Comparison Q-Sound M3 vs Havit HV-H1100

— TFT. The simplest type of liquid crystal panel used in colour displays. They provide a relatively low, but generally sufficient image quality, while they are much cheaper than more advanced options. This type does not require backlight — more precisely, the backlight is part of the screen itself and turns on with it. Of the unequivocal disadvantages, it is worth noting that many TFT panels have rather limited viewing angles; however, as technology improves, this drawback is gradually eliminated.

— IPS. A variety of LCD panels created in an attempt to eliminate the shortcomings of TFT. There are many subspecies of IPS panels, but they all feature high colour reproduction quality, excellent brightness and wide viewing angles. The disadvantage of this option is the relatively high cost.

— OLED. In this case, we mean the technology used to create the simplest monochrome displays. In such screens, each segment that makes up the image is a separate LED, which eliminates the need for external illumination (and even the display itself can be used as a flashlight).

— AMOLED. Screens based on a panel of active organic light emitting diodes. Similar to various types of TFT, this technology allows the creation of high-resolution colour displays. Its key feature is that the screen doe...s not require a separate backlight system — in AMOLED panels, each pixel glows independently, resulting in somewhat lower power consumption. At the same time, such screens are distinguished by good colour reproduction quality, excellent brightness and wide viewing angles, however, they are much more expensive than TFT.

— Super AMOLED. An enhanced version of the AMOLED technology described above, delivering more expansive colour reproduction and brightness, as well as improved touch accuracy and speed, all at a thinner display and lower power consumption. In addition, the degree of reflection of external light is reduced, such a panel gives less glare and is better visible in sunlight.

— E-Ink (E-Paper). Displays made using "electronic paper" technology; in addition, this category also includes screens such as Memory LCD. The classic E-Ink screen is black and white, does not have a backlight (however, it can be built into particular gadgets), has a very low refresh rate and is poorly suited even for stopwatches, not to mention videos or animated pictures. On the other hand, "electronic paper" is perfectly visible in bright light and has a very low power consumption: it requires electricity only when the image is changed, while a still image remains visible even when the power is completely turned off. Memory LCD screens, in turn, with the same advantages, are almost as good as classic LCD panels in terms of refresh rate, but for a number of reasons they are not widely used.

— Transflective. A specific type of LCD panels that can work both due to its own backlight and due to reflected light. In bright external light (for example, in the sun), such a screen effectively reflects it and does not require a separate backlight — however, it is still included in the design and turns on in low light. This type of operation can significantly reduce power consumption compared to traditional LCD screens, where the image is not visible without backlight; in addition, good visibility in bright light is also an important advantage. The main disadvantage of panels of this type is their high cost; in addition, they are made mostly monochrome.

- LTPO. OLED and AMOLED matrices with an adaptive refresh rate that varies over a wide range based on the tasks performed. When rendering dynamic frames, screens with LTPO technology automatically raise the refresh rate to the maximum values, while viewing static images, they automatically reduce it to the minimum. At the heart of the technology is a traditional LTPS substrate with a thin TFT oxide film on top of the TFT base. Dynamic control of the refresh rate is provided by controlling the electron flow. The key benefit of LTPO screens is their reduced power consumption.

Screen size in dots (pixels) horizontally and vertically. In general, this is one of the indicators that determine the image quality: the higher the resolution, the clearer and smoother the picture on the screen (with the same size), the less noticeable are the individual dots. On the other hand, an increase in the number of pixels affects the cost of displays, their power consumption and requirements for a hardware platform (more powerful hardware is required, which itself will cost more). In addition, the specifics of using smartwatches is such that there is simply no need to install high-resolution screens in them. Therefore, modern wrist accessories use displays with a relatively low resolution: for example, 320x320 with a size of about 1.6" is considered quite sufficient even for premium watches.

The density of dots on the screen of the gadget, namely, the number of pixels that are on each inch of the panel vertically or horizontally.

The higher the PPI, the higher the detail of the screen, the clearer and smoother the image is. On the other hand, this indicator affects the price accordingly. Therefore, the higher the density of points, the more advanced, usually, this gadget is in terms of general capabilities. However, when choosing a screen, manufacturers take into account the general purpose and functionality of the device; so that even a small number of PPIs usually does not interfere with comfortable use.

The material from which the transparent cover of the display is made.

— Plastic. Inexpensive, moreover, quite durable and impact-resistant material: even with a strong impact, the plastic is more likely to crack than crumble into fragments. At the same time, scratches easily appear on such a surface, and over time it inevitably becomes cloudy. Because of this, plastic is found predominantly in inexpensive wearable gadgets.

— Glass. In this case, it can mean both classic silicate glass (the same as, for example, in windows), and some original types of impact-resistant glass that are not related to Gorilla Glass(see below). Regular glass costs more than plastic, but not by much, and it looks better and stays clear longer due to its scratch resistance. The main disadvantages of this material are fragility and a tendency to crumble into sharp fragments upon impact. Impact-resistant glass types are devoid of this drawback to one degree or another, but they are also more expensive. According to the price category of the gadget, you can quite accurately determine what kind of glass it uses — ordinary or shock-resistant.

— Sapphire. The coating made of synthetic sapphire is used exclusively in premium-class gadgets — this is due to the complexity of its production and, accordingly, the high cost. On the practical s...ide, sapphire is extremely scratch resistant (it is only possible to scratch such glass with a diamond or special tools), but at the same time it is fragile and easily breaks from impact.

— Gorilla glass. A family of shock-resistant glass types created by Corning and widely used in modern electronics, including wearable gadgets. In addition to strength, Gorilla Glass is also distinguished by good scratch resistance, while being relatively inexpensive (by the standards of such a coating), which has led to their popularity. However, the specific properties of such glass depend on its version; Here are the options that are relevant for modern wearable devices:

• Gorilla Glass v3. The oldest current version was released in 2013. Nevertheless, even such a coating is noticeably superior to traditional glass (not to mention plastic) in terms of transparency and scratch resistance.
• Gorilla Glass v4. Version released in 2014. A key feature was that the development of this coating focused on impact resistance (whereas previous generations focused mainly on scratch resistance). As a result, the glass turned out to be twice as strong as in version 3, despite the fact that its thickness was only 0.4 mm.
• Gorilla Glass SR+. The first version of Gorilla Glass, designed specifically for smartwatches and other miniature wearable gadgets; presented in 2016. According to the creators, the scratch resistance of such coatings approaches those of sapphire glass while maintaining the main advantages of Gorilla Glass — high strength and transparency. In general, for this material, superiority over "alternative options" is claimed by 70% in terms of strength specs and by 25% in terms of optical properties.
• Gorilla Glass DX. Another type of glass, specially designed for wearable devices. It was released in 2018 at the same time as the DX+ version (see below). Of the key improvements in Gorilla Glass DX, in particular, increased anti-reflective properties and an increase in the contrast level of the visible image by 50% are announced; the latter, among other things, allows you to reduce the actual brightness and, accordingly, the power consumption of screens without compromising image quality, which is especially important for miniature wearable devices. And this material differs from the DX+ type coating, on the one hand, by lower scratch resistance, and, on the other hand, by higher anti-reflective specs.
• Gorilla Glass DX+. Almost the same as the original version of DX, related to the same specialization — wearable wearable gadgets and other miniature devices. At the same time, DX + has a higher scratch resistance, but has slightly worse anti-reflective specs. Otherwise, these types of coverage are almost identical.

The capacity of the battery that is installed in the gadget.

Theoretically, the higher the capacity, the longer the battery can work on a single charge. However, in fact, the battery life of the gadget also depends on its power consumption, and it is determined by the specs of the display and the hardware. Therefore, only models of the same type with very similar specs can be compared in terms of battery capacity; and for an accurate assessment of battery life, it is better to focus on the directly claimed operating time in one mode or another (see below).

It is also worth mentioning that high-capacity batteries inevitably turn out to be quite heavy and bulky. So the capacity of batteries installed in wearable gadgets is also greatly limited by size and weight.

The time that the gadget can work on one battery charge (or the supplied battery) in normal use.

Normal mode, as a rule, means working with a relatively low load. At this time, the display can display some data, and basic functions can also work (counting steps, periodically checking heart rate, etc.), but in any case, power consumption is low. Therefore, the operating time in normal mode can be quite impressive, up to several weeks, or even months. However, when choosing, it doesn’t hurt to also pay attention to the stated time in active mode (see below) — especially if a long operating time is critical, or you plan to use the gadget intensively. The actual autonomy of the device will most likely be somewhere in between these two values, depending on the actual load. If only the time in normal mode is indicated for the gadget, you should choose with a certain reserve.

The time that the gadget is able to work on one charge of the battery in the active mode of use.

For watch-phones (see “Type”), this usually means a talk mode, for other gadgets, an intensive work mode when numerous features and sensors are used and there is a constant exchange of data with a smartphone/tablet. However, the specific understanding of the "active mode" for different manufacturers may vary: some indicate the time at maximum performance (that is, in fact, guaranteed battery life), others — in some kind of "average mode". However, anyway, this is a fairly clear parameter that describes the battery life of a particular model quite well (and is much closer to real indicators than the time in normal mode mentioned above).

Note that for models with a GPS sensor (see "Navigation"), the specifications may additionally specify the time of active operation using such a sensor. See "Operating time (GPS)" for details.

The type of clasp used on a gadget's strap or bracelet.

The most common types of clasps today are the classic buckle, folding clip, folding lock, magnet, snap fastener, and Hook-and-loop. If several options are indicated in the specs at once, it means that the gadget is supplied or can be supplied with different strap options using different types of fasteners. Here is a detailed description of each type:

– Classic (with buckle). Clasp resembling a belt buckle; originally used in traditional wristwatches, but nowadays it has become widespread in smart gadgets. On one half of such a fastener there is a U-shaped or similar frame with a special pin, on the second — a row of holes. When fastening, the second half is threaded through the frame, and the pin is fixed in one of the holes. At the same time, by choosing a particular hole, you can adjust the size of the strap. In addition, the advantages of the classics are reliability, neat appearance and compatibility with many strap materials (with the exception of metal bracelets).

— Clip (unfolding). An option for metal bracelets. The most widespread type of clip, consisting of two curved plates connected by an axis. When unfastened, they open like a book, increasing the overall length of the bracelet and allowing you to easily r...emove the watch from your hand, and when fastened, they fold close to each other and are fixed, securing the bracelet on your wrist. Another, less popular variety is the “butterfly”, which has two flaps that, when opened, rise like wings. In general, the clips are very easy to use, but difficult to set up. They fasten and unfasten with literally one click, but it’s impossible to reconfigure the size of a bracelet with a clip “on the go” — you have to disconnect and reconnect special latches, which requires an additional tool and some skill.

— Magnetic. A fastener in which a strong permanent magnet plays the role of a latch. Such devices are simple and convenient both in use and in adjustment: for fastening and unfastening, it is enough to “stick” or “unstick” a magnet, and size adjustment is carried out right at the time of fastening — by tightening the strap to the desired length. The main disadvantage of such a clasp is that it can only be used with metal bracelets made of magnetic alloys — for example, steel.

— With lock. A clasp that resembles the buckle described above, but has a slightly different principle of operation. On one side of the strap with such a clasp there is a latch pin, on the other side there is a loop of a D-shaped or other shape, as well as a number of holes. When fastening, the side with the pin is threaded into the loop and then fixed in one of the holes; By choosing one or another hole, you can adjust the length of the strap. This design is especially suitable for rubber straps, it is simpler and at the same time more reliable than the buckle, which can also be used with such straps.

— Hook-and-loop. Classic hook-and-loop closure, used exclusively with fabric straps. Like magnetic clasps (see above), such clasps allow you to very accurately adjust the length of the strap right in the process of fastening. Among the disadvantages of Hook-and-loop, in addition to restrictions on the materials of the strap, it is worth noting the tendency to reduce reliability as it wears out. Therefore, nowadays, this type of fastener is quite rare, and is almost never used as the only one available — usually Hook-and-loop is supplemented with another option, for example, a latch.

— Folding lock. Clasp in the form of a detachable lock, the halves of which are on different halves of the bracelet. It is used with finely woven metal bracelets, the so-called "Milanese" ones; at the same time, one half is fixed motionless, and the second can move along its part of the bracelet — in this way the length is adjusted. A tool may be required for adjustment, but the procedure itself is simple — much easier than with clips. And the low prevalence of folding locks is mainly due to the fact that Milanese bracelets are rarely found in smart wearable gadgets.

The level of dust and water protection according to the IP standard, which the gadget corresponds to.

This parameter is usually denoted by the letters IP followed by two characters ( IP55, IP56, IP57, IP65, IP66, IP67, IP68, IP69) — for example, IP68. The numbers indicate the specific degree of protection: the first — dust resistance, the second — water resistance. Instead of one of the numbers, there may be the letter X ( IPX5, IPX7, IPX8) — this means there is no certification for this indicator: for example, an IPX7 device has a moisture resistance of 7, but has not been tested for dust protection. However, a high degree of protection against water automatically means good dust resistance.

Here are the levels of dust protection (first digit) found in modern wearable gadgets:

5 — dust resistance. Some dust may get inside, but it does not affect the operation of the device. There is no point in specifying lower levels, as they do not provide protection against dust.
6 — full dustproof (dust ingress is completely excluded).

The second digit describes the r...esistance to moisture, here the options can be as follows:

4 — resistance to water splashes from any direction. It is considered the minimum level of water protection, which makes sense to indicate in the specs: in particular, it allows you to endure exposure to rain without consequences.
5 — resistance to water jets from any direction. This level allows you to endure heavy rain and makes it possible to at least calmly wash your hands without removing the gadget.
6 — protection against strong water jets and impacts of sea waves. It is undesirable to completely submerge such a gadget under water, but it can be used even in a strong storm and not removed during the shower.
7 — the possibility of short-term immersion under water to a shallow depth (up to 1 m), without constant operation in immersed mode. With such a device, usually, you can even swim — but for a very short time (several minutes) and without diving. However, it is worth noting that not every gadget with this level of protection normally tolerates water jets (that is, compliance with level 7 does not necessarily mean compliance with lower levels 5 and 6).
8 — the possibility of a long (more than 30 minutes) stay under water at a great depth (more than 1 m), using in submerged mode. The specific limit of depth and time may be different, it should be specified separately; there are both gadgets with basic capabilities that allow you to dive a couple of metres, and diving models with an allowable depth of several tens of metres. Similar to level 7, water jet resistance is not guaranteed in this case.
9 - the possibility of almost unlimited time spent under water when diving to a certain depth, using the device in submerged mode. Level 9 also guarantees resistance to hot water under strong pressure - wrist gadgets with this level of dust and moisture protection can withstand high-temperature water jets under pressure.