool, most often a folding pliers with advanced features; in some models, scissors or pruners may be the main tool, but the basic design principle remains the same. The handles of such tools accommodate additional folding devices - knives, screwdrivers, etc.; there, in the handles, the sponges of the pliers hide when folding the multitool itself. In general, this is the most versatile type of pocket tool, surpassing even Swiss knives in capabilities; although the specific functionality of the multitool, of course, directly depends on the model.

— Multitool-keychain. A compact variety of multi-tools (see above), which can be worn on a keychain, on a carabiner, in a breast pocket. Multi-tools in the form of key rings are not amazing with a variety of tools, but this option can be useful in some unforeseen situations - for example, with the help of built-in miniature devices, you can fix a fallen bolt on sunglasses, cut a broken nail, etc.

— For diving. Knives designed for scuba divers and divers. Most of them have a clumsy design and a thick, durable blade that can be used as a lever or wedge. The blade often has a combined or purely serrated sharpening (see "Type of the main blade"), convenient for cutting ropes and nets; Many diving knives are double-edged. The handles of knives of this type are large and at the same time quite light, due to which, when released from the hands, the knife becomes vertically on the bottom, on the edge, or even floats to the surface. This, combined with bright inserts, makes it easier to find a lost instrument. Also note that diving knife sheaths are usually equipped with a universal fastening system that allows you to attach them to almost any part of the body or equipment at any angle.

- Machete. The traditional machete is a long (on average 40-50 cm) and wide knife with a blade that widens slightly from the handle to the tip. In addition, in our catalog, kukri, parangi and some other specific types of machete, originating mainly from Southeast Asia, also belong to the machete; see "Blade Profile" for details. Be that as it may, all these varieties have common features, which made it possible to combine them into one type. First of all, these are large sizes and heavy weight, which is why machetes (of all types) are designed mainly for cutting, and not for cutting. Such a knife can be useful when cutting through a road in dense shrubs, harvesting firewood from branches of small thickness, and even when cutting prey while hunting. Of course, a machete will not replace a full-fledged ax; on the other hand, a wider and longer blade is an advantage in some work.

- Butterfly. Another name for this type is balisong. A kind of folding knives, which has a rather original design: the “butterfly” handle consists of two halves, which are attached to the blade with swivel joints. When folded, the blade is completely hidden inside the handle, and when unfolded, both halves rotate 180 °, freeing the blade and forming a one-piece handle. This design allows you to open and fold the knife with one hand, with almost no physical force - although this will require some training. In addition, you can perform quite spectacular tricks with a balisong.

- Mushroom. Knives designed for picking mushrooms. An almost obligatory element of equipment for such a knife is a sickle-shaped blade, which is very convenient to cut prey; such a "sickle" may be the main blade or complement a more traditionally shaped blade. There are other blade options, but much less often; well, in any case, the dimensions of the blade are usually small - otherwise, when picking mushrooms, it is not required. Another feature popular among knives of this type is a brush for cleaning the caps of the collected mushrooms from litter.

- Tychkovy. Knives of a peculiar design: T-shaped or L-shaped, with a handle perpendicular to the blade. In use, this handle is clamped in the fist, and the blade protrudes forward from the fist; the heel - the back of the blade - is made thin, which allows you to squeeze it between your fingers without any problems. The length of the blade in most models of this type is small, and folding is not provided. Such products are designed mainly for use as a means of self-defense, although the “peaceful” use of a butt knife is also possible - for example, for cutting dense material or for opening adhesive tape on packages. In addition, some hunters use such knives when skinning.

- Karambit. The traditional karambit has a rather narrow and long blade with a pronounced point, shaped like a claw - bent down - and sharpened from the concave side. In addition, in our time there are various modifications of such blades, sometimes only approximately resembling the original. The handle is also often bent, so that the whole shape of the knife can resemble a sickle. Another practically obligatory feature of karambit is the ring at the end of the handle, into which the index finger is threaded when held (the knife is designed for reverse grip by default); in some models there is also a second ring, under the little finger. As for the purpose, initially karambits were intended for rather specific tasks, such as collecting coconuts, and in our latitudes such knives are poorly suited for domestic use. However, there are still everyday situations where karambit can still be on top - in particular, cutting ropes, ripping fabrics and opening various packages.

- Throwing. Knives specifically designed for throwing. A characteristic distinguishing feature of such a knife is a kind of balance, when the blade is noticeably heavier than the handle. The handle itself has an extremely simplified design, designed primarily for weight reduction and does not imply comfort when held for a long time in the hands. For example, the simplest throwing knife is an oblong metal plate, one end of which is forged to the shape of a blade, and the other plays the role of a handle and usually has holes to reduce weight. In more advanced models, the handle can be supplemented with paracord or other similar material. But linings made of wood, plastic, etc. they are not used in throwing knives - such materials tend to shatter from impacts during unsuccessful throws, and besides, they have significant weight. The blade is necessarily made sharpened so that the knife can stick when it hits, and the blade as such may be absent altogether, since such knives are not designed for cutting.

- Kubotan / Yawara. Kubotans and Yawars are not knives - they are devices for hand-to-hand combat (mainly self-defense), made in the form of a short rod. They are supposed to be clamped in the hand to strike at pain zones, conduct counterattacks, escort people, or simply to strengthen the blow. Formally, the yawara is a traditional Japanese weapon, and Kubotan is a trademark under which a modern modification of the yawara is produced in the form of a keychain. However, most often such devices are found in the format of tactical pens. Compact dimensions allow you to constantly carry such products with you, using them for self-defense, as a high-strength lever, for breaking glass (many models are armed with a special cullet), etc. In addition, Yawars in such a form factor are skillfully disguised as writing pens, which allows you to avoid unnecessary inconvenient questions from law enforcement agencies.

Models designed for training in hand-to-hand and knife combat. Products of the most diverse types are considered training. Most of these specimens are models of knives made of dense rubber, hard plastic and other similar materials. This design minimizes the likelihood of injury both when working in pairs / groups, and during independent training (however, for a full guarantee, it is still advisable to use protective equipment - at least a fencing mask). Another option can be represented by training butterfly knives designed to practice flipping - various tricks with such a knife. The difference from the usual butterfly lies in the fact that the "blade" of the training model does not have any piercing and cutting parts. And in some models, instead of a blade, some “peaceful” tool is provided at all, for example, a comb or an opener.

The number of additional features provided in the design of the knife - in addition to the blade itself, which in this case is not taken into account. We also note that in our catalog this number is not counted by the actual number of tools, but by the number of tool types: for example, three flat screwdrivers of different sizes are counted as one function. See "Features and Features" for details on optional equipment.

- Clumsy. The simplest option: the knife blade is fixedly fixed in the handle; there is no possibility of folding it. Such knives are not very convenient to carry - not only because of their large dimensions, but also because they require a sheath or sheath, otherwise the blade can damage surrounding objects or even injure the owner. On the other hand, the fixed structure is simple and inexpensive - and at the same time extremely durable and reliable. Therefore, many knives designed for significant loads - in particular, hunting and fishing ones - are made awkward.

— Folding. Knives of a traditional folding design: during non-working hours, the blade is folded due to the rotary fastening in such a way that the blade is hidden in the handle. A similar folding principle is used by butterfly knives and multitools (see “Type”), so they also fall into this category. In any case, this design significantly simplifies storage and transportation and reduces to almost zero the likelihood of the blade coming into contact with foreign objects. Folding models are considered somewhat less durable and reliable than non-folding ones; however, through the use of certain types of locks (see below), this moment can be almost completely compensated. But the obvious disadvantages of this design are its higher cost than non-folding ones, as well as the need for special maintenance: a dirty mechanism may require cleanin...g and lubrication. In addition, not every knife can be made folding - for example, for a machete this does not make sense given the size and purpose.

— Folding (front-facing). A specific type of folding design, found mainly in EDC knives (see “Type”). The difference between such products and conventional folding knives is that when opened, the blade does not rotate on a hinge, but extends from the front end of the handle, usually under the action of a special spring. Moreover, in the simplest models the spring works only in one direction - usually to open, less often to close; you have to move the blade in the other direction and compress the spring “manually”, by moving a special slider or other element. However, the two-way Double Auto system has become more widespread (for more information about it, see “Lock”). Note that in order to avoid injury (or stabbing), in some “front-end” blades the blade can be removed from the lock and moved back also under the influence of strong longitudinal pressure.

— Folding (automatic). Knives with an automatic mechanism for unfolding and folding the blade. To bring their blade into working position, a lock with a powerful spring is used, which is released when the button is pressed. The key feature of automatic folding models is the ability to open them with one hand. A knife with automatic blade ejection often comes to the rescue when it is not possible to use the second hand. As a rule, opening and closing the blade of such knives occurs using a button.

Type of lock - a device for fixing the main blade - used in a folding knife (see “Design”). Theoretically, such a device should provide additional protection by preventing unauthorized closing (and sometimes opening) of the knife; however, in practice, much depends on the type of particular lock: different types can differ markedly in reliability, and there are solutions that do not provide for rigid fixation of the blade at all.

Among the most popular modern locks are liner lock, frame lock, back lock, axis lock, button lock and tri-ad lock, however, in addition to them, there are other options, including double auto, compression lock, viroblock and slip-joint. Let's look at both in more detail:

— Liner lock. One of the simplest, inexpensive and at the same time very reliable locks. The locking element is an elastic flat plate (“liner”) hidden inside the handle; when opening the knife, this plate moves to the side and supports the back of the blade, on which a special recess is provided for the liner. To disengage the lock and close the knife, the plate must be moved with your finger in the other direction, to its ori...ginal position.

- Frame lock. In fact, it is a modification of the liner lock described above, in which the role of the locking plate is played not by the liner installed inside the handle, but by part of the handle itself. Such a lock is considered more reliable, and on the whole it is deservedly so: the part of the handle that supports the blade is much thicker than the “liner” and is less likely to shift when the lock is opened. Also, the advantages of a frame lock include a rather interesting and stylish appearance: knives with such locks are mostly all-metal, without handle linings; and models with linings differ in appearance from knives with other types of locks.

— Back lock. A lock using a locking plate, which looks like a kind of spring-loaded “rocker arm” installed along the knife handle and capable of swinging around a transverse axis. When the knife is open, this plate, with its leading edge, rests against the hook on the back of the blade, preventing it from closing; and to close the knife, you need to press on the part of the “rocker arm” protruding from the handle, releasing the plate from the hook. The pressing force is usually quite large, which minimizes the likelihood of disabling the lock even with the tightest grip. In general, such locks turn out to be quite reliable, but it is very difficult to close a knife with a “backlock” with one hand, and in many models it is even impossible.

— Axis lock. Benchmade's invention: a lock controlled by a special movable pin in the front of the handle. When moved forward, the pin enters a groove on the back of the blade, fixing it; when moved back, the lock is released and the knife can be closed. The pin is often made spring-loaded, and the blade, unlike many simpler solutions, is fixed not only in the open position, but also in the closed position. Thanks to this, Axis Lock is considered one of the most reliable modern locks. On the other hand, such a mechanism is sensitive to contamination and requires some care (however, simple) for reliable operation.

- Button lock. Another lock based on the use of a pin. However, in this case, the pin does not move in the longitudinal groove, but is controlled by pressing a button: this press releases the lock, allowing you to open or close the blade (most often it is fixed in both positions - open and closed). Also note that many knives with a “push-button” lock have an automatic opening mechanism - a spring-loaded blade that opens into the working position without effort on the part of the user.

— Virobloc. A knife lock developed by Opinel and still a “calling card” of knives of this brand. The key element of the lock is a rotating ring with a longitudinal slot installed in the front of the handle, at the point where it connects with the blade. To open or close the knife (and it is fixed in both the closed and open positions), you need to turn the ring so that the slot is opposite the blade - then the blade can pass through the ring to the desired position. If the slot is not opposite the blade, the latter, when trying to open or close, rests against the ring and cannot budge.

- Slip-joint. A type of knife lock that does not provide rigid fixation of the blade. In the open position, the blade in such a knife is fixed by the so-called spacer - an elastic element that is to some extent similar to the back lock “rocker arm”, but does not engage in a rigid engagement with the blade (and also plays the role of a kind of closer for a not fully open blade). To close such a knife, it is enough to apply some force to the butt. “Slip joints” are used mainly in small Swiss knives (see “Type”), not designed for high loads.

— Compression lock. A modification of the Liner Lock described above, created by Spyderco and used in some models of this company. One of the key differences from the original is that the locking plate is located on the top side of the handle rather than on the bottom. Due to this, as well as some specific design solutions inside the mechanism itself, the compression lock turns out to be much more reliable than the original “liner”, however, such a lock is not cheap.

— Levitator lock. A proprietary modification of the Frame Lock (see above), developed by Benchmade. Like the original “frame lock”, it is used in knives without pads. A distinctive feature of “levitators” is a specific pattern of slots in the middle part of the handle - this pattern forms a spring plate. A pin is attached to this plate from the inside, which, entering the hole on the back of the blade, fixes it (usually in both the closed and open positions). The lock opens by pressing the characteristic part of the pattern, which acts as a button.

- Arc lock. A proprietary development of the SOG Specialty Knives company, used in its knives; from a technical point of view, it is a slightly modified version of the axis lock described above. The control element is also a pin; and the key difference from the usual “axis” is that the pin is connected to a special rocker arm and moves not in a straight line, but in an arc. This provides additional reliability, however, such disadvantages of the original as high cost and sensitivity to dirt are also characteristic of such a lock.

- Double auto. The Double auto system is not so much a type of lock as a type of opening mechanism found in frontal knives (see “Design”). This mechanism is controlled by a sliding switch that can move in two directions - unfolding (forward) and folding (backward). The whole system works in this way: when the switch moves forward or backward, one of the springs is charged, and when the extreme point is reached, the blade is released and moves in the corresponding direction under the action of the charged spring. In general, this is a very convenient and practical, and therefore very popular type of lock among front-facing cameras.

- Safe lock. The full name is Ram Safe Lock. Developed by Cold Steel, a specific variation on the back lock theme (see above): it also uses a rocker arm to rigidly fix the blade, only in this case the rocker arm does not swing, but moves back and forth. The blade is fixed in the open and closed position; To open the lock, you need to pull the rocker by the back part protruding from the handle. This design is highly reliable and resistant to loads; Its main disadvantage is the inability to unfold and fold the knife with one hand.

— Cogwheel lock. “Gear lock”, also known as a ratchet lock. The rear part of the blade has the shape of a gear in such knives, and the locking occurs due to a plate with a cutout for one of the gear teeth. To open the lock, you need to lift the plate; For this purpose, a characteristic ring may be provided in the design. An interesting (although not very useful in practice) feature of ratchet locks is the ability to fix the blade not only in open and closed, but also in several intermediate positions. At the same time, the reliability of such devices is relatively low, so they are rarely used - in particular, in models that copy certain types of traditional knives (such as the Spanish Navaja).

- Slide lock. A relatively rare type of lock, found in certain models of Swiss knives - usually small, but advanced and multifunctional, where the additional mechanism does not particularly affect the dimensions. This lock is controlled by a slider on the side of the handle: the blade is fixed in the open position, and to fold it you need to pull the slider back, thus disabling the lock. The slider is spring-loaded, which does not allow it to “slide” back on its own (for example, under its own weight); In addition, the spring also plays the role of a closer for the blade that is not fully open. The reliability of “slide locks” is not particularly high, but this is not required given the specifics of the application.

— Tri-ad lock. An invention of the Cold Steel company, which is a variation on the Back Lock mechanism. It also uses a locking plate in the form of a characteristic spring-loaded “rocker arm”, but it is secured in the center by a floating pin (oval, not round). Next to the front end of the “rocker arm” there is another axial pin - together, these modifications have significantly improved the reliability of the locking mechanism. Thanks to such modifications, the blades of knives with Tri-ad lock are devoid of any backlash.

Profile of the main blade used in a knife.

The profile describes the overall shape of the blade; Its purpose and the features of using the knife depend on this. Among the most popular profiles nowadays are drop-point, clip-point, normal blade (classic), bowie, tanto ; however, there are many other varieties such as dagger, wharncliffe, etc. It is worth noting that the difference between some options is quite arbitrary; the same actual shape from different manufacturers (and even from different sellers) may formally refer to different types of profile. So here we will look at the classic, most characteristic features of the different options. They are:

— Normal blade (classic). The traditional profile of the blade, in our area known, in particular, from Finnish knives (finks). The butt of the “classic” is strictly straight (this is the main difference from the drop point), while the blade has a straight shape in the back and middle parts, and in the front it is rounded upward and forms a pronounced tip. This shape makes the blade easy to manufacture and at the same time universal; it works equally well for cutting and piercing, allows the knife to be used for planing, etc.

— Drop-point. The profile is in man...y ways similar to the normal one described above and differs primarily in the shape of the butt - it is not straight, but somewhat bent downward in an arc closer to the tip. It is also universal, while the proximity of the tip to the load axis contributes to higher efficiency when working on a puncture (although in general such blades are not considered as a serious piercing tool). Thanks to this, as well as ease of production, low cost and reliability, drop points are extremely popular in modern knives.

— Clip-point. Another universal profile, similar in shape to a drop-point, but differing in one characteristic detail: the front part of the butt, going down to the tip, is made not in the form of an arc, but in the form of a straight bevel at a relatively small angle. This further increases the effectiveness of the piercing effect; clip points are considered more "aggressive" than drops, and better suited for use as a weapon. However, such knives are still primarily tools and also perform well in this role, and in a fairly wide variety of tasks.

— Bowie. A profile originally created for combat and hunting knives. The shape of the blade itself is similar to the options described above - it is straight in the back and middle parts and smoothly curved to the tip in the front. But in terms of the shape of the butt, the “bowie” is a kind of opposite of the “drop point”: the front part of the butt is made not convex, but concave, as a result, the tip turns out to be “snub-nosed”, slightly raised up. Many value such blades primarily for their characteristic external style, but they also have very practical advantages: a center of gravity shifted back (which is especially noticeable on large, heavy knives) and high efficiency both when cutting and when piercing, which is enhanced in some models the presence of sharpening on the concave part of the butt.

- Tanto. Originally, a tanto is a traditional Japanese dagger; however, modern knives most often use not the classic shape, but the so-called “American tanto”, with a characteristic angular blade shape. Actually, the blade in such knives is straight or slightly curved (convex) along almost the entire length, but closer to the tip it sharply bends upward, forming a clearly defined angle (Japanese tantos do not have such a break and the blade bends smoothly). The American tanto is distinguished not only by its stylish, “aggressive” appearance, but also by its excellent stability when piercing (as well as efficiency when cutting), which is what determined its wide popularity.

— Spay-point. A type of profile similar in shape to the clip-point described above, but having a larger bevel angle. As a result, the angle of the tip where the butt and blade meet is more blunt, which reduces the effectiveness of deep piercing blows, but makes the blade more durable and resistant to various loads. The latter can be very useful for various chores; in particular, spay-point is quite popular among skinners - hunting knives used for skinning prey.

— Spear-point. A type of profile inspired by the tip of a spear. A full-fledged spear point has symmetrical outlines, sharpening on both sides and is used mainly in combat and hunting knives; the shape of such a blade is designed primarily for efficiency in stabbing strikes. However, there is also a simplified, more “peaceful” version of this profile: its shape is similar to the drop point (see above), but on the front of the butt, in front of the tip, there is an additional descent that forms a false blade or even a full-fledged additional blade. Such “spear points” have mainly economic purposes.

— Dagger. The profile shape derived from daggers: a double-edged blade, usually long and narrow, strictly symmetrical in shape, with a clearly defined tip. In many ways similar to a spear point, however, it is designed not only for piercing, but also for cutting; some models may even have different sharpening on different sides of the blade (smooth on one side and serrated on the other).

- Сhisel. This name translates as “chisel”, and it quite clearly describes this type of profile. Such blades have a rectangular or similar shape, there is practically no point in them, and on the front side of the blade there is an additional cutting edge located perpendicular to the main blade. In general, chisel is a rather highly specialized and therefore poorly widespread type of profile: it is convenient for some specific work, but in terms of overall functionality and practicality it is inferior to many of the options described above.

— Clearer blade. A profile similar in shape to the blade of a kitchen hatchet: wide, massive (however, holes are often made in the blade to reduce weight), with a straight or slightly rounded blade shape and often without a pronounced tip - the front part of the blade in such cases looks perpendicular or almost perpendicular cut. Many of these models are similar to the chisel blades described above, but the leading edge in the “jibs” is not sharpened. There are, however, other variants of the shape - for example, with a blade clearly rounded upward and a bevel of the butt, reminiscent of a shortened and thickened version of a clip-point or bowie (see above). However, in any case, cleaver-type blades are designed mainly for cutting and sometimes chopping, and are poorly suited for thrusting or not at all.

- Sheepsfoot (“sheep’s hoof/sheep’s leg”). A profile that is a kind of opposite to the “classic” described above: the blade in such blades is made straight or almost straight, and the butt in the front part is rounded down towards the blade. As a result, the tip turns out to be as non-aggressive as possible, practically incapable of piercing. Due to this, the “sheep’s leg”, among other things, is considered an ideal option for a rescue tool: with such a knife you can, for example, cut a seat belt that fits tightly to the body without fear of injuring a person.

— Wharncliffe. A profile reminiscent of the sheepsfoot described above; sometimes these two options are even combined into one type. However, there is still a difference: in the Wharncliffe, the butt in the front part descends to the tip along a gentler arc than the sheepsfoot, and this arc begins noticeably closer to the handle. The advantages of this profile are considered to be high cutting accuracy (due to the straight blade along the entire length), as well as good suitability for planing and scraping (for the same reason). In addition, the tip also turns out to be quite functional; it can, for example, accurately cut out a shallow contour of a complex shape. However, in general, this profile is not as versatile as the same “classic” or “drop point”; It initially gained popularity in “gentleman’s knives” - small pocket folding models of the EDC category. It is also worth noting that there are several other variants of the “wharncliffe” on the market - with a slightly curved upward rather than straight blade.

- Skinner A profile found exclusively in hunting knives and having a rather narrow specialization - “skinner”, as the name hints, is intended for skinning hunting trophies. Accordingly, the shape of the knife is optimized for maximum convenience during such work. The blade is made quite wide, often also quite short. In shape it is somewhat reminiscent of a drop point (see above), however, “skinners” have an extension closer to the tip, and the tip itself may not be provided at all - knives of this type are not designed for piercing action. Because of these features, “skinners” are practically unsuitable for use for any purpose other than their primary purpose; It makes sense to buy such a knife in addition to a universal hunting knife (or an “arsenal” of several knives).

- Gut-hook. Modification of the drop-point profile (see above), found in hunting knives. On the butt of such a blade, at the very tip, a special hook is made with a sharpened inner edge; This type of hook is convenient for skinning and butchering prey. At the same time, the knife turns out to be almost as universal as the original drop-point - thanks to the similar outline of the blade; The only thing is that the gut-hook is not well suited for strong stabbing blows, since the presence of the hook somewhat reduces the strength of the blade. We also note that almost all such knives are made non-folding - this design for “gut-hooks” is considered optimal, taking into account the profile features.

— Persian-point. A profile somewhat similar to the bowie described above and differing primarily in the shape and size of the concave part of the tip: it occupies most of the butt, and sometimes the entire butt is made concave. We also note that the degree of curvature of the butt can be different - from an almost straight shape, slightly different from the “classic”, to a pronounced arc of a bizarre shape, with a variable bending radius. Persian-point is one of the “historical” profiles used since ancient times; it allows you to use the knife with equal efficiency both as a weapon (including for stabbing) and as a tool for various household tasks. However, the features of application greatly depend on the specific shape of the blade.

—Hawkbill A downward curved sickle-shaped blade, reminiscent in shape of the beak of a bird of prey. The tip of such a blade is obtained noticeably below the center line, and sharpening is carried out along the inner, concave side of the blade. Classic representatives of “hawkbills” are karambits - knives originally created for a rather specific application; See "Type" for details.

- Recurved blade. A profile suggesting an S-shaped blade - slightly tapering from the base to the first third, noticeably widening towards the second third and with a clearly defined tip; the butt shape is usually similar to the drop-point profile (see above). Many consider the stylish and aggressive appearance to be one of the main advantages of this profile. As for functionality, the recurved blade is intended mainly for chopping, rough cutting and ripping; For piercing effects, as well as precise cutting, such knives are poorly suitable.

- Latin. Traditional, the most common type of profile among machetes; originally appeared in Latin America, hence the name. The latin blade has some expansion closer to the tip, most of the blade, starting from the handle, is flat, but closer to the end of the blade the blade rises in a steep arc towards the tip. The butt is straight or slightly concave; in some models it may be equipped with a serrator or even a full-fledged saw. Like all machetes, “Latin” blades are intended primarily for chopping, which is facilitated, in particular, by the blade’s center of gravity shifted to the tip; For more information on the use of such tools, see “Type”.

- Golock. Blade profile originating from Malaysia; found exclusively in machetes. Initially, the “golok” is a heavier, thicker and at the same time shorter profile than the traditional “Latin”; it provides for a noticeable expansion towards the end and a cutting edge rising steeply towards the tip, which gives the blade a distinct teardrop shape. However, nowadays, under the designation golock, blades are produced that are very far from the original configuration and resemble drop-point, or even sheepsfoot (see above).

— Parang. Another type of machete comes from Malaysia: a large and heavy blade of a curved shape, with a convex (curved upwards to the tip) cutting edge and a noticeable expansion from the handle to the end (more pronounced than in classic Latin-type machetes). The tip itself is most often located at the line of the blade, but it can also be located higher, in the area of the butt line. We also note that the “parang” profile also includes requirements for the handle: it must be curved downwards and have a thickening at the end for a secure hold in the hand. Thus, the overall shape of such a machete is S-shaped. Due to their shape and heavy weight, parangs allow you to chop effectively with a small swing.

— Kukri. Profile used in knives of the same name; In our catalog, such knives are classified as machetes, but initially “kukri” is a separate type of heavy knife, whose homeland is Nepal. This profile is difficult to confuse with something else: the long (several tens of centimeters) blade is curved downwards, noticeably widened near the tip and sharpened along the inner, concave side. This shape, combined with a forward center of gravity, makes the kukri extremely effective for chopping. Such knives are also used as combat knives, but in general they are very versatile tools, suitable for peaceful use in tourism, agriculture, etc.

- Bolo. The blade profile of the machete is also known as “Filipino” - based on its place of origin. The peculiarity of such a blade is that starting from the second third (when viewed from the handle), it expands in both directions - both towards the blade and towards the butt - and then converges to the tip, located almost on the center line of the knife (usually slightly above or a little lower). The blade itself can be either convex or S-shaped, like a recurved blade (see above). Initially, the “bolo” was an agricultural tool; its original purpose was to cut down bushes and small trees.

The shape of the cutting edge of the main blade of the knife.

- Smooth. Traditional cutting edge without serrations. This option is considered the most versatile, with the proper degree of sharpness, smooth blades are suitable for almost any work that uses knives. They lose their properties faster as they become blunt than serrated ones; on the other hand, the sharpening procedure is very simple, does not require specific equipment or skills, and is available to almost any knife owner.

- Serrated. Blade with characteristic teeth on the cutting edge. In addition to the formidable appearance, such knives have quite practical advantages. One of them is the ease of cutting - at this point, the serrated edge is much superior to the smooth one. In addition, it retains its cutting properties, even when thoroughly dulled, due to the way the teeth themselves interact with the material being cut. Also, these knives do a good work with some specific tasks - for example, cutting dense fibrous materials like ropes or cutting soft foods with a dense crust. At the same time, the teeth cut less smoothly and cleanly than a smooth blade (although they do not create sawdust, unlike a saw), and it is much more difficult to sharpen them again after dulling. Therefore, this type of sharpening in its pure form is rarely used for the main blade - more often it can be found in specialized tools like sling cutters(see "Functions and Capabilities").

- Combined. Blades that combine both types of cutting edge described above. As a rule, smooth sharpening in such models is used in the front, closer to the tip, and serrated sharpening is closer to the handle. This provides a certain versatility: depending on the specifics of a particular task, the owner can choose the optimal type of cutting edge. On the other hand, working with such a knife may require some skill; and the main drawback of serrated blades - the difficulty in sharpening - has not disappeared here either (although the smooth part is sharpened without problems).

— Steel. The most popular material for modern knives, found in the vast majority of models. There are many brands of this material on the market, with different prices and properties. Mostly carbon grades are used in knives — they cut better and are easier to sharpen than stainless ones. However carbon steel itself is less resistant to corrosion, but this disadvantage is corrected by the use of various additives. A separate variety of this material is Damascus steel, which has a very spectacular appearance due to the characteristic patterns on the blade; however, the practical properties of Damascus can vary greatly depending on the manufacturing technology and composition, while it is quite expensive.

— Titan. Titanium-based alloys combine low weight, high strength and wear resistance, as well as chemical inertness. The latter provides not only resistance to corrosion, but also maximum safety for humans — for example, if you often have to cut food with such a knife. Another specific feature is that titanium is a non-magnetic material — in some cases this is critical (for example, anti-magnetic properties are considered important for "marine" knives). At the same time, such alloys are quite expensive to manufacture, and therefore are used mainly in premium models. In addition, it should be noted that different types of titanium-based materials can significantly differ in properties. Thus, the most popular beta-titanium alloy has a...hardness of the order of 47 (see below) — this is much less than most "knife" grades of steel (although the wear resistance mentioned above should be taken into account here). Titanium carbide alloys have high hardness, but are much more difficult to manufacture and cost accordingly.

— Cobalt. In some properties, cobalt-based alloys are similar to the titanium alloys described above. So, they are very resistant to wear, especially when working with relatively soft materials, excellently resist corrosion, and are also not magnetic. On the other hand, these materials are quite difficult to process and are expensive, which accordingly affects the price of the knives themselves.

— Ceramics. Specific high-strength varieties of ceramics. The main advantages of this material are the suitability for creating very sharp and at the same time durable blades, which are also completely resistant to corrosion due to chemical inertness. It is also worth noting that such blades are not magnetized — in some cases this is an advantage. Among the shortcomings, one can mention, firstly, some fragility (ceramics does not tolerate impacts well, chips may appear on the blades), and secondly, the difficulty in sharpening — traditional procedures and materials used for steel knives are not suitable in this case. Yes, ceramic blades are expensive.

The knife blade has a matte finish. The most popular colour for these blades is black, but there are other options, including even white. The main purpose of a matte finish is to prevent the appearance of glare from the blade, which can give out the owner of the knife or create inconvenience when working. This is especially important during hunting and other similar activities, so this feature is often found in hunting and fishing models (see "Type"), as well as "survival knives" (survival). At the same time, the matter is not limited to this. For example, a matte finish is also used in multitools, and here we are talking primarily about convenience during work. And in some knives, such blades play a rather aesthetic role, giving the product a stylish appearance or resemblance to an army model.

The grade of steel from which the main blade of the knife is made. Knowing this name, you can find detailed data on the steel used and evaluate how high quality the knife is, whether it is suitable for the intended application and whether it is worth the money. Here are some of the most popular brands today:

— 440A, 440B, 440C. Category "above average". Relatively inexpensive varieties with excellent value for money. The carbon content is 0.75%, 0.9% and 1.2%, respectively; 440C steel is considered the most advanced, however, all varieties are resistant to corrosion, keep sharpening well and at the same time are quite easy to sharpen.

— AUS-8. The Japanese analogue of the "440th" line — more precisely, steel 440B (analogues 440 A and 440C are marked AUS-6 and AUS-10). It is distinguished by the presence of vanadium in the composition, which has a positive effect on wear resistance.

— 8Cr13MoV, 8Cr14MoV, 5Cr15MoV, etc. Chinese grades of steel with the addition of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium. The most popular and advanced option is deservedly considered "eight-chrome-thirteen". It is similar in properties to AUS-8, but has a higher carbon content; such steel is relatively inexpensive, but it has very good performance characteristics, due to which it is found both in relatively inexpensive knives and in premium models.

— 420. The material of the low-cost category, which, however, is distinguished by excellent corrosion resist...ance. Such steel wears out quickly, but it is also very easy to sharpen; it is well suited for low-cost knives designed for daily use.

— 420HC. A slightly more advanced version of the 420 steel described above, having a higher carbon content. As a result, the 420HC is noticeably harder and holds an edge longer; in terms of resistance to corrosion, it is practically not inferior to the original, but costs only slightly more. It is also considered an excellent option for mass-produced low-cost knives.

— D2. Category "significantly above average". A distinctive feature of this steel is its high chromium content, due to which, in terms of corrosion resistance, it approaches full-fledged “stainless steels” (although it still falls short of them). In addition, D2 is noticeably harder than most materials of a similar price category, due to which it is quite difficult to sharpen, but retains its working properties for a long time.

— CPM. A family of steels from Crucible that includes premium and super premium grades. Manufactured using the Crucible Particle Metallurgy proprietary technology, which, according to the manufacturer, provides higher quality than traditional production methods; however, such materials cost accordingly. The specific characteristics of different grades, of course, vary somewhat, but they are all characterized by good hardness and corrosion resistance. However it is worth considering that certain types of CPM (especially the most expensive ones) can be very difficult to sharpen; on the other hand, such sharpening is maintained noticeably longer than in cheaper materials.

— 65X13. Perhaps the most popular brand of Russian-made steel. It has a high chromium content, which contributes to corrosion resistance, while it is quite easy to sharpen, but does not differ in hardness. It is inexpensive and is used mainly in the mass production of inexpensive knives.

The hardness of the material used for the knife blade. This parameter is one of the key characteristics of the blade. On the one hand, high hardness means that the cutting edge will not deform, wrinkle and dull prematurely, and the blade itself will bend under transverse loads; on the other hand, hard material is difficult to sharpen and is often rather brittle.

For knife blades, Rockwell hardness measurement and designation according to the appropriate scale (HRC) are used. Most good quality steel knives have a hardness of around 52 - 58 HRC - this range is considered to correspond to the optimal ratio of characteristics. For other materials, the numbers can be noticeably lower without any noticeable loss of reliability; see "Blade material" for details. And hardness above 60 HRC is extremely rare - mainly in premium grade steels and higher. In such steels, the brittleness characteristic of hard materials is eliminated through the use of various high-grade additives, and the difficulty in sharpening is compensated by the blade's long service life.

It is worth remembering that hardness is not the only characteristic that determines the quality of the blade: a lot depends on the composition of the alloy, manufacturing technology, etc. However, this is a fairly clear indicator that characterizes the features of a particular material; this is especially true for steel.

The total length of the knife blade. This characteristic is one of the most important, with several practical points associated with it.

Firstly, the length of the blade is directly determined by the purpose of the product, and even within the same type (see above) there may be different options. For example, hunting knives for skinning (skinners) are usually quite short, up to 10 cm - in contrast to general-purpose options. Therefore, it is worth choosing a model according to this parameter, taking into account the work for which you plan to use the knife.

Secondly, the dimensions of the blade determine the overall dimensions of the knife itself. This is especially important for outdoor models (see "Type"): although the knife is usually worn folded, it is customary to indicate its dimensions in the specifications for the unfolded position. And by the length of the blade, you can quite clearly estimate the length of the knife when folded: usually it is 1.5 - 1.7 times longer than that of the blade itself, and in any case, the knife cannot be shorter than its own blade.

Thirdly, the length of the blade can be (and in many CIS countries is) one of the criteria for determining whether a knife belongs to a cold weapon. Usually, regulatory documents indicate a certain minimum length value: shorter blades do not fall into the category of edged weapons, regardless of their design, and for longer blades, specific evaluation criteria come into force...(hardness of the material, shape of the point, blade thickness, etc.).

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the length of the blade can be measured in different ways: from the point to the beginning of the handle, from the point to the peg used in opening, etc. In practical application, this moment does not play a decisive role, however, it can create legal problems: for example, state examination methods may not take into account the peg. So, if you have doubts about this, it is best to purchase a knife that has an official certificate that this model is not a melee weapon.

The thickness of the knife blade at its thickest point (usually at the butt). According to this parameter, one can to some extent evaluate the strength of the blade for transverse loads: a large thickness gives an appropriate margin of safety. At the same time, one should not forget that the “endurance” of a knife as a whole depends on many other features of its design, and only blades made of materials similar in properties can be compared in thickness. But what this indicator directly affects is the weight of the product.

Also, legal issues can be associated with the thickness of the blade, which determine whether a particular knife belongs to a cold weapon and the corresponding rules for buying, wearing and storing. The relevant rules may state, for example, that blades with a thickness of more than a certain value cannot be classified as melee weapons, regardless of other features.

The material from which the knife handle is made. For models with handles with overlays, in this case, it is usually the material of the overlays that is indicated.

The list of the most popular modern materials includes plastic, micarta, rubber, fiberglass, CFRP, wood, metal, in particular aluminium, steel, titanium, brass . There are other, more specific options, such as animal bone or horn.Here are the main features of different materials:

— Plastic. Plastic is often associated with cheap products, but in the case of knives, things are ambiguous. The fact is that there are many varieties of this material on the market, including very high quality, and the real properties of the plastic handle depend primarily on the price category of the knife. At the same time, some features are common to all variants. On the one hand, plastic in general is quite inexpensive, while being easy to process, it can easily take on complex shapes and almost any colour shade. In addition, it is relatively light, resistant to water and quite durable. Among the disadvantag...es: most types of plastic are inferior to metals in reliability and can crack from a strong impact, and this material scratches much easier.

— Fiberglass. Most often, this term does not mean pure fiberglass (it is not suitable for making handles), but fibre-reinforced plastic — a composite material that combines glass fiber and a binder polymer. This material is lightweight, resistant to water and temperature changes and very durable — its most advanced varieties are not inferior to steel. Like ordinary plastic, it is well suited for creating complex shapes. Another advantage of fiberglass is low thermal conductivity — in other words, such a handle does not “cool” the hand much in the cold. However the price of all these advantages is quite high.

— Wood. This material has been used for knife handles for a long time, but does not lose popularity today. Many appreciate wood for its pleasant and stylish appearance, but its advantages are not limited to this: wooden handles are relatively light, pleasant to the touch, including and in cold weather, and also do not slip out of the hand. On the other hand, a wood that does not receive a special treatment tends to accumulate moisture, which leads to loss of "presentation" and even damage; in addition, this material is quite sensitive to cracks and scratches. It is worth saying that different types of wood can be used in knife handles, including those that are devoid of the shortcomings described above — but they usually weigh a lot and are very expensive. Relatively simple options can be quite expensive.

— Rubber. Classical rubber is well suited for kitchen knives, but is poorly suitable for camping and other similar models due to softness, and therefore is rare. Specific types of rubber are more commonly used; their properties are usually largely similar to the plastic described above.

— Steel. One of the most popular materials for multi-tools, where the handles are subjected to significant stress; however, it is also found in knives. The key advantages of steel are high strength and reliability. It has a rather large weight, but massiveness often also turns out to be a virtue — in particular, it creates an additional impression of strength and reliability. Among the unequivocal disadvantages of steel, one can note the tendency to “cool” fingers and slip out of wet hands; however, the first moment is noticeable only in cold weather without gloves, and the second is often compensated by a relief notch, which provides additional security in holding. It is also worth considering that different grades of steel may have different resistance to corrosion, some varieties may require additional care.

— Aluminium. Another material that is quite popular among multitools, but also used in knives. In many respects it is similar to steel, however, on the one hand, it weighs less and is more resistant to corrosion, on the other hand, it costs more.

— Mikarta. Material from the family of textolites; A “layered” composite that combines a fibrous material (such as paper, fabric, or fiberglass) with a polymeric filler. The specific composition of micarta may vary, but high-pressure sintering is a mandatory feature of production. Thanks to this, the material is very dense, durable and reliable, it is suitable even for top-class knives, and the low-cost allows the use of micarta in low-cost models. On the practical side, micarta is quite pleasant to the touch, absolutely insensitive to water and temperature changes, does not cool the hand and does not conduct electricity. In addition, micarta handles also look good: for example, many of them have characteristic patterns that mimic the texture of wood.

— Titanium. Titanium-based alloys can be classified as premium materials. In addition to a solid appearance, they have low weight combined with high strength. In addition, titanium handles are well suited for use at low temperatures due to their low thermal conductivity. The main disadvantage, traditionally for such materials, is the high cost.

— CFRP. Composite material combining carbon fiber threads (carbon) and a plastic base. The main advantage of this material is its high strength, comparable to that of steel — despite the fact that it weighs much less, besides, it is absolutely not subject to corrosion. On the other hand, carbon fiber does not tolerate point impacts well — cracks can appear from this; and the cost of such handles is very high.

— Animal horn. Natural horn (for example, deer or bull) is one of the traditional materials used for knife handles for a long time. The main advantages of this material are an aesthetic appearance with a characteristic pattern, as well as a relief texture that makes it easier to hold the knife in your hand. In addition, low thermal conductivity contributes to the comfort of holding, due to which the handle does not cool the hand. On the other hand, the horn is less durable than the same steel or fiberglass. Therefore, nowadays, this material is used mainly for aesthetic reasons — to give the knife a characteristic style.

— Bone. Another "traditional" material, in many respects similar to the horn described above — in particular, the bone is pleasant to the touch and looks stylish in "hunting" knives, but in terms of strength it is somewhat inferior to more modern materials. The main difference from the horn is that bone handles have more variations in texture and colour, and their surfaces are usually smooth; the latter can be both a disadvantage and an advantage, depending on the preferences of the user.

— Leather. Leather overlays on the handle not only give the knife a stylish appearance, but also provide quite practical advantages: such a surface is reliable when held both with bare hands and with gloves, it does not cool hands and is pleasant to the touch. On the other hand, such a design is quite expensive and does not have clear advantages over simpler materials. Therefore, leather is used mainly as an element of external design, and not for practical reasons.

— Bronze. An alloy based on copper, usually with tin, having a peculiar colour (reddish or golden). In terms of basic properties, it is similar to steel (see above), on the practical side it differs only in its original appearance and higher cost. Therefore, bronze is rarely used, mainly to give the knife an original appearance.

— Brass. An alloy based on copper and zinc, with a characteristic golden colour. It is similar in characteristics and application to the bronze described above, it is used more for aesthetic rather than practical reasons.

— Metal. This option is indicated for models in which the manufacturer, for one reason or another, did not specify the specific composition of the metal used for the handle (steel, aluminium, bronze, etc.), as well as for handles consisting of unusual alloys that are not related to any one of the options above. The specific properties of the "metal" may be different, it is easiest to evaluate them by the price category of the knife.

Knives for operations and work, in which there are increased loads on the blade and handle. The shank of the blade in their design continues until the end of the handle, usually it has the same thickness as the blade. The handle itself usually consists of two pads, planted on rivets or hidden pins. But there are other versions: with a solid metal or cast polymer handle. In such cases , Full Tang knives can be identified by several distinguishing features - a protruding shank at the end, a lanyard hole through which a metal shank is visible, etc. Note that Full Tang knives a priori cannot be foldable. Most often they are presented in the categories of everyday, camping and throwing knives (see the corresponding types).

The total weight of the knife. It is worth evaluating this indicator depending on the type (see above) and purpose: for example, for a compact hiking model, light weight is usually a virtue, among hunting and fishing it all depends on specialization, and a machete, by definition, must be weighty — otherwise, cut with such a blade it will just be uncomfortable.

— No point. Models that do not have a pronounced point in the main blade. This design does not allow the blade to make punctures, which in some situations can be an advantage. For example, such models are great for the role of “the first knife for a young tourist”: the absence of a point reduces the likelihood of injury, which is important for children who do not have a clear skill for safe handling of a knife. In "adult" situations, the absence of a point can come in handy, for example, when skinning a hunted animal (so as not to pierce the insides) or cutting a net that fits snugly against the side of a rubber boat. In addition, the presence of a point may be one of the criteria for belonging to a melee weapon; in many countries, a knife without a point is not automatically such a weapon, regardless of other design features.

— Blade lock. The presence of a special lock in the folding knife, which prevents accidental folding of the blade. Such folding is both inconvenient and very traumatic, since the owner's fingers usually get in the way of the blade; blocking prevents such troubles. Note that the lock may not be installed in compact Swiss knives, the blade of which is not dangerous due to its small size, and this function is not found among butterflies in principle — the handle design itself does not allow the knife to fold while held in hand.

— Opening with one hand. The ability t...o open a folding knife (see "Design") with one hand. Among the knives with this feature, two varieties can be distinguished — with manual and automatic opening. In "manual" models, for opening with one hand, a protrusion (peg) or cutout is provided on the blade, which plays the role of a stop for the thumb; in "automatic machines" the blade unfolds (and in many frontal knives — and folds) under the action of a spring controlled by a button or a slider. Anyway, this function provides additional convenience; however, note that in some countries, opening with one hand is considered one of the signs of edged weapons.
Separately, we note that butterfly knives in our catalog are also considered “one-handed”, and by definition: any such knife can be “unwound” from a closed position to an open one using a relatively simple technique.

— Emerson Hook. A device designed to open a folding knife directly when pulled out of a pocket. A knife with such a device, unlike more traditional models, is worn on a clip with the tip up, not down; and the hook itself is located on the butt at the base of the blade and is designed in such a way that when removing the knife, you can catch the hook on the edge of the pocket and open the blade completely or almost completely. This function can be very useful in critical situations, where, as they say, everything is decided in a split second. On the other hand, it is worth bearing in mind that a certain skill is needed to use it effectively; and the Emerson hook is “not friendly” with fabrics, it can damage the material of the pocket, so it is best to use this method of opening with jeans or other clothes made of dense, durable matter.

— Finger notch. The presence in the design of the knife of a special recess located on the handle, where the index finger is placed with a direct grip. This feature provides additional convenience when holding the knife, but makes it less versatile — when using grip options other than straight, the notch can create difficulties (therefore, for example, it is quite rare in hunting models). It should be noted that the presence of a subfinger notch and its depth can serve as one of the criteria for determining whether a weapon belongs to a bladed weapon.

— Strap attachment. The presence in the design of the knife handle of a special fastening for a lanyard — a special strap. The lanyard provides additional convenience when removing the knife from the sheath, can be used to additionally fix the handle in the hand, to install a counterweight that facilitates chopping blows (for machetes and similar models, see "Type"), etc. The traditional strap mount is just a hole in the handle. However, in some types of knives (in particular, Swiss ones), this role can be played by a ring, which is also used to attach the knife itself to a carabiner, a bunch of keys, etc.

— Case. The classic case is an accessory that provides convenience and sometimes additional safety when storing and transporting the tool. At the same time, the difference between such an accessory and a scabbard (which perform a similar function) is that, usually, the knife is placed entirely in the case, while the sheath covers only the blade, leaving the handle outside. Accordingly, folding knives and multi-tools are usually equipped with covers, and such accessories are quite popular among awkward models. And here are the main options for materials:

• Fabric cover. The most popular variety nowadays. As a “fabric”, a durable and reliable material is usually used, resistant to abrasion, temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation, etc.; a typical example is dense nylon ("cordura") or polyurethane fiber. Anyway, fabric covers are cheaper than leather ones and are not so demanding to care for, while they are reliable, practical, and look good, which is why they are widely used.
• Leather Case. Leather cases differ primarily in their characteristic appearance. Often such a product is not just a utilitarian addition to the knife, but a full-fledged fashion accessory, further emphasizing the style and character of the owner. And in terms of protection, leather covers are somewhat superior to fabric ones. On the other hand, genuine leather is quite expensive, requires special care rules, and in some situations may lose its appearance and performance (for example, when wet and dry quickly, the material may crack). And various leather substitutes (which can also be implied in this case) may have different characteristics — usually, they directly depend on the price.
• Carrying case. This option is indicated in our catalog in two cases: either if the manufacturer did not directly specify the specific material, or if the knife can be supplied with different types of sheaths (at the user's choice or depending on the batch / region of delivery — this point should be specified separately). However, anyway, the material can often be clarified from photographs — after all, covers are most often made of leather or fabric, and it is not difficult to distinguish between these options.

— Scabbards. This accessory, like the case, is used for convenient and safe storage and carrying of the knife. The difference lies in the fact that the sheath hides only the blade, leaving the handle open. Accordingly, it makes sense to supplement only clumsy knives with such products. Also note that the sheath is usually designed to be able to quickly remove the knife (another difference from the same cases). And here are the most popular materials used for such accessories:

• Plastic scabbard. Plastic is an inexpensive and at the same time quite practical material. Nowadays, there is a wide variety of plastic grades on the market that differ in characteristics; this allows you to choose an option for almost any purpose and price category of a knife. Thanks to this, plastic scabbards are very popular. We only note that products made from kydex (which is also formally plastic) are listed separately in our catalog.
• Kydex scabbard. Kydex was originally a trademark of Sekisui SPI, but nowadays similar materials from other manufacturers are also combined under this name. Kydex is actually a special advanced type of plastic, which is characterized by high strength, scratch resistance (it is difficult to scratch such a surface even on purpose) and general reliability. For illustration, it can be noted that even aviation fairings and marine deep-sea robots are made of such material nowadays. Thus, the scabbard is made of kydex and placed in a separate category. Of course, such products cost more than plastic ones — however, the difference in price is not as serious as one might imagine. So such scabbards can be found even in relatively simple models of knives.
• Leather scabbard. Leather scabbards have the same characteristics as sheaths made of this material. Such products look great; often they, in addition to practical functions, also play the role of fashion accessories. This material is especially well combined with hunting and tourist knives in a traditional design; in fact, such models are most often supplemented with leather scabbards. And on the practical side, the skin is distinguished by excellent strength. At the same time, this material requires certain special rules for use and care. For example, a wet leather product should dry slowly, at a low temperature — otherwise it may lose its luster and become deformed. And for a full guarantee, it is advisable to periodically treat the surface of such scabbards with special means. Also note that genuine leather is quite expensive, and various leather substitutes (which can also be used in this case) may have different characteristics — usually, they directly depend on the price.
• Fabric scabbard. The scabbard is made of dense and durable fabric — usually based on synthetic fibers (for example, nylon cordura). To protect against contact of the fabric with the blade, such products often provide an additional insert made of plastic or other dense material. However, in general, this option, for a number of reasons, is used quite rarely — mainly in relatively inexpensive knives.

Additional functions provided in the design of the knife in addition to the main blade. For multi-tools (see "Type"), in this case, the knife blade is also considered the main tool, and this paragraph lists the rest of the product's capabilities.

— Can opener. A device popularly known as a "opener" and designed to open cans. It is usually a short and thick blade, hard enough to cut through tin.

— Knife for cleaning fish. A specialized blade designed primarily for butchering prey while fishing. Note that the capabilities of this blade are usually not limited to cleaning and deboning — in many models it is also equipped with a hook extractor, line guide and other devices for the convenience of the fisherman. This function can be found both in actual fishing knives and in other types of knives (see "Type").

— Bottle opener. Glass bottle opener with non-threaded metal caps: the cap is pushed on from one side and can be easily removed. Of course, with a certain skill, you can open a bottle even with the simplest knife handle that does not have an opener; however, using a specialized device is both easier and safer.

— Corkscrew. The classic corkscrew for opening wine bottles is a device in the form of a spiral made of thick metal wire with a sharpened tip. Such a spiral is screwed directly into the co...rk and makes it easy to remove it.

— Extra blade. Another knife blade, in addition to the main one. Usually, it has smaller dimensions, and may also differ in shape, purpose and type of sharpening (see "Blade type"). For example, the main blade can be made smooth, and the additional blade can be serrated; and in a mushroom knife (see "Type") a curved shape, convenient for cutting mushrooms, can have an additional blade, combined with the main blade of a more traditional shape. Anyway, the second blade makes the knife more versatile; in addition, it can be useful when blunting the main one. Some models with this feature may have more than one additional blade.

— Flashlight. Your own built-in flashlight can come in handy when there is insufficient ambient light, when a full-fledged flashlight is not nearby or it is impossible to use it — for example, during an unexpected power outage in the house or when working in hard-to-reach and dimly lit places. Usually, the light of such a flashlight is directed to the same place where the blade “points”.

— Crosshead screwdriver. Screwdriver for bolts and screws with a cross-shaped slot on the head. It can be either a Phillips screwdriver itself, or a special kind of flat screwdriver, specially designed for cross bolts and screws and differing from classic slotted tools in the shape of a sting. Note that in this case it is precisely the non-removable, built-in screwdriver head (or several heads) that is meant; the possibility of installing interchangeable nozzles (bits) is indicated separately, see "Adapter for a bit" below. So when buying a tool with a Phillips screwdriver, it's ok to clarify the specific dimensions of the sting (stings).

— Slotted screwdriver. Screwdriver with a flat sting and designed for bolts and screws with a straight slot. If necessary, it can also be used with cross heads, however, under heavy loads it can damage the slot, so such work must be carried out carefully. As in the case of the Phillips screwdrivers described above, this function implies a non-removable screwdriver head, the size of which should be specified separately.

— Scissors. In classic knives, the scissors are usually small in size. Due to this, they are not suitable for work involving large volumes or requiring significant effort, however, they can be useful for small household tasks: cut a thread or adhesive tape, cut off part of a paper sheet, cut off a burr on a nail, etc. But among multitools (see "Type"), there is, along with this, another option — when scissors are the main working tool; in some models, they can even be used for cutting metal. Therefore, when buying a multitool with scissors, it is worth clarifying which of the formats it uses — a miniature fixture in the handle or full-sized blades.

— Pilka. The file used in knives usually looks like an additional blade equipped with characteristic teeth instead of the usual cutting edge. Such a tool is unlikely to be useful when harvesting firewood, but it may come in handy for some simple work — cutting small boards (for example, from boxes), sawing off branches of small thickness, etc. Some files can also be used on materials that a conventional blade does not do well: plastic, rubber, thick ropes, etc. There are also tools for metal. Note that serrated sharpening (see "Blade type") is not considered a file.

— Wrench. Separate device for loosening and tightening nuts, bolts with faceted heads, etc. Knife-mounted wrenches are usually fixed sizes — an adjustable design would be too cumbersome. On the other hand, the special shape of the key allows you to work with several sizes of nuts.

— Pliers. Pliers are used to pinch and hold various objects. They are especially useful for those cases when the efforts of the fingers are not enough for this or it is impossible to touch the part with your hands at all (for example, if it is heated to a high temperature). In traditional knives, pliers are quite rare, but in multi-tools (see "Type") are often the main tool. Note that classic pliers with even jaws are almost never used today, usually pliers play their role — a universal tool that combines flat jaws, notches for gripping round parts, side cutters, a wire cutting device, and in some models — also needle nose pliers (see below).

— Nippers. A tool used for cutting (biting) hard materials, primarily metal wire; in addition, it can be used for other purposes, in particular for stripping wires. In modern products (primarily multitools), the so-called side cutters — a type of nippers in which the cutting edges are parallel to the handles. Side cutters are most often not a separate tool, but an integral part of the pliers; see "Pliers" above for details. Also note that some models provide several types of wire cutters — for example, separately for thin and thick wire.

— Pliers. In fact, it is a variation of the pliers described above, equipped with thin, tapered to the ends sponges. Such a tool will be useful for precision work, for which when ordinary pliers are too large, and tweezers do not provide the proper clamping force. Needle-nose pliers are practically never found as a separate device, most often they are made in the form of elongated jaws on regular pliers (for more details, see "Pliers" above).

— Stripper (removal of insulation). Special tool for stripping wires. Its design may be different, but anyway, it was originally designed to cut only the insulation without damaging the metal core. In this way, strippers compare favorably with other tools that are used in electrical work for the same purposes — in particular, from wire cutters.

— File. A traditional file is a tool whose working part looks like a notched surface. In modern knives, files are usually small, finely cut and, like many other full-size tools, are not designed for large-scale and rough work. Such a device can be useful, for example, for deburring or leveling small surfaces. Note that you should not confuse a file with a nail file (see below).

— Tweezers. Tweezers make it easier to work with small details that are difficult to hold in your fingers: its thin jaws allow you to securely hold even very small objects. To further simplify delicate work (in which even a relatively small knife handle can create inconvenience), tweezers are often made removable.

— Awl-sewing machine. The classic awl is a thick needle on the handle, but in knives the design of this tool is somewhat different. Most often, the awl was tetrahedral, somewhat expanding towards the base, vaguely resembling a very narrow and thick blade without sharpening. However, its purpose is no different from the traditional one: piercing holes in dense materials such as cardboard, leather, thin plastic or plywood, etc.

— Adapter for a bit. A device for installing bits — interchangeable working nozzles, which are actually different types of screwdrivers. In fact, the presence of this function turns the knife / multi-tool into a universal screwdriver: bits can have different sizes, be made flat, cross-shaped, tri- or hex, etc. Some models of knives / multi-tools are equipped with their own set of bits and can only work with them; others are compatible with standard screwdriver bits.

— Toothpick. Hygiene device for removing small particles of food stuck between the teeth. Usually it looks like a thin pointed stick and is made removable — picking your teeth while holding a knife handle is not only not very aesthetically pleasing, but simply inconvenient. With regular use, a toothpick should be disinfected periodically — after all, pockets, bags and other places where knives are stored are usually far from sterile.

— Nailfile. Despite the name, this tool is essentially not a file, but a file with a very fine notch, designed for processing nails during a manicure. The use of a file can include both the correction of nails after cutting, and regular filing, eliminating the need to use scissors or tweezers.

— Sling cutter. In modern knives, this term most often means the so-called "safe" sling cutter. It has the appearance of a characteristic hook — folding, removable or built-in (formed by a slot in the handle); with such a device, you can securely grab a sling, rope or belt, and inside the hook there is a sharpened edge, which ensures cutting. Thus, for use it is not necessary to open the main blade, and the probability of cutting oneself is practically reduced to zero. As the name suggests, the main purpose of line cutters is to quickly and safely cut parachute lines (for example, when they are tangled in the air or landing on a tree). In addition, it is convenient to cut seat belts with such a device, which can be a real salvation in an accident.

— Hook. The device in the form of a hook can have a different design and, accordingly, applications. So, in hunting and fishing knives (see "Type") it is made in the form of a characteristic "fang" on the butt of the blade; this fang can come in handy at some stages of butchering prey. In turn, in Swiss models (see ibid.), the hook is one of the folding tools, and here its scope is quite wide: such a device can, for example, tighten a knot, remove a hot pot from a fire, and even make it easier to carry a heavy object , hooking it on a hook and using the knife as a handle.

— Ruler. Your own ruler can be useful for measuring small segments and drawing straight lines — for example, when laying a route on a map or marking blanks for cutting. Folding rulers installed in knives are often made transparent for added convenience. Another option — a ruler in the form of markings on the handle — can be found in multitools.

— Broken glass. Glass breaking device. It usually looks like a small pin on the handle — even a not very strong blow with such a pin is almost guaranteed to break the glass. Rescue work is considered to be the main area of use of glass cullet — in particular, in case of car accidents, when the car door can jam and the window will be the only way out of it. However, there are also less “extreme” applications of this tool — for example, splitting pieces of ice or caked lumps of salt.

— Chisel. A joinery and carpentry tool, which is a rather thick blade, the cutting edge of which is located in the front, in width (and not in length, as in ordinary knives). Such a device is intended for sampling and cleaning recesses in wood, chamfering, etc. It is found mainly in Swiss models and multi-tools. The dimensions of the "knife" chisels are small, they are designed for small volumes of work.

— Magnifying glass. A small magnifying glass that can be used for various purposes. The classic option is to help with looking at small details: miniature objects, small print on maps, drawings, etc. This feature can be especially useful for people with vision problems. In addition, a magnifying glass can be used as a fire source by focus sunlight on a clear day. The term "glass" in this case is conditional, because. in knives, these devices are usually made of transparent plastic — it is not so fragile, and it weighs less.

— Needle (pin). The needle included in the knife tool kit is usually made removable, not folding. Usually, it does not have an eyelet and is not intended for classical sewing, but the length and thickness of such needles often allow them to be used not only for piercing various materials, but also for drawing lines on the surface (scratching).

Note that this is not the whole list of additional equipment found in modern knives and multitools. Manufacturers can equip their products with other devices, such as a crimp for wires, a carabiner for attaching to camping equipment, folding spoons and forks, and even completely exotic features, such as specialized tools for golfers.

The country of origin of the brand under which the knife is marketed. Usually, it is indicated by the "homeland" of the manufacturing company or by the location of its headquarters.

There are many stereotypes associated with the “nationality” of brands and products, but most of them have no basis nowadays. First, the actual place of production is often different from the brand's country of origin. Secondly, the quality of the goods depends not so much on geography, but on the policy of a particular company and how carefully this very quality is controlled in it. Therefore, you should pay attention to the country of origin of the brand only if you fundamentally want or (do not want) to support a manufacturer from a certain state. Quality is best judged by the reputation of a particular brand and the general price category. But still Swiss knives and American knives and multi-tools a> deserve respect. However, this is more of a reputation, German counterparts can be just as good. As well as Ukrainian.