Comparison Garmin Fenix 5S Plus Sapphire vs Garmin Fenix 5 Plus Sapphire

The time that the gadget can work on one battery charge (or the supplied battery) in normal use.

Normal mode, as a rule, means working with a relatively low load. At this time, the display can display some data, and basic functions can also work (counting steps, periodically checking heart rate, etc.), but in any case, power consumption is low. Therefore, the operating time in normal mode can be quite impressive, up to several weeks, or even months. However, when choosing, it doesn’t hurt to also pay attention to the stated time in active mode (see below) — especially if a long operating time is critical, or you plan to use the gadget intensively. The actual autonomy of the device will most likely be somewhere in between these two values, depending on the actual load. If only the time in normal mode is indicated for the gadget, you should choose with a certain reserve.

The time that the gadget is able to work on one charge of the battery in the active mode of use.

For watch-phones (see “Type”), this usually means a talk mode, for other gadgets, an intensive work mode when numerous features and sensors are used and there is a constant exchange of data with a smartphone/tablet. However, the specific understanding of the "active mode" for different manufacturers may vary: some indicate the time at maximum performance (that is, in fact, guaranteed battery life), others — in some kind of "average mode". However, anyway, this is a fairly clear parameter that describes the battery life of a particular model quite well (and is much closer to real indicators than the time in normal mode mentioned above).

Note that for models with a GPS sensor (see "Navigation"), the specifications may additionally specify the time of active operation using such a sensor. See "Operating time (GPS)" for details.

The time that the gadget is able to work on one charge of the battery (or supplied battery) when using a GPS sensor.

This parameter is specified mainly for high-end tourist watches designed for experienced travelers, military, rescuers, divers, pilots, etc. Such devices use advanced GPS receivers, which themselves can consume quite a significant amount of energy; in addition, the operation of the receiver is inevitably accompanied by the use of other features — transferring navigation data to another device (usually via Bluetooth), working with its own built-in maps, etc. Therefore, the battery life while using GPS turns out to be rather modest — it can be significantly less time in active and even less in normal mode (for both, see above).

We also remind that the battery life mentioned in specs is approximate — in fact it may differ (in one direction or another, depending on the use scenario). Nevertheless, it is quite possible to evaluate the actual capabilities of the watch and compare them with each other: the difference in the claimed battery life usually proportionally corresponds to the difference in practical battery life.

— Skin. Leather straps are typical for a business style, they look rich and respectable, however, they are quite expensive. On the practical side, this material is strong, reliable and resistant to moisture; at the same time, it is quite demanding to care for, and if the appropriate rules are not followed, cracks may appear on the strap.

— Rubber/silicone. Quite a popular material used not only for fitness trackers, but also for traditional watches. Rubber straps do not look as rich as leather ones, but they are also quite decent, while they are strong enough, durable, resistant to moisture and pleasantly felt on the hand. Silicone is similar in properties, which in appearance is practically indistinguishable from rubber. But the silicone is softer, does not pinch the hand and is more pleasant to the touch.

— Metal. Metal straps (bracelets) are mainly made of stainless steel, but there are other options. Anyway, bracelets are highly durable and can be both light and massive, depending on the composition of the metal. It is also worth mentioning the high thermal conductivity of this material. Such a bracelet pleasantly cools the hand in the warm season, but causes the opposite effect in the cold.

— Milanese bracelet. Metal bracelets made of links of very fine weaving (about 1 mm in size, or even less). The m...aterial of such a bracelet may be different; most often it is steel, but more expensive metals are also found. Anyway, such a bracelet has an original appearance, and also provides good air access, allowing the skin to breathe. Among the shortcomings of Milanese bracelet, it can be noted that the links can “bite” the hair on the arm, creating discomfort.

— Textile. Usually, strong dense fabric (like nylon-based CORDURA) is used for straps, resistant to moisture, ultraviolet and other adverse factors. For some users, this material is more pleasant than other options; however, for a number of technical reasons, fabric straps were not widely used.

Many models of wearable gadgets are available with several strap options to choose from.

The type of clasp used on a gadget's strap or bracelet.

The most common types of clasps today are the classic buckle, folding clip, folding lock, magnet, snap fastener, and Hook-and-loop. If several options are indicated in the specs at once, it means that the gadget is supplied or can be supplied with different strap options using different types of fasteners. Here is a detailed description of each type:

– Classic (with buckle). Clasp resembling a belt buckle; originally used in traditional wristwatches, but nowadays it has become widespread in smart gadgets. On one half of such a fastener there is a U-shaped or similar frame with a special pin, on the second — a row of holes. When fastening, the second half is threaded through the frame, and the pin is fixed in one of the holes. At the same time, by choosing a particular hole, you can adjust the size of the strap. In addition, the advantages of the classics are reliability, neat appearance and compatibility with many strap materials (with the exception of metal bracelets).

— Clip (unfolding). An option for metal bracelets. The most widespread type of clip, consisting of two curved plates connected by an axis. When unfastened, they open like a book, increasing the overall length of the bracelet and allowing you to easily r...emove the watch from your hand, and when fastened, they fold close to each other and are fixed, securing the bracelet on your wrist. Another, less popular variety is the “butterfly”, which has two flaps that, when opened, rise like wings. In general, the clips are very easy to use, but difficult to set up. They fasten and unfasten with literally one click, but it’s impossible to reconfigure the size of a bracelet with a clip “on the go” — you have to disconnect and reconnect special latches, which requires an additional tool and some skill.

— Magnetic. A fastener in which a strong permanent magnet plays the role of a latch. Such devices are simple and convenient both in use and in adjustment: for fastening and unfastening, it is enough to “stick” or “unstick” a magnet, and size adjustment is carried out right at the time of fastening — by tightening the strap to the desired length. The main disadvantage of such a clasp is that it can only be used with metal bracelets made of magnetic alloys — for example, steel.

— With lock. A clasp that resembles the buckle described above, but has a slightly different principle of operation. On one side of the strap with such a clasp there is a latch pin, on the other side there is a loop of a D-shaped or other shape, as well as a number of holes. When fastening, the side with the pin is threaded into the loop and then fixed in one of the holes; By choosing one or another hole, you can adjust the length of the strap. This design is especially suitable for rubber straps, it is simpler and at the same time more reliable than the buckle, which can also be used with such straps.

— Hook-and-loop. Classic hook-and-loop closure, used exclusively with fabric straps. Like magnetic clasps (see above), such clasps allow you to very accurately adjust the length of the strap right in the process of fastening. Among the disadvantages of Hook-and-loop, in addition to restrictions on the materials of the strap, it is worth noting the tendency to reduce reliability as it wears out. Therefore, nowadays, this type of fastener is quite rare, and is almost never used as the only one available — usually Hook-and-loop is supplemented with another option, for example, a latch.

— Folding lock. Clasp in the form of a detachable lock, the halves of which are on different halves of the bracelet. It is used with finely woven metal bracelets, the so-called "Milanese" ones; at the same time, one half is fixed motionless, and the second can move along its part of the bracelet — in this way the length is adjusted. A tool may be required for adjustment, but the procedure itself is simple — much easier than with clips. And the low prevalence of folding locks is mainly due to the fact that Milanese bracelets are rarely found in smart wearable gadgets.

The width of the stock watch strap or bracelet is implied. Usually, in each specific model taken, this value is limited by the size of the standard lugs. A wider strap than the lugs allow cannot be installed. But the strap of a smaller width is quite possible to use. Of course, you need to take into account that an overly thin strap with a large diameter watch will not look quite harmonious. Most often, the width of the strap is directly related to the diameter of the dial. As a standard, the width is calculated using the formula: ½ x D, where D is the diameter of the dial. That is, if the dial diameter is 40 mm, then the perfect strap width in this case is 20 mm.

Wrist coverage suitable for the included watch strap. Usually, the length of the strap can be adjusted, so this paragraph usually indicates not one number, but a range — for example, "130 – 200" (millimetres). If there are several straps in the kit, then several ranges are indicated in the specs, if necessary, with a clarification like “fabric: 115 – 185, metal: 130 – 220” (if the straps are made of different materials).

We emphasize that in this case we are talking not just about the length of the strap, but about the girth of the wrist, for which it is designed. Thus, by measuring your hand in an appropriate way, you can accurately determine whether a particular strap is suitable for a particular person or not. This possibility is especially important if the watch is bought for a user with a non-standard hand size — miniature or, conversely, very large.

The degree of protection against water according to the WR standard, which corresponds to the body of the gadget.

WR (Water Resistant) is a rather specific standard that was originally used in traditional wristwatches. It describes the static water pressure that the device can tolerate without consequences: for example, WR30M corresponds to a pressure at a depth of 30 m (i.e. 3 bar). However, the physical features of such measurements are such that this figure corresponds very poorly to the actual allowable immersion depth. For example, the mentioned WR30M level only provides protection against accidental splashes, while the WR50M allows you to endure maximum exposure to rain or running water when washing your hands. The lowest level that allows complete immersion under water is WR100M, but only to a minimum depth and without “extreme” like surfing or diving from a tower. And for more serious activities, like water sports or diving, you should pay attention to gadgets with water protection at the level of WR200M, and even WR300M.

In most cases, the weight of the watch body itself is indicated as the weight of the model, since the strap is removable and can be replaced with another one. However, there are also models when the weight is presented with an included strap. Anyway, if the manufacturer indicates a specific method of measuring weight (with or without a strap), we add this information.